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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 351  

post #5251 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxper View Post

I do think you're the first person (at least that I recall), that has had a problem with the design of the Lyr.

 

Have you at least tried out tube gloves or socket savers?

 

sockets' savers are not an option - for me having something between socket and tube is crazy idea and I am not gonna discuss about that

 

I will try rubber gloves - that might be a great idea indeed but it doesn't change my opinion about bad design to roll the tubes (so far 6bz7 sound great and I am not gonna change them in the nearest future)
 

post #5252 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by magicman View Post

 

sockets' savers are not an option - for me having something between socket and tube is crazy idea and I am not gonna discuss about that

 

I will try rubber gloves - that might be a great idea indeed but it doesn't change my opinion about bad design to roll the tubes (so far 6bz7 sound great and I am not gonna change them in the nearest future)
 


I thought the same thing... I'm buying tubes with gold pins only to run them thru a bog standard intermediary device.

However, I did it anyway because of two reasons.....

1. I like to see the glow of the tubes when theyre raised that extra inch.

2. Heat kills electronics and the lyr runs hot enough so I figure that by raising the tubes will all them to run a small amount cooler and this might just prolong their lifespan..

 

With them raised incidentally, removing the tubes is so easy with rubber gloves.

post #5253 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiek997 View Post


I thought the same thing... I'm buying tubes with gold pins only to run them thru a bog standard intermediary device.

However, I did it anyway because of two reasons.....

1. I like to see the glow of the tubes when theyre raised that extra inch.

2. Heat kills electronics and the lyr runs hot enough so I figure that by raising the tubes will all them to run a small amount cooler and this might just prolong their lifespan..

 

With them raised incidentally, removing the tubes is so easy with rubber gloves.


it's class A amp + tubes, heat is normal there is nothing wrong and it will last many years

 

I saw and had many similar amps, Lyr isn't really hot believe me and looking through the holes there is enough space to air circulation, and no heat sensitive elements

 

I am still thinking about having such clear mids like in EF-5, I really like soundstage and 3D sound of Lyr, but clarity on stock tubes 6bz7 is so so

 

Putting EH 6922 (which are known to be analitycally sounding tubes) haven't changed that

 

In a few places I read about e188cc or e288cc tubes that have amazing clarity and speed with mids but I am not willing to risk for the price just to check it out

 

If only EF-5 got that 6W of power ...

 

For instance piano sounds dull/muffled on Lyr comparing to EF-5 which has speed, sparkle, clarity and controlled, fast impact (but was too bright sometime)

 

I am thinking about buying EF-5 for piano mainly which is breathtaking when paired with HE-4 and keep Lyr for the rest, especially rock, metal, acoustic


Edited by magicman - 2/13/13 at 9:43pm
post #5254 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by magicman View Post


it's class A amp + tubes, heat is normal there is nothing wrong and it will last many years

 

I understand that - It's also not my first day out of school. In fact I have no less than FOUR class A amplifiers in my house (have installed hundreds in other peoples houses) and they all run warm, some would say very warm. One of them (Aragon) ran hotter than the others (B&W x2, Harmon Kardon) and has failed twice.

 

Time will tell if you correct about the lifespan of the Lyr - my point is that heat is what kills electronics and whilst a certain amount of heat is inevitable and indeed almost necessary (Class A amps dont sound their best when cold).

It is my opinion that whenever you can, reducing the amount of heat can only benefit your equipment longevity. That is why when I build an AV rack, I use not only active cooling fans but passive convection as well.

 

This is just my opinion - not an argument. Lets not poison this amazingly informative thread with our noise..... We can start another thread for the virtues/drawback of heat in our equipment.....


Edited by eddiek997 - 2/11/13 at 1:25pm
post #5255 of 8735

Just seeing the dialog so forgive me if I am stating the obvious.  If you do get a set of socket savers (from TubeMonger or off ebay), using them with your tubes will significantly decrease the internal temps on the Lyr.

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

post #5256 of 8735

As an aside I tested the temperature of an Amperex OG in my Lyr using a Fluke 88V multimeter with a thermocouple wire.

 

It read 128 deg F.

Not hot enough to be concerned about.

 

I did this because in my B&K 606 rebuild project, I fashioned a tube base for breadboarding from a polypropylene organizer.  I looked up the melting point of polypropylene in wiki and got 349 C.  At standard pressure water boils at 212 F to add a reference point.

 


Edited by Iamnothim - 2/11/13 at 2:02pm
post #5257 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_sends View Post

Just seeing the dialog so forgive me if I am stating the obvious.  If you do get a set of socket savers (from TubeMonger or off ebay), using them with your tubes will significantly decrease the internal temps on the Lyr.

