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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 411  

post #6151 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flisker View Post


Are they better than than Lorenz E88CC ? I got Lyr yesterday tried some tubes and so far like most E88CC's. I like airy, aggresive and dynamic mids and bass with as good impact as it gets smily_headphones1.gif Using Lyr with HD650.

 

I've tried the SEL Lorenz PCC88's and i have to say i prefer the sound of the Siemens over those, but not tried any E88CC Lorenz tubes yet.

 

I wouldn't say the Siemens have massive bass impact, more like a subtle warmth, but the 650's are a warm can anyway, so can probably get away with a less bassy tube.

I don't know how to describe mids other than recessed or not, but vocals sound superb on the Siemens as far as i can tell.

Treble is smooth and airy, not bright at all, but aren't the 650's a bit veiled in the high's? could do with some sparkle from what i've read on them.

 

Soundstage is expansive, more so than any other tube i've got.

 

Don't know if all that helps any.

post #6152 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikepooters View Post

More Siemens PCC189's have gone up on sale, i really can't reccomend these tubes highly enough, they absolutely trounce the stock tubes, absolute bargain.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-PCC189-7ES8-SIEMENS-NOS-NEW-OWN-BOX-/221207288653?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item3380fb5b4d

 

Looks like they'll keep turning up every so often.

 

I'm intrigued to try the ECC189 variant now, only 6.3v heater instead of 7.6v so should be more akin to E88CC or CCa.

I bought a pair wish me luck

post #6153 of 8735
Bought pair too biggrin.gif They are on fire basshead.gif

Btw, I know it's off topic, but do any of you guys know how to unscrew screws on the bottom of Lyr so I could open it + what switch for power on/off is used in Lyr ? (Got my Lyr pretty fu**ed up during shipping and switch is broken so I would like to solder there new one)
Edited by Flisker - 4/3/13 at 11:54am
post #6154 of 8735
So got answer from seller , just for info... this is not compatible with Lyr -> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/290614310990?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1600wt_754
post #6155 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flisker View Post

So got answer from seller , just for info... this is not compatible with Lyr -> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/290614310990?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1600wt_754

 

Your Lyr already has sockets, so it's not something you'll need to buy unless you break your sockets.

post #6156 of 8735

stuff that only interests me..

 

 

"The first grids were not placed close to the filament. The hot wire filament sagged out of shape and the grid had to be kept clear. It was only later that it was discovered that the closer the control gid was placed to the cathode and the more closely the turns of the wire spiral to one another the more effect on the control of the electron stream it had. Over time the grid changed from the original grid iron shape through a helix of stiff wire supported on a support rod to a mechanically produced piece of precision engineering. Automated grid production centred on winding fine wire round two support rods. The machine would notich the (Nickel) support rod, lay the (Molybdenum) wire in the notch and finally burr the sides of the notch over the wire (known as peening) to lock it in place.

Knowing that the pitch of the grid wires was one element in the control of the electron stream grids with variable pitch were produced. These had close wound turns at the end and more widely spaced wires at the centre. This variable pitch grid is at the heart of the variable mu valves, where the sensitivity of the valve, and hence its amplification, can be altered by changing the amount of negative bias on the control grid."

post #6157 of 8735

You can find the "exact" switch here...http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/_/N-5g2h/

about 50,000 to choose from.

 

Narrowed down:   http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/_/N-5g2j?P=1z0z2y5Z1z0z24z


Edited by sceleratus - 4/3/13 at 1:58pm
post #6158 of 8735

took my calipers out.  The barrel is 0.2260" or 5.75mm

there is no lock nut to the back panel.  that means it is floating in the hole and board mounted with 90 deg pins.  SPST

you'd have to be ok with a board level re-work.

post #6159 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikepooters View Post

Your Lyr already has sockets, so it's not something you'll need to buy unless you break your sockets.

Oh, right. Anyway I ordered savers you linked hope they are fine wink.gif
post #6160 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

took my calipers out.  The barrel is 0.2260" or 5.75mm
there is no lock nut to the back panel.  that means it is floating in the hole and board mounted with 90 deg pins.  SPST
you'd have to be ok with a board level re-work.

Thanks for links and information.

What do you mean with board level re-work , isn't is as simple as unsoldering one switch for another ?
post #6161 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flisker View Post


Thanks for links and information.

What do you mean with board level re-work , isn't is as simple as unsoldering one switch for another ?

Not exactly.

That board is made using "SMD" surface mount devices or components.  Rather than older thru-hole components.

The density of the components is much greater with SMD.  The switch is probably thru-hole but could be SMD.

That would not be fun.

 

But it can be done either way.

BTW:  You will need a chisel-tip (narrow) for your soldering iron. Do not use a pointed one. Also get fine diameter multi-core solder with internal flux.

Adding a flow of thread like solder, rather than big goopy blobs.

 

These are Excellent soldering tutorials and they take you from the tool to thru-hole to SMD.

http://www.eevblog.com/2011/06/19/eevblog-180-soldering-tutorial-part-1-tools/

 

http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/eevblog-183-soldering-tutorial-part-2/

 

http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/18/eevblog-186-soldering-tutorial-part-3-surface-mount/

post #6162 of 8735

Need some help guys,
I 've been listening to my LCD-2's thru my Lyr and Bifrost combo and now i'm looking for something with a more analytical sound not syrupy. Geared towards the higher end to bring out the LCD-2. I feel like the darker sound of the LCD-2's is even more magnified through the Lyr. From what I've read the tubes below are more geared towards that brighter sound signature.

 

I'm looking at the Tesla E88CC
 http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Tesla-E88CC-%7B47%7D-6922.html

or the Tungsram 6922 red label
http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Tungsram-PCC88-%7B47%7D-7DJ8.html

 

Or something else if you feel you've got a better suggestion.

 

post #6163 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenonBeaver View Post

Need some help guys,
I 've been listening to my LCD-2's thru my Lyr and Bifrost combo and now i'm looking for something with a more analytical sound not syrupy. Geared towards the higher end to bring out the LCD-2. I feel like the darker sound of the LCD-2's is even more magnified through the Lyr. From what I've read the tubes below are more geared towards that brighter sound signature.

 

I'm looking at the Tesla E88CC
 http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Tesla-E88CC-%7B47%7D-6922.html

or the Tungsram 6922 red label
http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Tungsram-PCC88-%7B47%7D-7DJ8.html

 

Or something else if you feel you've got a better suggestion.

 

 

 

I am currently burning in a pair of Amperex Oracle Label ECC88's such as these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-Orange-Label-6DJ8-ECC88-Tube-Pair-Same-Date-Codes-/281085595042?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item417201cda2

 

So far the fit the sound signature you are looking for providing an abundance of detail with excellent separation and tight bass. I hope they develop a bit more soundstage depth and they'll be winners.  


Edited by Mark-sf - 4/3/13 at 6:37pm
post #6164 of 8735

decided to look "inside" to answer Flisker's switch question.

 

it is an Oleda brand, model MTS-102C4

 

http://www.chinaleda.com/en/product.php?action=type&id=7

 

i can't post photos until i am grown up and have 10 posts.

post #6165 of 8735

so why not take a pic or two?

 

 

 

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