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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 286  

post #4276 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxper View Post

I think the tube's life would die out before pin corrosion. As long as you're not using abrasive cleaning methods.

Perhaps and most probably. (your comment that is)

 

I was visualizing this tiny amount of surface corrosion creeping it's was up the glass into the cavity......

Paranoia.

post #4277 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

Perhaps and most probably. (your comment that is)

 

I was visualizing this tiny amount of surface corrosion creeping it's was up the glass into the cavity......

Paranoia.

Your placebo (paranoia) is going to cause the tubes to burn out. tongue.gif

post #4278 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxper View Post

Your placebo (paranoia) is going to cause the tubes to burn out. tongue.gif

You just saved me a ton of money on precision tube cleaning equipment.

post #4279 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

Just scored:

 

AMPEREX ORANGE GLOBE 6DJ8 ECC88

VACUUM TUBE 1969 DIMPLE GETTER MATCHED PAIR

HERLEEN NETHERLANDS

1969

 

 

 

 

1000

 

 

 

700

 

 

Wait'n to fire up the Lyr.

please make a review of those tubes!

thx

post #4280 of 8735

Ok.

I'll start with those on Friday then move to the Bugle Boys later.

I'm not going to bother with the JJ's.  Everyone has posted that there is a remarkable difference rolling those tubes....out and I'm too ADD to wait to listen to the Amprex.

 

I have no idea what to expect.

 

I've got newborn HD650's  From my reading it's going to take some time to burn them in.

post #4281 of 8735

An important note that may have been mentioned earlier in this thread.

 

Before turning the amp on after handling the tubes, wipe them off to remove any oils left by your fingers.  When the oil heats up it can crack the glass. This was in my Jolida manual.  Perhaps it's in the Lyr manual.  Perhaps it's rubbish.  At any rate it made sense to me.

 

I use the solution that I use for cleaning my camera lenses. Nothing is left on the glass.

post #4282 of 8735

Been listening with some Mullard CV2492s. In love.

post #4283 of 8735

I have a question on 220V to 120V converter to be used with schiit lyr and bifrost outside USA. I do have an converter which does 85 watts max, can I use it with Lyr and bifrost? is it safe?

 

Please suggest

post #4284 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by cthalupa View Post

Been listening with some Mullard CV2492s. In love.

Would be helpful if you could describe how it changed/improved the sound signature and what you were using before. 

post #4285 of 8735

Just ordered a pair of Telefunken 6dj8 1960's Diamond Bottom tubes.

These will be replacing the stock GE tubes. My first venture into tube rolling for the Lyr. 

post #4286 of 8735

In case anyone thinks rolling vintage tubes is Not like stamp collecting, I submit this from:

http://www.audiotubes.com

 

6DJ8:

This is the standard incarnation of this tube. It was made both in the USA and in Western Europe. GE and Sylvania both made USA versions, and are fairly good quality. The GE tubes have an RF shield sprayed on inside the glass, making the inside look dark. This is NOT an indication of a burned out or used tube. RCA tubes were often made by either Mullard or Amperex in Britain or Holland. The most popular NOS vintage tubes are those made by Telefunken, Amperex, Siemens or Mullard, and are usually also labelled ECC88. See the next paragraph for this description.

 

ECC88:

This is the European designation for the 6DJ8 type tube. It is the same tube as a 6DJ8 and often the tube has both type numbers on it. The popular vintage tubes here are those by Telefunken, Amperex, or Mullard. The Telefunken are said to sound the best, and are the most difficult to find of all of these brands. All Telefunken tubes have a tiny diamond shape molded into the glass on the bottom, and have a very chalky ink on the surface which often is partially wiped off. Beware! These tubes are being reproduced in China, and look like the real thing, complete with diamond mark. The tipoff is the label: the fake labels will not wipe off.

The Amperex can be found with a white label and the treble clef logo (rare), the Bugle Boy cartoon tube logo, Amperex in white ink, and the orange world logo. The orange world logo is the newest, and can be found in both standard "L" bracket top getter, and the rarer (and said to sound better) "A" frame top getter. The A-frame looks like a little metal "A" holding up the getter element on the top of the tube internal structure. I have also seen the A frame getter on some Mullard and Genalex (G.E.C.) tubes. The Bugle Boy is the most popular, almost to being a "designer" label, which has driven the price up and supplies down. See note below about Bugle Boy 6DJ8 tubes. I believe any of the Amperex / Philips Holland 1960s and 1970s 6DJ8 tubes are excellent, no matter which one you use. The tubes made with the plain white label (Amperex, DuMont, Hewlett-Packard, Beckman and others but all labelled "Holland") were made in the same factory as the Bugle Boy tubes and sound the same, but are often bargain priced due to low demand. Beware! The Bugle Boy tubes are being reproduced today! The box of the new tubes is even an identical green-and-yellow like the original, but it says "Bugle Boy" on it, and some even show the cartoon tube on the box. Original Amperex tubes NEVER had the words "Bugle Boy", or the cartoon tube, on the box. The Bugle Boy moniker is a slang name that audiophiles coined for the the little cartoon tube on the tube's label. The new tubes have fooled even some seasoned audiophiles! These are junky Chinese made tubes with the old label. The company vending them says they have the original burn-in racks from the old Holland factory. Big deal!! The old burn-in racks are not going to help a crappy tube. Stick with the vintage tubes while you still can!

 

Lastly there's:

 

post #4287 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

An important note that may have been mentioned earlier in this thread.

 

Before turning the amp on after handling the tubes, wipe them off to remove any oils left by your fingers.  When the oil heats up it can crack the glass. This was in my Jolida manual.  Perhaps it's in the Lyr manual.  Perhaps it's rubbish.  At any rate it made sense to me.

 

I use the solution that I use for cleaning my camera lenses. Nothing is left on the glass.

While doing this probably can't hurt, it's not totally necessary. Tubes have quite thick glass and also don't get as hot as say halogen bulbs where you absolutely should try not to touch them. 

post #4288 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicinmymind View Post

I have a question on 220V to 120V converter to be used with schiit lyr and bifrost outside USA. I do have an converter which does 85 watts max, can I use it with Lyr and bifrost? is it safe?

 

Please suggest

Contact Schiit.

Anything else would be sketchy.

post #4289 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

While doing this probably can't hurt, it's not totally necessary. Tubes have quite thick glass and also don't get as hot as say halogen bulbs where you absolutely should try not to touch them. 

Unless you're eating ribs.

post #4290 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by asmoday View Post

Just ordered a pair of Telefunken 6dj8 1960's Diamond Bottom tubes.

These will be replacing the stock GE tubes. My first venture into tube rolling for the Lyr. 

I"m geeked over this new hobby.

It's another subjective thing to talk about.  "I've found a pair of reverse label QZ800P's from Liechtenstein..... do you think they'll sound better..."  It's like Stax vs. Sennheiser.

 

I know I'm a newb and that others are chuckling because they've been doing this for decades.  How cool is it to use electronics that are 30-40-50 years old?

 

We have to start a "tube exchange" section in Head Gear.

We can figure out the t's and c's


Edited by Iamnothim - 11/21/12 at 9:50am
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