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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 523  

post #7831 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

 

I like the SELs. I grabbed them when they were going for around $40 a pair. They were the flavour of the week here in this thread at the time. If you go back you can find the recommendations from HK... I think it was. Their good, a hair wanting in the bottom end but otherwise very very clean. I think I gave them a 100hrs before a good listen.

 

I'll give the Voshkods another run after another hundred hours on them.  I'm going to solder together a dummy headphone load tonight so I can run the tubes without noise or potential headphone damage.  If the tube burn-in is tied to the output level (which no one has been able to confirm) I can crank the amp up more - so long as the 1/2 watt of resistance doesn't start to run away and bad things happen(TM).

 

Got some time before I head to to work tonight! Time to fire up the glass...


I just use my Sony Noise Cancelers during breakin, I turn it up to listening levels.  I'm swapping a pair of my 1980 silvers for a pr of SELs, so I'll give them a listen.

 

My 1979 Voshkods have fully broken in now - they are better then the 1980, which beat the 1983s, which beat the 1992s.  The 1979 have a bit more liquidity in the mids.  I have 1975s and some 1967 Reflectors with saucer getters on the way...and now the SELs!  Oh what tube swapping fun!

post #7832 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Thanks,

 

Yes.  MOSFET


For regulation?

post #7833 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

 

 "Babe I'm gonna leave you"

 

 

You mean "Babe, I'm gonna leebe you".

 

LOL

post #7834 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by rb2013 View Post


For regulation?

 

 

The AMP was designed by Tom Christiansen,  he's a Sr design engineer for TI that happens to love tube amps.

The big thing with his unit is power regulation.  

 

The board with the MOSFET attached to the heat sink is the "Maida" high voltage regulator.

The stack of 3 small square boards are 6.3V and 5V filament regulators.

 

Here's a link to his web site.  All the schematics and BOM's are there.

He just sells the boards for $165

 

 

EDIT:

 

I'm just an idiot with a soldering iron.


Edited by sceleratus - 6/20/13 at 7:13pm
post #7835 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_sends View Post

For those still looking out for Lorenz tubes, Tubemonger informed me there is a set of used grey-shield Stuttgart Lorenz PCC88s for auction on ebay here:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-PCC88-7DJ8-ECC88-6DJ8-SUBS-VINTAGE-LORENZ-STRONG-/190858455235?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2c700ce8c3

 

FWIW, the grey shield Lorenz are the best of the "two-mica" tubes and are almost as good as the 3-mica.

 

Disclaimer:  Neither TubeMonger nor I are associated with the seller in any way.

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

 

Aye... Those are going to climb in price no doubt. Also my PCC88 saved search didn't find those for me. Weird.

post #7836 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTechAgent View Post

How well does this stack up with the 650.

I am looking for a amp  my budget is about 1500 for a amp/dac  combination.

I still think the wa2 ( My current option) with the MS II is a no brainer but saving some money with the lyr and bitfrost ( If that is right ) would also be a good option , also I have heard that the lyr is good with orthos too. I want bass and vocals out the 650's which the wa2 provice also the 6se makes it faster and probably solves the famous rolling off.

Thanks :)


Well I have a Woo WA6-SE tricked out ot the max (recapped) NOS Mullard 1957 Rec, NOS Nationals 6EM7 with Woo custom adapters (highly recommended).  Went through every 5u4G/GZ rec tube I could find, same goes for the drivers.  After some tube rolling I really like the Lyr - very lively with excellent tonality and sound stage.  I think after some mods, I'll sell the Woo.  The woo is very liquid in the mids, has awesome bass and sound stage, but is a bit boring in the dynamics department (marco and micro).

 

Now you were looking at the WA-2, a bit different.  Go to this link http://wooaudio.com/docs/wooaudio_amplifier_comparisons.pdf

 

The chart shows the differences between the Woos - the WA6-SE is rated better then the WA2, it also has WAY more grunt.  2000mW@32 ohms vs the WA-2 at 310mW@32 ohms.

If you're going the Ortho route - definitely get the WA6-SE - or a WA-22 - but now your talking way, way more money!  The Lyr will set the Orthos on fire (well almost literally!)

 

Good Luck!

post #7837 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanlitun View Post

 

They sounded very hot and distorted in the midrange initially but I think they are beginning to even out into something special. I had my doubts about these tubes as I had heard Brimar was often rebranding tubes, but for the price I paid they are a steal.

 

The vintage 6N1P's I got along with these are amazing as well. I think if you get lucky with a good pair of Russian tubes you could quite possibly endgame with your Lyr. 

 

I'm beginning to think I am close to the end of the road here.

Any time you 'get lucky', it's a good thing :-)

post #7838 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

 

The AMP was designed by Tom Christiansen,  he's a Sr design engineer for TI that happens to love tube amps.

The big thing with his unit is power regulation.  

 

The board with the MOSFET attached to the heat sink is the "Maida" high voltage regulator.

The stack of 3 small square boards are 6.3V and 5V filament regulators.

 

Here's a link to his web site.  All the schematics and BOM's are there.

He just sells the boards for $165

 

 

EDIT:

 

I'm just an idiot with a soldering iron.


Yowzer!  Nice!!   I whole heartily agree on the importance of excellent power regulation.  I'll check out the website.  about how much was the rest?

post #7839 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

 

EDIT:

 

I'm just an idiot with a soldering iron.

 

400V in there. Be careful. This isn't a build for _total_ idiots ;-)

post #7840 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by rb2013 View Post


Yowzer!  Nice!!   I whole heartily agree on the importance of excellent power regulation.  I'll check out the website.  about how much was the rest?

 

+1 and +?

post #7841 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

 

400V in there. Be careful. This isn't a build for _total_ idiots ;-)

Oh Ya.... At the moment it's a death trap.

 

I have a very bad habit of dropping my pinky when I'm holding DMM probes.... It never mattered before.... Guess where my pinky landed?   TWICE !

 

It matters.

post #7842 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Oh Ya.... At the moment it's a death trap.

 

I have a very bad habit of dropping my pinky when I'm holding DMM probes.... It never mattered before.... Guess where my pinky landed?   TWICE !

 

It matters.

 

Yeah. I highly recommend you work on it while fully awake.

post #7843 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

 

+1 and +?

 

It's not a project where you're going to save dough by building it yourself.  The cost for the challenge and resulting satisfaction is steep.

What a crap shoot...!.   I'm pleased now.

 

Tomorrow I'm off to the water cutters. 

 

post #7844 of 8735

6 inches to the right is the volume control and HP jack.

Easy to forget about those little solder bumps.eek.gif

post #7845 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

Where?

 

On the tube on the right.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_sends View Post

Late 1950s onwards - Philips/Mullard and tubes from associated Philips factories worldwide always have etched date codes on side of the glass. Codes may be faint or hard to see. Good light and magnifying glass helps.

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