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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 472  

post #7066 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by toschek View Post

Bifrost owners who would like to swap out the analog board themselves (aka "Uber"), here is a pictorial guide to get you going:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/661444/schiit-bifrost-uber-analog-upgrade/15#post_9405695

I'd like to add a little something for folks that don't often take equipment apart and don't like screwdrivers.   Many probably know this but it might help someone that's never done this.  It's a couple tips for removing and replacing fasteners.

 

1) When removing a philips head fastener, it is very important to have the correct size screwdriver.  The worst case is too small a bit that will strip the cross slots.

Use the largest bit that will fit in the slot.

 

2) Push straight down on the fastener and "crack" it loose.  "Lefty - Loosen"  "Righty - Tightly"  I like screwdrivers like the one pictured, because the red-head of the handle turns while pushing down from the palm.  The Bifrost screws seem to have a  bit of lock-tite type of compound so they will stick a bit when removing them.  Apply downward pressure most of the time you are backing out the fastener.

 

3) When reinserting the fasteners don't completely tighten one fastener and move to the next.  Instead just "start" all the fasteners on the side you are working on.   Once they are all started half way, move around and snug each one up.  You are not building a race car, snug is just fine. This procedure helps to ensure that all the holes line up.   Pay special attention to the fastener when starting it in the hole.  It should go in smoothly.  If not, Stop, remove the fastener and start again.  You don't want to cross thread the holes.  This is a "feel" thing.  If it feels wrong, it's wrong.

 

 

post #7067 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

I'd like to add a little something for folks that don't often take equipment apart and don't like screwdrivers.   Many probably know this but it might help someone that's never done this.  It's a couple tips for removing and replacing fasteners.

 

1) When removing a philips head fastener, it is very important to have the correct size screwdriver.  The worst case is too small a bit that will strip the cross slots.

Use the largest bit that will fit in the slot.

 

2) Push straight down on the fastener and "crack" it loose.  "Lefty - Loosen"  "Righty - Tightly"  I like screwdrivers like the one pictured, because the red-head of the handle turns while pushing down from the palm.  The Bifrost screws seem to have a  bit of lock-tite type of compound so they will stick a bit when removing them.  Apply downward pressure most of the time you are backing out the fastener.

 

3) When reinserting the fasteners don't completely tighten one fastener and move to the next.  Instead just "start" all the fasteners on the side you are working on.   Once they are all started half way, move around and snug each one up.  You are not building a race car, snug is just fine. This procedure helps to ensure that all the holes line up.   Pay special attention to the fastener when starting it in the hole.  It should go in smoothly.  If not, Stop, remove the fastener and start again.  You don't want to cross thread the holes.  This is a "feel" thing.  If it feels wrong, it's wrong.

 

 

 

 

Good advice!

post #7068 of 8735

To the non-USA folks with 230V power and a 115V Bifrost.

WARNING... DANGER...DANGER.

Consult with a knowledgeable person before reading further.

 

Whilst installing my Uber upgrade in my Bifrost, I looked at the transformer and PCB board and

noticed that the transformer is Dual Voltage. I went to the manufacturer's web site and confirmed

that the transformer model number in my Bifrost was dual voltage.  The AC receptacle is as well.

115VAC and 230VAC

 

It "APPEARS" to be a simple matter of removing 2 jumpers and installing a a single jumper to convert it to 230V.

This wire the primaries in Series rather than Parallel.

 

If this is interesting, I'd be happy to open up my Lyr and take a look.

If you were desperate enough to try this upgrade the fuse.

 

 

post #7069 of 8735

Installation notes on the Bifrost Uber Upgrade.

 

Fastener Removal.

 

1)  Remove all the "perimeter" fasteners first.  Top and bottom. Do not remove the fasteners in the bottom center.  They secure the PCB board to the chassis and you don't want it rattling around.

2) Next remove the 4 black fasteners in the back of the unit.  The two halves of the enclosure can be separated.

