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Can a 9V wall wart power supply produce +/-9V? - Page 2

post #16 of 18
Thread Starter 

Just an update, I have changed the opamps from three JRC5532 chips to two OPA2107AP and one LM4562NA as buffer. It seems to have improved, especially the muddiness. I also upgraded the two 470uf @ 25V caps to 2200uf @ 25V caps. The pop sound when turning on the amp is not as bad now, which means I can keep the headphone plugged in instead of putting it in each time I use it. The bigger caps also retain the current for longer resulting in the amp working for a second or two after I have switched it off. The LED light would be still on until 10 seconds later.

 

I got a $3.5 multimeter from eBay a while back, but it didn't work at all. Luckily, I got a refund. Then I proceeded to buy a $7 one (BEST A830L to be eact) from DinoDirect, which arrived at the post office today. Since I picked it up, I have been playing with it on my amp. It's so fun!

 

I tested the voltage of the wallwart supply. It's 11.5 VAC despite rated at 9VAC. The voltage at the regulators is about 13.6 VDC with a dropout of around 4.65 VDC, so the output voltages are +8.9V and -9V.

 

I believe I can safely use 12V regulators at this point in time, and I will report back how it turns out after the final mod.

 

No before photo, but a after photo here for you.

IMG_6199.jpg

 


Edited by kingpage - 6/9/11 at 2:53am
post #17 of 18

Most regulator chips need a few volts across them to work properly. Your cutting it awful close with a 12V reg on a 13.5V supply. If you just want more voltage for the sake of more voltage (have never ran amp into rails, or have stability issues you suspect are from inadequate PS voltages) I would not mess with a good thing. 

 

When you measured the voltages did you do it with a realistic load on the wall-wart? There are some some regulator chips specified to work with voltage drops as low as 1.5V, but if that 13.5V sags to 13V under load you have no hope. 

post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 

With the new 12V regulators, the positive one is outputing 11.87V while the negative one is outputing 12.22V. The input is around 14.1V each, split perfectly. There doesn't seem to be any issue with the amp after the change.

 

Update:I'm selling these for more headphone upgrade funds.


Edited by kingpage - 11/11/11 at 2:34pm
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