But I would like to be wrong.
- 5,928 Posts. Joined 11/2006
- Location: China
- Select All Posts By This User
But I would like to be wrong.
Yes. It is a difficult one. I cant imagine that it would be all that difficult for Apple to implement a change to 24/96. If it is like their Match function within iCloud it would mean that if you link to cloud then any of your music would be upgraded to hires even if your originals were only lower quality.
The ability to play higher res was part of the reason why I picked the CLAS over the Fostex.
As to how long I need to hang out for this dream....who knows???
One major difference is that the CLAS reclocks the signal, while your external DAC may or may not do that.
Not all USB DACs work with the CCK, by the way.
Well after reading through this thread I suppose this will be a minority opinion, but here goes :
I have the CLAS with a well burnt in SR 71A with Tysonics I am playing back uncompressed files from my iPhone 4s that are mixes and masters that i have personally mixed (am an engineer) in a commercial studio as well as some apple lossless commercial releases and am listening back on edition 8's, Akg 701s (recalled by moon) and some UE 11 pros. My conclusion is that the Solo does not really add that much to my ears. When I plug either of these cans directly into the iPhone 4s at the same volume levels, I am even questioning my need for the SR 71A -- I like the SR71A for the power and drive and it does have a nice sheen and tightness in the low end, especially through the UE11pros but that really only becomes evident to me at the moderate to louder volumes. A/B ing over and over again with the Solo, I am just not hearing its contribution. One thing I have not tried is with mp3s - but with pristine audio coming off the iPhone 4s going through what i think are all very nice cans, i am struggling to understand why i have the solo and even what the benefit of carrying the whole rig really is. Thoughts ? poor component match ? Should i try something different ?
I don't have the SR-71A but have the SR-71B instead. As with you I also have the Ed8's & CLAS.
At least to me, I find the SR-71B to be somewhat dark. When I switch to my Pico Slim I find I can hear the details better. Note I'm not confusing Pico Slim's more "brightness" to "detail" here as I used to have the HP-P1 too and would A/B the HP-P1 <-> CLAS but keeping the same Pico Slim & Ed8 in the chain. To me the CLAS was more clinical whereas the HP-P1 was a tad darker.
Do you have any other portable amps to try with the CLAS?
I too am not surprised if there isn't great synergy between the CLAS and an RSA amp. (Full disclosure: I don't greatly like RSA portable amps - an opinion restricted to the single-ended ones which is all that I have heard.) The Wolfsen DAC is inherently warmer and more organic than an iPod. RSA amps attempt a similar warming of an iPod's sound. It is the famous RSA house sound. It could be a poor match with the CLAS. The CLAS is a good match with a more neutral amp like the Stepdance.
How do you know if it reclocks it? I have an Audio GD ref 5.
I finally got around to "funch-ing" my Solo today. I've joined the two cell club... Flying tomorrow and the only battery I'll need to worry about on the trip is the iPod Classic.
The install is as easy as it looks. I didn't remove the double sided tape from the stock battery, I just fit the new one on top without adding any double sided tape to it. It's VERY tight going back in, but if you go gently it will slide in there without any undue force and everything ends up snug as bug.
I received the new (second) battery today, and installed it.
Before I started, I charged each battery individually on the board, then after they were both hooked up,
I plugged the charger back in to verify that the charging circuit still worked. It took a while to get the pulsing
light, but it seems to work fine.
Here are some pix:
The two parallel battery sockets.
The stock battery is held on by some gooey double sided tape. It must be removed to provide
the room for the second battery, so I used a thin-bladed knife to cut it in half. It's very sticky,
so don't try to simply pry it off, or you could end up with a two-piece PCB.
I used my thumbnails to remove the tape from the battery, then reinstalled it.
I used some double-sided Scotch tape between the two batteries.
The board is ready to be reinstalled.
As you can see, there's barely enough room for the two together.
The Mouser label with part number.