3) Now remove the center fasteners on the bottom of the chassis.  The board will slide out.

4)   ***** Be very careful of the 3 front indicator LED's they are vulnerable.

 

Reseating the LED

5) When you have swapped daughter cards and secured the top card here is how I was able to get the LED's back into their tiny holes.

Gently slide the board in and put in the bottom center, rear fastener.  This will hold the board in the correct place. Position the enclosure face down on edge.

6) Working from the side.... To seat the LED's use needle nose pliers or sturdy tweezers. The leads bend.  You can slide and center the LED's.  To seat them securely it may be necessary to "pull" them down into the holed.  The leads are pliable and gentle positioning with tweezers will not hurts them. 

7) Finish securing the PCB to the chassis before putting the enclosure together.   NOTE:  There are 2 different sizes of fasteners. (Besides the black ones in the rear)

 

There are 5 long stainless steel fasteners and 10 short stubby ones.  Use the 5 long fasteners in the bottom center holes to secure the PCB board to the enclosure.  Use the 10 short ones to fasten the case halves.


Edited by sceleratus - 5/4/13 at 9:43pm
post #7070 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Installation notes on the Bifrost Uber Upgrade.

 

Fastener Removal.

 

1)  Remove all the "perimeter" fasteners first.  Top and bottom. Do not remove the fasteners in the bottom center.  They secure the PCB board to the chassis and you don't want it rattling around.

2) Next remove the 4 black fasteners in the back of the unit.  The two halves of the enclosure can be separated.

3) Now remove the center fasteners on the bottom of the chassis.  The board will slide out.

4)   ***** Be very careful of the 3 front indicator LED's they are vulnerable.

 

Reseating the LED

5) When you have swapped daughter cards and secured the top card here is how I was able to get the LED's back into their tiny holes.

Gently slide the board in and put in the bottom center, rear fastener.  This will hold the board in the correct place. Position the enclosure face down on edge.

6) Working from the side.... To seat the LED's use needle nose pliers or sturdy tweezers. The leads bend.  You can slide and center the LED's.  To seat them securely it may be necessary to "pull" them down into the holed.  The leads are pliable and gentle positioning with tweezers will not hurts them. 

7) Finish securing the PCB to the chassis before putting the enclosure together.   NOTE:  There are 2 different sizes of fasteners. (Besides the black ones in the rear)

 

There are 5 long stainless steel fasteners and 10 short stubby ones.  Use the 5 long fasteners in the bottom center holes to secure the PCB board to the enclosure.  Use the 10 short ones to fasten the case halves.

 

 

The leads connecting those LEDs will bend easily.  By gentle, be methodical.  Don't panic, and don't be in a hurry either.  

 

This part of the process is a pain in the ass, but it's really not complicated.  

 

The most important thing is to just stay as relaxed as possible.  If you feel your shoulders and neck muscles start to tighten, just walk away and breathe for a few moments.

post #7071 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Installation notes on the Bifrost Uber Upgrade.

 

Fastener Removal.

 

1)  Remove all the "perimeter" fasteners first.  Top and bottom. Do not remove the fasteners in the bottom center.  They secure the PCB board to the chassis and you don't want it rattling around.

2) Next remove the 4 black fasteners in the back of the unit.  The two halves of the enclosure can be separated.

3) Now remove the center fasteners on the bottom of the chassis.  The board will slide out.

4)   ***** Be very careful of the 3 front indicator LED's they are vulnerable.

 

Reseating the LED

5) When you have swapped daughter cards and secured the top card here is how I was able to get the LED's back into their tiny holes.

Gently slide the board in and put in the bottom center, rear fastener.  This will hold the board in the correct place. Position the enclosure face down on edge.

6) Working from the side.... To seat the LED's use needle nose pliers or sturdy tweezers. The leads bend.  You can slide and center the LED's.  To seat them securely it may be necessary to "pull" them down into the holed.  The leads are pliable and gentle positioning with tweezers will not hurts them. 

