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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 423  

post #6331 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by OICWUTUDIDTHAR View Post

What cans are you guys using with your Lyr?

 

 

Mostly LCD-2.2, but also Beyerdynamics DT880 600 Ohm.

post #6332 of 8735

My feeling is, buy the best you can afford.  I spent a lot of dumb money on cheap stuff to play with tube rolling, but when I want to really listen I'm always reaching for the JAN-CEP 6922s/7308s or Brimar CV2492s.  If I were to do it over I'd have bought these three sets only and nothing else.  If I had to narrow those choices down I'd buy two sets of JAN-CEP 7308s and that would probably last the rest of my life.  

 

Since I went to the new amp I don't roll tubes anymore, not sure if it's laziness or what, but with those three sets above I really don't see how it can get better, anything else I try sounds worse with this setup.  

 

Offtopic - It's kind of odd to see the 6SN7 folks cry foul over tube prices when their holy grails are like 1/2 the price of Siemens CCa.


Edited by toschek - 4/11/13 at 4:02am
post #6333 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelamvr6 View Post

 

 

Huh.  I suppose that the tubes, or at least one of the tubes, may have needed to be re-seated into the socket, in which case your pins may need cleaning.

 

I was really expecting to hear that when you changed the position of the tubes the noise moved from one channel to the other.  But the noise disappearing is an even better outcome!  Now here's hoping it doesn't come back! beerchug.gif

 

I got myself sand paper and cleaned pins on Lorenz PCC88 because it was doing unbearable sounds. I'am gonna try them today to see if it helped or not.

post #6334 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by kessomatt View Post

Hey guys, just got the modi and the lyr. Up until now I always used my iphone as source.  Can anyone recommend what the volume levels should be at in windows, itunes and the preamp in itunes?  Any slight EQ I do in itunes will cause nasty distortion unlike my iphone.  Any other settings I should change in win8?  Thanks.

 

Also, I can hear so much noise from the computer. Sounds like cpu noise and can even hear noises when I move my mouse.

 

Shouldn't be hearing noise like that if you're using your Modi as a DAC to feed the Lyr.

 

That noise usually happens when you plug headphones straight into a really cheap PC sound card.

post #6335 of 8735
Quote:

Originally Posted by Salvatore View Post

 

Amperex 6DJ8 orange globe (70's production) -- -- When looking for these tubes be sure to check that the text is indeed orange and has that 'made in Holland' or 'Holland' text. There are some red label versions out there which are actually made in Great Britain (Mullard) and are reported to sound inferior. If the prints have worn off you can try to identify these tubes by examining the date/factory codes. Usually these tubes have two codes etched to the side of the tube from which the other code indicates the model/date and the other one production.

 

The code could look something like this:

 

GAE

◿2K4

 

GA means that the tube is 6DJ8 tube and the last letter or number indicates which batch it is from (year/month). So if you definitely want to have matching pair from the same batch you should look for this symbol as well. The other line tells you information about the production. The first symbol tells you the plant/factory the tube was made in. So when looking for those Holland made Amperexes you should look for that lower right triangle symbol (not actually delta) because it means that the tube was manufactured in Philips, Heerlen, Holland factory. I really dont know what the rest of the letters mean but maybe somebody can enlighten us more.

 

You can't always trust what's printed on the tube. The "made in" is sometimes falsely given. That's one reason the codes are so nice to have. Luckily most tubes of the Philips group carry this code.

 

In the above, 2K4 is the date code. 2 = last digit of year, 1972; K = month, Nov (A = Jan, etc.); 4 = week of month.

 

Also, there is zero reason to pay more for an Amperex-branded tube if the same tube is available more economically under some other brand. A Dutch-made Amperex 6DJ8 is a Dutch-made Philips ECC88, and it is the same tube under any other brand. The Philips group themselves had a multitude of brands for different markets.

post #6336 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioking59 View Post

^^^ Thanks for the help. Is it worth paying a premium for tubes that test as NOS? Is the only advantage the amount of time left before they go bad?