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

i want to quote this because i do have a question about the socket savers off of ebay. quality wise i know it'll end up being worse than off tubemonger, What concerns me the most is how much worse or better the ones from monger vs from china really are.

post #5258 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniperbombers View Post

i want to quote this because i do have a question about the socket savers off of ebay. quality wise i know it'll end up being worse than off tubemonger, What concerns me the most is how much worse or better the ones from monger vs from china really are.

 

My experience.
 
I purchased a cheap set for $18 from Brent Jessee  Very flimsy.
 
They worked well, but the socket savers came out with the tube each time.  This puts more stress on the Lyr sockets, plus the pins on the socket savers.
 
I switched to Tubemongers product.  They have much more substantial pins and sockets.  The pins pretty much stay put in the Lyr when you remove a tube from the top.  You might have to press down a bit to level them before re-inserting a tube.  The pins are gold plated for good conductance.
 
They provide for less stress on the tube pins because the extraction is very controlled.  Same thing when reinserting.  The heat thing is inconsequential 128 deg F.  Aesthetically, I find them very pleasing because I can see the tubes. I cannot detect any degradation in sonic quality.   I don't regret buying them one bit.
 

Amprex on Ice

 

post #5259 of 8735

i know it's not 88 or 6dj8 6922.

 

is this suitable for Lyr?

 

http://www.tubemonger.com/La_Radiotechnique_12AT7WA_NOS_NIB_France_ECC81_Pro_p/1158.htm

post #5260 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmahler2u View Post

i know it's not 88 or 6dj8 6922.

 

is this suitable for Lyr?

 

http://www.tubemonger.com/La_Radiotechnique_12AT7WA_NOS_NIB_France_ECC81_Pro_p/1158.htm

I'm going with a solid no

post #5261 of 8735

Thank You!  beerchug.gif

post #5262 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmahler2u View Post

Thank You!  beerchug.gif

 

 

 

post #5263 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

As an aside I tested the temperature of an Amperex OG in my Lyr using a Fluke 88V multimeter with a thermocouple wire.

 

It read 128 deg F.

Not hot enough to be concerned about.

 

I did this because in my B&K 606 rebuild project, I fashioned a tube base for breadboarding from a polypropylene organizer.  I looked up the melting point of polypropylene in wiki and got 349 C   .  At standard pressure water boils at 212 F to add a reference point.

 

Melting point of polypropylene is much closer to 349 F.   349 C is like 660 F.  Shades of Ray Bradbury.

post #5264 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobJS View Post

Melting point of polypropylene is much closer to 349 F.   349 C is like 660 F.  Shades of Ray Bradbury.

 C, F, ?  same thing.

post #5265 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiek997 View Post

I understand that - It's also not my first day out of school. In fact I have no less than FOUR class A amplifiers in my house (have installed hundreds in other peoples houses) and they all run warm, some would say very warm. One of them (Aragon) ran hotter than the others (B&W x2, Harmon Kardon) and has failed twice.

 

Time will tell if you correct about the lifespan of the Lyr - my point is that heat is what kills electronics and whilst a certain amount of heat is inevitable and indeed almost necessary (Class A amps dont sound their best when cold).

It is my opinion that whenever you can, reducing the amount of heat can only benefit your equipment longevity. That is why when I build an AV rack, I use not only active cooling fans but passive convection as well.

 

This is just my opinion - not an argument. Lets not poison this amazingly informative thread with our noise..... We can start another thread for the virtues/drawback of heat in our equipment.....


yeah you are right - that might be the point of course - I just don't want anything between tube pins and tube socket from electrical point of view (loosing connections, extra RLC for the whole circuit, changing resonance frequency of "multi socket" - microphonics etc ...) I agree there will be cooler inside of the amp if I use socket savers having the tubes higher but I simply quit that because my listening sessions are usually from 2 to 3 hours so I bet it will last many many years (and schiit giving 5 years of warranty would not shoot in the head without checking temperature on all the components inside during working of the amp even 24/7)

 

back to the tube rolling - I am gonna give the lyr some time before thinking of EF-5 again, about 100 hours and burn EH 6922 set for at least 20-30 hours (they are brand new) - actually they do a bit better than 6bz7 although they don't have that amazing sense of 3D and expansive soundstage, but for the piano there is a bit better clarity on the mids which is exactly what I am looking for


Edited by magicman - 2/12/13 at 1:23am
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