7) Finish securing the PCB to the chassis before putting the enclosure together.   NOTE:  There are 2 different sizes of fasteners. (Besides the black ones in the rear)

 

There are 5 long stainless steel fasteners and 10 short stubby ones.  Use the 5 long fasteners in the bottom center holes to secure the PCB board to the enclosure.  Use the 10 short ones to fasten the case halves.

Excellent write up!  This is exactly the procedure I followed.

post #7072 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelamvr6 View Post

Excellent write up!  This is exactly the procedure I followed.

Thank you.

I appreciate that.

 

Boys n' Girls.  About the "Uber Upgrade"

 

Freak'n amazing !

It made my lesser favorite glass sound beautiful.

So much so, I decided not to sell (for now) a couple sets that I had listed.

 

Who woulda' thunk?

post #7073 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Thank you.

I appreciate that.

 

Boys n' Girls.  About the "Uber Upgrade"

 

Freak'n amazing !

It made my lesser favorite glass sound beautiful.

So much so, I decided not to sell (for now) a couple sets that I had listed.

 

Who woulda' thunk?


start saving money for upgrade?

post #7074 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmahler2u View Post


start saving money for upgrade?

Yes, I strongly suggest...

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

post #7075 of 8735

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n4WVRKkmww&feature=youtu.be

 

 

I went from the ge stock tubes to electro harmonix 6922 to new genalex gold lion. the new gold lion e88cc are great tubes. got them at tube depot. 126 bucks for a pair shipped at my door in Canada.

 

hope you enjoy the video. lot of skills required to make a tube and love the comments of the idiot bashing tube amps.

post #7076 of 8735
Quote:
Those Amperex tubes sure are varied, couldn't they settle on one design?

 

Continual improvement process: better product / cheaper to make. Besides, Philips (and Mullard) made gazillions of them; there must have been a need to retool every now and then anyway.

post #7077 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Thank you.

I appreciate that.

 

Boys n' Girls.  About the "Uber Upgrade"

 

Freak'n amazing !

It made my lesser favorite glass sound beautiful.

So much so, I decided not to sell (for now) a couple sets that I had listed.

 

Who woulda' thunk?

 

Source counts for a lot. I found out the same thing with a better DAC recently. The sound signature is just that. I previously didn't like some Tubes, and liked others, but it turns out I was just using them to cover up the DAC's output. The Lyr has a lot to offer if you have a better DAC on it. The original Bifrost is decent DAC, but nowhere near fantastic.

post #7078 of 8735

oh boy has it been a while since i've posted on this thread. I look back to when my first set up was the fiio e7/e9 combo and i thought to myself about how ugly the thing sounds after switching to the lyr/bifrost combo. It made me realize it sounds so much better.

PS. anyone want to update me on what i've missed ;)?

post #7079 of 8735

The cable impact.

So far I have done very hard to figure out the reason why my chain of machine does not sound as it should when I changed my tubes from known lower qual to higher one.

 

When I changed the cable from Bifrost to Lyr, SQ is noticeably improved.

I think that cable impacts equal or more than tube does.

 

I stated before: "my Lyr is independent on tubes"

The cable quality might act as weakest link.

post #7080 of 8735

Lyr Power Conversion.   Read At Your Own Peril.

 
After seeing the dual primary transformers in the Bifrost, I had to check out the Lyr.
The Lyr also has transformers with dual primaries. 240/120  They are made by MCI Transformers
and are of Series 4-02.  I suspect the remaining part number is for a special secondary winding as it's not in the parts book.  The filaments are on a seprate transformer.
 
They are connected in parallel for 120VAC.  Switch them to series and they should be 240VAC, per the markings on the PCB board.  What I can't say is if there are any capacitor differences on the secondary side.  Shouldn't be.... but you never know.  Remember, I'm just a Dufus on a Forum.
 
Anyway, I took some photos and added some remarks.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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