Does $80 for a matched pair of NOS 1968 OGs seem reasonable?

 

Well this is always the buyers choice to make. I'm a T1 user so I only need single tubes (T1 uses some of the same tubes than Lyr and that's why I'm interested of this thread). Rarity doesn't always mean better sound but it does mean that you need to be ready to pay more money. I started my rolling to get better sound but now I've found myself collecting cool looking rare tubes just for the fun of it. The bargain hunting can be both rewarding and frustrating, but at least it teaches you something about the prices of the tubes. If you really don't know the value of the tubes you might just go and get Russian reflectors for $40+. I bought a pair of Voshkod rockets for $8 + shipping. Now I mainly buy used NOS tubes that measure good or strong and have reasonable price. I want to be able to get my money back (+ maybe even make some profit) if I decide to sell them. Most of the "fakes" out there (ebay) are tubes that claim to be NOS but are used instead. That's why I'm not too interested of paying premium for NOS (unless the seller is really reliable). I also don't have equipment to measure tubes so all I have is the sellers word for it.

 

I think you should also read this: http://www.audiotubes.com/mullcode.htm


Edited by Salvatore - 4/11/13 at 4:27am
post #6337 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oskari View Post

You can't always trust what's printed on the tube. The "made in" is sometimes falsely given. That's one reason the codes are so nice to have. Luckily most tubes of the Philips group carry this code.

 

In the above, 2K4 is the date code. 2 = last digit of year, 1972; K = month, Nov (A = Jan, etc.); 4 = week of month.

 

Also, there is zero reason to pay more for an Amperex-branded tube if the same tube is available more economically under some other brand. A Dutch-made Amperex 6DJ8 is a Dutch-made Philips ECC88, and it is the same tube under any other brand. The Philips group themselves had a multitude of brands for different markets.

 

Wow thanks for this! Now the codes actually make sense. It could be that my PQ shield logos are newer than the normal dimpled disc A-frames. At least I've been assuming that my standard A-frames are 1970 (I think they had 0 on them. Need to inspect more when I get home).

post #6338 of 8735
Yeah apparently the USB ports are of low quality(on a $2500 gaming laptop). I've read tips to try and use a powered USB hub to eliminate the noise. If that doesn't work ill just return the modi for a bifrost and use the optical out assuming that doesn't have noise in it too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikepooters View Post

Shouldn't be hearing noise like that if you're using your Modi as a DAC to feed the Lyr.

That noise usually happens when you plug headphones straight into a really cheap PC sound card.
post #6339 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by kessomatt View Post

Yeah apparently the USB ports are of low quality(on a $2500 gaming laptop). I've read tips to try and use a powered USB hub to eliminate the noise. If that doesn't work ill just return the modi for a bifrost and use the optical out assuming that doesn't have noise in it too.

 Optical out will be completely noise free, it's light rather than electric, so no problems there.

post #6340 of 8735

My valve tester project has reached a milestone.

The alpha version of the testing circuit and pcb layout is complete.
I still want to perform more complete circuit testing with Ltspice simulation software (not sure about this) and try to proto-board some of it. (I did do the heater circuit) Otherwise it will be a copycat of the BK schematic with modular connectors and upgraded components with out thoroughly understanding the circuit.
 
It's based on the BK 606.  Very simple emissions and shorts testing, but I've added digital meters and taps for a scope. I hope to be able to do curve tracing against the factory valve spec. I'm not very experienced and I rate my chances for success as small, but I enjoy doing it.  Once the circuit is finial, I etch the board and drill it.  I'm looking forward to that.
 
