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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 369  

post #5521 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmahler2u View Post

How do you install socket saver?  sorry for the noobie questions...deadhorse.gif

Add:

 

Always, always, always unplug all cords, power and inputs.

Take the device to a work surface where you have room to work.

Follow this procedure each time you roll tubes.

Think surgery.

post #5522 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

They are presently on tour...  I miss them.

Heh, one more stop then home? Mine are on the road as well.....

post #5523 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

Matched is a very good idea....

I took it on faith as they have a large quantity of these valves and they are a regular valve seller.

They should know to match.

One of the other members posted that they were a reputable seller.

 

They goods look perfect.

 

The E188CC is a very good valve.  I have a set made in Heerlen Holland that I love so much, I wanted a backup pair.

I think these are a fair price for 1960 vintage.

 

The ad states a "R0D1"

R = Mitcham UK plant, "0" is 1960 "D" is April "1" is the first week

 

VR1 is the valve type.  E188CC

 

 

BTW.  You don't need "balanced" with a Lyr.

 

 

Jason said that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube, wouldn't balancing be a good idea?

post #5524 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelamvr6 View Post

 

 

Jason said that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube, wouldn't balancing be a good idea?

The question was posed to Jason before, and as I recall, that's why you don't need balanced.  But then that doesn't make sense because if you have 110/120 and a 105/115 the average would be 107/117.

 

I am certain that balanced triodes are not required, but I can't tell you why.

Hey, wait a minute !  You're the dude that read the whole thread......  You tell me.

 

EDIT:  Thought about this further. The test values, in this case using a scale where 120 = 100% good NOS, are a measure of how strong a valve is.  As such I don't think that parameter matters.   Hello, calling Alaska.


Edited by Iamnothim - 2/26/13 at 9:13am
post #5525 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

The question was posed to Jason before, and as I recall, that's why you don't need balanced.  But then that doesn't make sense because if you have 110/120 and a 105/115 the average would be 107/117.

 

I am certain that balanced triodes are not required, but I can't tell you why.

Hey, wait a minute !  You're the dude that read the whole thread......  You tell me.

 

EDIT:  Thought about this further. The test values, in this case using a scale where 120 = 100% good NOS, are a measure of how strong a valve is.  As such I don't think that parameter matters.   Hello, calling Alaska.

 

Now that's twice I see that reference.... Anyone ever answer?

post #5526 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlight View Post

 

Now that's twice I see that reference.... Anyone ever answer?

Every now and then he awakens from hibernation. 

post #5527 of 8735

Speaking of awakening, I just got an e-mail from the guys at TubeMonger that says they need to correct information given in a previous post.  Here you are:

 

"Post post #5515 of 5524 needs correction.

 
This must be an oversight by our friends at Langrex. We will inform them of the error. These specific RTC E188CC tubes are not from 1960 or even 1960s. There were no dimple disk getter Mullard E188CC tubes from early to late 1960s. 
It will be safer to call these 1970s-early 1980s production. Date/Revision codes suggest that these could either be from 1970-1972 or 1980-1982 Mitcham production. 
Revision/date on these is VRI Rxxx (not VR1). Revision on most early to late 1960s Mullard E188CC/CV4108 should be dYx Rxxx.
 
 
 

1960s Examples:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Langrex  is a trusted seller and they stand behind their product. Buy with confidence. Unless they have started doing it now, Langrex does not match or screen tubes. They will however give you an exchange for any issues.
 
Regardless of the fact that these RTC/Mullard E188CC tubes are from 1970s-80s, NOS/NIB Mullard E188CC is a bargain at that price. NOS/NIB Dimple Disk Getter Mullard E188CC used to sell for $300+/pair. This temporary dip in prices is due to a large number of these coming in the market from a single Military auction. 
 
Tubemonger

www.tubemonger.com"

 

That's my good deed for the day.biggrin.gif

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends 

post #5528 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_sends View Post

Speaking of awakening, I just got an e-mail from the guys at TubeMonger that says they need to correct information given in a previous post.  Here you are:

 

"Post post #5515 of 5524 needs correction.

