Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 352

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iamnothim 

 

My experience.

 

I purchased a cheap set for $18 from Brent Jessee  Very flimsy.

http://audiotubes.com/books.htm

 

They worked well, but the socket savers came out with the tube each time.  This puts more stress on the Lyr sockets, plus the pins on the socket savers.

 

I switched to Tubemongers product.  They have much more substantial pins and sockets.  The pins pretty much stay put in the Lyr when you remove a tube from the top.  You might have to press down a bit to level them before re-inserting a tube.  The pins are gold plated for good conductance.

 

They provide for less stress on the tube pins because the extraction is very controlled.  Same thing when reinserting.  The heat thing is inconsequential 128 deg F.  Aesthetically, I find them very pleasing because I can see the tubes. I cannot detect any degradation in sonic quality.   I don't regret buying them one bit.

 

 

Hey thank you for the information! im greatful that all of you guys were able to help me out. I just placed an order, so i hope i receive them soon.

- i'm still wanting to find some good tubes that give the lower end some oomph. If anybody can help me out here id be glad to listen to your thoughts and opinions about the tubes :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iamnothim 

 C, F, ?  same thing.

Whatever it takes .....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sniperbombers 

i want to quote this because i do have a question about the socket savers off of ebay. quality wise i know it'll end up being worse than off tubemonger, What concerns me the most is how much worse or better the ones from monger vs from china really are.

Given the choice, I would go with the ones from TubeMonger.  They are more expensive but they have some dampening.  The socket savers I got from ebay aren't really that bad, but all they are is a bakelite housing with pin extensions mounted in them...no damping material.  I just tried them because they were cheap.

One technical issue...while the socket in the TubeMonger savers are gold plated, the pins at the bottom of the saver are not (I've had 6 different sets).  So don't be suprised...

Reference the 2nd sentence in the description: "with Vibration Reduction Base, and Gold Plated Pins on the socket end is a perfect solution."

http://www.tubemonger.com/NOVIB_Socket_Saver_with_Vibration_Red_B9A_NOVAL_p/novib.htm

Cheers!

-HK sends

Gold isn't a great conductor anyway, just stops corrosion. Silver is best then copper then gold but tin, frankly, is preferred by some as far as sonic qualities. Also, normally nickel is under the gold, and nickel is horrible. Sometimes the gold is flashed to the metal being used but most often there is a substrate of nickel and then the gold. Also, the gold is so thin that it wears quickly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dgiant 

What would be a good tube for my LYR that makes it a little bit more sparkly on the highs for my lcd 2.2s? I was looking at the gold lion and even the telefunken

Those are good choices.  Another option are these: http://www.tubemonger.com/Tesla_NOT_JJ_MPs_MINT_NOS_1970s_MIL_E88CC_6922_p/198.htm

They would sound great too.

Cheers!

-HK sends

Quote:

Originally Posted by HK_sends 

Given the choice, I would go with the ones from TubeMonger.  They are more expensive but they have some dampening.  The socket savers I got from ebay aren't really that bad, but all they are is a bakelite housing with pin extensions mounted in them...no damping material.  I just tried them because they were cheap.

 

One technical issue...while the socket in the TubeMonger savers are gold plated, the pins at the bottom of the saver are not (I've had 6 different sets).  So don't be suprised...

Reference the 2nd sentence in the description: "with Vibration Reduction Base, and Gold Plated Pins on the socket end is a perfect solution."

 

http://www.tubemonger.com/NOVIB_Socket_Saver_with_Vibration_Red_B9A_NOVAL_p/novib.htm

 

Cheers!

-HK sends

hey thank you so much for your feedback about the ebay socketsavers. 

Is there anybody out there whos willing to recommend some good/darker tubes of choice ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sniperbombers 

hey thank you so much for your feedback about the ebay socketsavers. 

Is there anybody out there whos willing to recommend some good/darker tubes of choice ?

I have reached my recommendation quota.

Actually there are others with a larger collection than my dozen..  and I wouldn't call anything in my largely Philips collection "dark".

I got rich, but no dark.

Speaking of my collection.

My Lorenz valves haven't arrived from Lithuania yet.

How does that old Tom Petty song go? "The waiting is the hardest part..."

Breaking in my HD800s and got to thinking about breaking in amp/tubes. I should finally get the Bifrost/Lyr on the 19th.  Having never owned an amp with valves before, I have a question. Do tubes in the pre section even require a signal running through them and/or an output load as part of the burn in process?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iamnothim 

 

Speaking of my collection.

My Lorenz valves haven't arrived from Lithuania yet.

Mine either.  I believe we ordered the same day.  The outside limit of eBay's promised delivery date was Feb 8

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobJS 

 

Mine either.  I believe we ordered the same day.  The outside limit of eBay's promised delivery date was Feb 8

I just ordered some capacitors from him a minute ago.

In the body of that listing he quotes 9 - 45 days to the states.

He's got great feedback numbers.  I'm sure they'll show up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iamnothim 

 

I love that question !

Generally I have found NOS valves will sound better after 68 hours and 37 minutes.  Read back a few pages and you'll get the joke.

 

Seriously, I love the question.  I don't have the answer but it makes me think because I'm reading a lot about valve function.

 

There are 4 working components in a valve.  Heater, Cathode, Grid, and Anode.

The magic is that electrons fly through the air from the titanium Cathode to the Anode.

Cathode neg.  Anode Pos.

The reason the cathode give up the electrons is because it is "heated" by the heater.  The heater voltage and current in Lyr tubes are constant at 6.3V / 365 mA   As such it'll give up electrons at a constant rate.  It doesn't matter if more voltage is applied.

 

Two things govern the electron flow. The negative grid current and the positive anode current.   When you crank up the juice the grid voltage drops and more electrons get to the anode.

 

Don't believe any of the above until you hear from Alaska.

 

So your question.  I don't think the valve cares.

 

I want to circle back to a response that the getter doesn't make a difference in the sonic characteristics of a valve.

The getter is part of the "flash" reaction that coats the top of the tube.  They are impregnated with barium and function to reduce residual gases by chemically combining with them.  As they become depleted the valve becomes compromised.   ie. The getter can wear out.  I can't help but Speculate that composition and shape of the getter wouldn't contribute to sound.

 

I'm just now reading this stuff and I'm working to get it down.

Some will leave a nos tube in a tester for a while to heat the tube and to allow for the getter to absorb any gasses that tube may have gotten in the vacuum or been left over. And there are some that will put tubes in the oven to heat the getter so that it does the same thing. Tubes are very interesting. I found it all the more so when speaking with a friend who worked for RCA in the good ole days and designed tubes and circuits. He has several patents but of course RCA got all the money.