Why am I posting this?  One I wanted to (shamelessly) share.  Secondly,  is to express my appreciation for Schiit and the Lyr.  It has grown, I don't know, ten-fold.  There are so many trade offs in designing the Lyr, building it for a very reasonable price, and making a profit.   There's a lot of engineering in that thing.  The transformer selection is difficult because you have to deal with high plate voltage, small heater voltage and negative grid voltage.   Plus, the circuit is all AC voltage.  There aren't a lot of products that require this, hence the component choices are smaller. I've tested transformers from two mfg's (Hammond and Triad-Magnetics) and my design requires three total. It's going to be huge for just a simple circuit.  All the resisters and pots require a high wattage rating.  Many, many inter-dependencies.  I appreciated Schiit before,  now my respect for them has reached a new level.
 

 

 

 
 
 
post #6341 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flisker View Post

USN-CEP 6922 ??? What the h... is this number. I really need to find some list of all possibly compatible tube types tongue_smile.gif

 

Also may I ask you guys to check out this video and tell me if noise my Lyr is doing is "normal" ? 

 

 

If it's not normal than I guess it might be because I'am using US version in EU (of course with AC-AC transformer) but there is 50Hz instead of 60Hz in the wall.

 

I don't see a 50hz rating here: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=popup_image_additional&pID=3&pic=3&products_image_large_additional=images/lyr_05.jpg

Email Schiit Support for confirmation. To me the circuit board looks like straight stepdown and not a switched power supply. That means cleaner source but no magic, ie you need an EU unit for in the EU, etc.

post #6342 of 8735

Well, it looks like these may have been lost in the mail.

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b

 

Join me in a silent prayer to the tube god(s) for their speedy and safe arrival. frown.gif

post #6343 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

My valve tester project has reached a milestone.

The alpha version of the testing circuit and pcb layout is complete.
I still want to perform more complete circuit testing with Ltspice simulation software (not sure about this) and try to proto-board some of it. (I did do the heater circuit) Otherwise it will be a copycat of the BK schematic with modular connectors and upgraded components with out thoroughly understanding the circuit.
 
It's based on the BK 606.  Very simple emissions and shorts testing, but I've added digital meters and taps for a scope. I hope to be able to do curve tracing against the factory valve spec. I'm not very experienced and I rate my chances for success as small, but I enjoy doing it.  Once the circuit is finial, I etch the board and drill it.  I'm looking forward to that.
 
Why am I posting this?  One I wanted to (shamelessly) share.  Secondly,  is to express my appreciation for Schiit and the Lyr.  It has grown, I don't know, ten-fold.  There are so many trade offs in designing the Lyr, building it for a very reasonable price, and making a profit.   There's a lot of engineering in that thing.  The transformer selection is difficult because you have to deal with high plate voltage, small heater voltage and negative grid voltage.   Plus, the circuit is all AC voltage.  There aren't a lot of products that require this, hence the component choices are smaller. I've tested transformers from two mfg's (Hammond and Triad-Magnetics) and my design requires three total. It's going to be huge for just a simple circuit.  All the resisters and pots require a high wattage rating.  Many, many inter-dependencies.  I appreciated Schiit before,  now my respect for them has reached a new level.
 

 

 

 
 
 


Do you make tube tester too?

post #6344 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

 

I don't see a 50hz rating here: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=popup_image_additional&pID=3&pic=3&products_image_large_additional=images/lyr_05.jpg

Email Schiit Support for confirmation. To me the circuit board looks like straight stepdown and not a switched power supply. That means cleaner source but no magic, ie you need an EU unit for in the EU, etc.

 

I'll email Jason probably tomorrow (I'am kind of busy this week), but Lyr works fine. Sound is great, it's just buzzing a little. Actually can hear it only when I turn it up while PC is off. If it's not gonna do any harm to the Lyr than I'am fine with it.

post #6345 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

Well, it looks like these may have been lost in the mail.

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b

 

Join me in a silent prayer to the tube god(s) for their speedy and safe arrival. frown.gif

 

Researching shipments from Spain... apparently it takes forever. Hopefully the tracking numbers don't work either.

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