What amp for these bookshelf speakers?

Why not just get them with the T-Amp? Scroll down and you'll see it. Plus this has 3.5mm input.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemikemike 

Also, will those B652s be loud enough to fill a moderately sized room?

The DTA-1 is exactly what you're looking for.  It goes well with the B652 and is an excellent amp, especially for the price.  If your source is sufficiently high voltage (i.e. true line level), then it will be fine.

More efficient speakers match up even better with the DTA-1 as it is relatively low power - it's perfect for horns.

The B652s are excellent as well - I know it's trite to say that they perform well above their price - but in this case it is very, very true.  There is nothing comparable - not even close - available new for even close to the same price.  They aren't perfect by any means - but for what they are, they're giants.

They certainly benefit from a bit more power than the DTA-1 can provide, but the combo still works fine for all but the very high SPLs you should have floorstanders (or at least a sub to complement these) for anyway.  If you have or can get an older receiver it would work fine (if in good working condition) as UE pointed out, but for the minimal cost of the combo there's little reason not to get both the speakers and amp.

Here's the combo:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-650

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemikemike 

Is that the Dayton DTA-1 Class? Is that thing any good? (I don't really understand what an amp does, so I'm not sure if the quality of it matter.)

@Blackbeardben pretty much said everything about using that amp. As for the tech-y stuff, just Google or search here in Head-Fi, there's a bunch of posts/pages that can explain them. Take note though some of them are either too technical, or some can be too simplistic to the point of having too many fallacies about how they work.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemikemike 

I didn't want to quote both responses since that would be really long, but thank you very much! The bundle is much cheaper on that link, but currently out of stock... I'll be waiting for it though. Is it possible to use a sub with these? The back looks like it only has very few I/O connections: http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard_xtra/300-650_sii.jpg

 

Also, is there a sub that you guys could recommend to go with these?

 

Thanks again!

It shows up as in stock to me, and I was able to put it in my cart!

Yes, an active sub will work perfectly well with it.  Any active subwoofer worth its salt has line-level output as well as input, so you can send the signal to the subwoofer and then from it to the DTA-1.

The disadvantage is that you can't control the subwoofer volume with the speaker amplifier - but that shouldn't be an immediate problem for you if you're using your computer's output.

I would honestly wait to see how the speakers perform by themselves - you might be pleasantly surprised.  It's not like they are satellite speakers, and anything more than a fart-box is going to cost more than double what the speaker/amp combo costs.  Personally I wouldn't get anything less expensive or worse than the 12" Dayton sub on the PE website ($160), unless you go for something better used.

And yeah, you'll need speaker wire.  This is fine: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=109-040

Connecting a sub will depend on the connectors but yes it can be done. Get an active sub with a crossover pass through, that way you connect this to the source/DAC, then it outputs a hi-pass signal to the T-amp and it sends the low-pass signal to the sub amp.

BTW, if you'll use these as near-field monitors, why not just use active studio monitors? Samson's Resolv5 is really good, one friend had it before and another one listened to it last Sunday but ultimately decided to go for the Resolv6. At least for a bit more money you don't get a stereo amp; you technically get TWO stereo amps since each driver is wired for fully active operation. There's also the Resolv 120, a 10" 125w sub.

You can just use bare wire, you don't have to use pins but yes you would need 8 if you want to use the pins , you don't need any special tools for stripping the wire i used a pair or scissors and a stanly knife to do mine.