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post #4681 of 8735

I knew this would happen eventually; I fell asleep last night with the Lyr on...

post #4682 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

I knew this would happen eventually; I fell asleep last night with the Lyr on...

 

I hate it when that happens!! I get up the next morning chastising myself for loosing 7 hours on my favorite tubes. 

post #4683 of 8735

I'm currently using the Amperex 6DJ8 in my Lyr with my 650 and love what I'm getting. But I'm looking now to upgrade to either the LCD2 or HD800. Would this tube still be one of the better choices, or are there better choices for the LCD2/HD800 from the Lyr?

 

Bifrost DAC if that makes a difference

post #4684 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

I read the eBay listing a couple times and could not find a Date.

I always question listings that don't provide a date of mfg.

 

There are plenty of listings that do.

 

Again, I might have missed it....

I contacted the seller yesterday and the tubes are made in 1971.

 

BTW why do you need a date for them?

post #4685 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by kepler28nm View Post

I contacted the seller yesterday and the tubes are made in 1971.

 

BTW why do you need a date for them?

The sonics vary with the year of mfg.

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong here.

 

Tubes made in the late 50's to early 70's tend to have a better sound.  

Late 50's to mid 60's seem to sound better. (Don't ask me why)

Tubes are valued based upon:

Brand: Mullard, Amprex, Telefunken, Siemans, RCA, Valvo, etc.

Country of mfg Holland, Germany, USA, UK.

What mfg. plant produced them.

Sub-Tube type, grade  PQ, SQ, Caa, USN-CPE, CV2492 or CV2493

What type of "getter"  "D", halo, large halo, dimple getter.

Is the tube "NOS" (New Old Stock), NIB (New In Box), Used.

All of the above play a part in  determining the sound and the cost of the tube.

post #4686 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodie View Post

I'm currently using the Amperex 6DJ8 in my Lyr with my 650 and love what I'm getting. But I'm looking now to upgrade to either the LCD2 or HD800. Would this tube still be one of the better choices, or are there better choices for the LCD2/HD800 from the Lyr?

 

Bifrost DAC if that makes a difference

Yo Wood,

 

I traveled the same path.  I like the tube with my 650's and I like it with my LCD2's  

Qualifier: 1969 Orange Globe Amprex and 1969 USN-CPE USA.

 

I'd need more info to give you my 2 cents. 

post #4687 of 8735

 

1000

post #4688 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

 

1000

 

Did you put it in your freezer? ;)

 

BTW, how are you liking your Furman power conditioner? I'm tempted to get one, did you notice a difference in sound quality? Also, does it fit under the bifrost nicely be any chance?

post #4689 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

 

Did you put it in your freezer? ;)

 

BTW, how are you liking your Furman power conditioner? I'm tempted to get one, did you notice a difference in sound quality? Also, does it fit under the bifrost nicely be any chance?

Cheap Photoshop parlor trick redface.gif

Actually a bunch O' stuff to get the effect.

 

Furman AC 215A

I love the box.  It's built very well and there's far more than surge suppression going on.  It's a power filter as well. Built for a purpose not a  flashy marketing retail product.

Do I notice a sonic difference...  I didn't exactly listen for one or do a comparison.  But between the Herbies extenders, Herbies Halo thingies, and the Furman my kit is sounding un freak'n believable.

 

Will it fit below.....  Yes, maybe.

Centered it's 1/4" short on each side and an inch shallow.  If you position your new rubber feet correctly, it should work.

post #4690 of 8735

My labels are smudged.  Aarghh

 

1000

post #4691 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

My labels are smudged.  Aarghh

 

1000

 

I'm finding that I can take off the inked lettering on tubes just by rubbing with my finger. Is that normal? Is it supposed to come off that easy?


Edited by phototristan - 12/18/12 at 5:31pm
post #4692 of 8735

^^ Yep

post #4693 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

The sonics vary with the year of mfg.
Guys, correct me if I'm wrong here.

Tubes made in the late 50's to early 70's tend to have a better sound.  
Late 50's to mid 60's seem to sound better. (Don't ask me why)

Apparently old tubes use more rare earth minerals in the plates and sheilds, they supposedly make the tube sound better. That's why the grey sheild tubes are worth more than the chrome/silver sheild versions of the same tube. The tubes basically got watered down as far as minerials goes as time went by with less and less.
I wonder if the old tubes with black plates have a higher mineral consentration or just a different minerial type, might look it up later
post #4694 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

The sonics vary with the year of mfg.

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong here.

 

Tubes made in the late 50's to early 70's tend to have a better sound.  

Late 50's to mid 60's seem to sound better. (Don't ask me why)

Tubes are valued based upon:

Brand: Mullard, Amprex, Telefunken, Siemans, RCA, Valvo, etc.

Country of mfg Holland, Germany, USA, UK.

What mfg. plant produced them.

Sub-Tube type, grade  PQ, SQ, Caa, USN-CPE, CV2492 or CV2493

What type of "getter"  "D", halo, large halo, dimple getter.

Is the tube "NOS" (New Old Stock), NIB (New In Box), Used.

All of the above play a part in  determining the sound and the cost of the tube.I know 

I see. So if the tubes have grey plates + getter pan + halo getters + mfg 1971+ made in USA and has Amperex logo, is it worth $200 a matched pair?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110990134300?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

post #4695 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by kepler28nm View Post

I see. So if the tubes have grey plates + getter pan + halo getters + mfg 1971+ made in USA and has Amperex logo, is it worth $200 a matched pair?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110990134300?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

None of those things are uncommon for 70s amperex tubes. However what is good about them is that they are closely matched, nos and jan version of the tube. Which is U.S joint army/navy and had a high guide line for manufacturing. It's like the common valve(cv) the British used for Mullards. So I can see those going for 180 a pair.
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