 
This must be an oversight by our friends at Langrex. We will inform them of the error. These specific RTC E188CC tubes are not from 1960 or even 1960s. There were no dimple disk getter Mullard E188CC tubes from early to late 1960s. 
It will be safer to call these 1970s-early 1980s production. Date/Revision codes suggest that these could either be from 1970-1972 or 1980-1982 Mitcham production. 
Revision/date on these is VRI Rxxx (not VR1). Revision on most early to late 1960s Mullard E188CC/CV4108 should be dYx Rxxx.
 
 
 

1960s Examples:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Langrex  is a trusted seller and they stand behind their product. Buy with confidence. Unless they have started doing it now, Langrex does not match or screen tubes. They will however give you an exchange for any issues.
 
Regardless of the fact that these RTC/Mullard E188CC tubes are from 1970s-80s, NOS/NIB Mullard E188CC is a bargain at that price. NOS/NIB Dimple Disk Getter Mullard E188CC used to sell for $300+/pair. This temporary dip in prices is due to a large number of these coming in the market from a single Military auction. 
 
Tubemonger

www.tubemonger.com"

 

That's my good deed for the day.biggrin.gif

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends 

They looked too clean.

 

Not happy  mad.gif

 

 

EDIT.  I should have know... anytime there is a lack of photos.... you can't tell what you are buying.

EDIT2.....  Look at the ink dummy !!!  I will retreat to a very deep cave.


Edited by Iamnothim - 2/26/13 at 1:24pm
post #5529 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

They looked too clean.

 

Not happy  mad.gif

I missed the reference...

The tube was too clean?

 

-HK sends

post #5530 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_sends View Post

I missed the reference...

The tube was too clean?

 

-HK sends

Perhaps they were missing a decade of corrosion.

post #5531 of 8735

Sorry, I don't usually equate clean tubes with age.  I've seen some immaculate old tubes from the 50s and 60s and seen some tubes from the 70s and 80s that look like they were stored in a cardboard box outside the shed...

I guess it's all how they are stored and treated.

 

Just my penny and a half.

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

 

PS - But my question and comment wasn't meant as any slight to Iamnothim.  He's right to not be happy.

post #5532 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

The question was posed to Jason before, and as I recall, that's why you don't need balanced.  But then that doesn't make sense because if you have 110/120 and a 105/115 the average would be 107/117.

 

I am certain that balanced triodes are not required, but I can't tell you why.

Hey, wait a minute !  You're the dude that read the whole thread......  You tell me.

 

EDIT:  Thought about this further. The test values, in this case using a scale where 120 = 100% good NOS, are a measure of how strong a valve is.  As such I don't think that parameter matters.   Hello, calling Alaska.

 

Balancing didn't really come up a lot in this thread...

post #5533 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelamvr6 View Post

 

Balancing didn't really come up a lot in this thread...

That's probably because a lot of us older farts didn't think to ask if the Lyr was using both triodes in the tubes.  I, at least, thought it was only using one triode in each tube so I was only concerned with tubes matching.  That's why you'll hear tons of talk on the "Triode Flippers" from Tubemonger in the posts preceeding Jason's clarification that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube.  That's why balancing (as well as matching) has become the subject of conversation recently.

 

Cheers from an Old Fart!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

post #5534 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_sends View Post

That's probably because a lot of us older farts didn't think to ask if the Lyr was using both triodes in the tubes.  I, at least, thought it was only using one triode in each tube so I was only concerned with tubes matching.  That's why you'll hear tons of talk on the "Triode Flippers" from Tubemonger in the posts preceeding Jason's clarification that the Lyr uses both triodes in each tube.  That's why balancing (as well as matching) has become the subject of conversation recently.

 

Cheers from an Old Fart!beerchug.gif

-HK sends


Maybe I'm mistaken (my usual M.O as it happens) but my understanding was that Jason stated that the Lyr was single ended triode and specifically mentioned that triode flipping was not necessary. Not sure he mentioned balancing specifically but that would be a moot point if it's single ended.

post #5535 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiek997 View Post


Maybe I'm mistaken (my usual M.O as it happens) but my understanding was that Jason stated that the Lyr was single ended triode and specifically mentioned that triode flipping was not necessary. Not sure he mentioned balancing specifically but that would be a moot point if it's single ended.

You probably aren't mistaken.  I'm not as up on amplifier topologies as I should be.

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

 

"I'm old, I can talk as long as I want!"


Edited by HK_sends - 2/26/13 at 5:00pm
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