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Schiit DACs (Bifrost and Gungnir down, one to go)? The information and anticipation thread. - Page 213

post #3181 of 3320

Well, I have a bit of a public confession to make, as I have already, once, in the past taken apart my own Bifrost to replace its fuse with a "audiophile" fuse (which, I know sounds like audiophoolery, really did improve the sound!). I was inspired by either this thread or another here on Head-Fi where another Head-Fi'er reported an improvement, and at the time, at least, Jason implied that replacing the fuse would not necessarily void the warranty, but who knows how he'll feel now wink_face.gif.

 

Anyway, the most difficult part is, indeed, the chassis relative to the LED lights. As hard as I tried, I still couldn't quite get them lined up, and to this day the Bifrost has a bit of a dimmed quality with the lights, like they're receded a bit, but that's really not a bad thing given how notoriously bright they are, in my opinion. I also recall one of the (many, many) screws on the chassis having some difficulty threading into its standoff, but it wasn't terrible.

post #3182 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuttinbutair View Post

I have two questions that Jason could answer.  
  1. Is the new USB card able to support 32/192?  My purpose is to use Audirvana + for volume control when used in my family room stereo.  The audio chain would be Computer -> DAC -> Amp.  With 32 bits, that should provide 48 dB of attenuation before a 24 bit signal looses resolution.  This is somewhat like the M51 approach to volume control, but the risk of the computer or software error permitting full voltage signals still has me a little worried.
  2. Is the new USB card capable of Integer mode in Audirvana +?  

Currently I own a non-USB Bifrost.  I do enjoy its sound with a DI-V3 input, and the output going to my old Stax SRD-X and SR-X Mark III.  The Stax have never sounded as good as they do now.  Lately I have been contemplating a Gungnir, and if it is capable of 32/192 I may just have to order the USB option.  Now with the new Bifrost upgrade options, there is more to consider.  Decisions, decisions....  

Yes to both. Analog volume control is likely still better for sound quality, but it is 32-bit and integer mode capable with A+.
post #3183 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by judmarc View Post


Yes to both. Analog volume control is likely still better for sound quality, but it is 32-bit and integer mode capable with A+.

Thanks Jud.  Have you tried the volume control in A+ with your Bifrost?  I believe that yours has the updated USB if I remember.

 

John

post #3184 of 3320

Can anyone send in the DAC for an upgrade?

 

is it just $70? also does installing it myself require and soldering or is it all just screws and pins?


Edited by mab1376 - 4/29/13 at 12:33pm
post #3185 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by RestoredSparda View Post


Not a problem. Should arrive sometime this week. I'll document the process and pop it online for anyone interested.

Awesome, thanks!

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

post #3186 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by internethandle View Post

Well, I have a bit of a public confession to make, as I have already, once, in the past taken apart my own Bifrost to replace its fuse with a "audiophile" fuse (which, I know sounds like audiophoolery, really did improve the sound!). I was inspired by either this thread or another here on Head-Fi where another Head-Fi'er reported an improvement, and at the time, at least, Jason implied that replacing the fuse would not necessarily void the warranty, but who knows how he'll feel now wink_face.gif.

 

Anyway, the most difficult part is, indeed, the chassis relative to the LED lights. As hard as I tried, I still couldn't quite get them lined up, and to this day the Bifrost has a bit of a dimmed quality with the lights, like they're receded a bit, but that's really not a bad thing given how notoriously bright they are, in my opinion. I also recall one of the (many, many) screws on the chassis having some difficulty threading into its standoff, but it wasn't terrible.

I remembered that someone had taken it apart and talked about issues when putting it back together.  Thanks for the info!

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

post #3187 of 3320

I just ordered the USB Gen 2 since I'm going to be switching over from a desktop to a PC Laptop soon. I'll be sure to post the process/results (and pictures if someone else doesn't do it before me).

post #3188 of 3320

Hey judmarc, you also gonna take the plunge on either of these Bifrost upgrades? I only ask because I remember you being of the earlier owners of the Bifrost here on Head-Fi along with me and some others (and I think you also did the fuse swap? don't remember exactly). If not, I'll let you know how it goes with the Uber Analog board. :)
 

post #3189 of 3320

I'd also really like to see someone document the install process of the Uber Analog board.

post #3190 of 3320
^ RestoredSparda is going to document - see last post previous page.

My board shipped yesterday (I'll have no time to document the install). Looking forward to listening for changes. I'll use one of my other DACs for reference.
post #3191 of 3320

Anyone care to speculate how Schiit is going to implement DSD without requiring a different board to be installed? DSD to PCM converter?


Edited by Radioking59 - 4/30/13 at 10:10pm
post #3192 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioking59 View Post

Anyone care to speculate how Schiit is going to implement DSD without requiring a different board to be installed? DSD to PCM converter?


My guess would be a firmware update. I may be grossly miss informed though. wink.gif
post #3193 of 3320

I've taken my Bifrost apart. The Bifrost is made of two main metal parts. The light colored outer chassis and the dark colored inner chassis. First, you remove the inner chassis entirely by removing the top screws and the back screws (the ones securing the i/o connectors), and some of the bottom screws. I can't remember which of the bottom screws secure the inner chassis to the outer chassis. They are probably the outer-most screws. Most of the inner screws on the bottom secure the main board in place. Slide out the inner chassis to remove it. You will see that the main board is attached directly to the outer chassis via the other bottom screws mentioned earlier. You will need to unscrew the rest of the bottom screws to free the board.

 

Installing the USB board or other upgrades is super-easy and doesn't need explaining. If it did, then you shouldn't be taking this thing apart.

 

When you reassemble, it is important to attach the main board back onto the outer chassis FIRST via the bottom screws, so you can move the LEDs into the holes in the front using tweezers or what-have-you. Lastly, attach the inner chassis by sliding it back in and screwing the rest of the screws in.

 

If you do not fully understand what I just wrote, or if you are not good with yours hands, or if you do not know how to disassemble something perfectly and reassemble something perfectly, or if you do not know how to screw things in properly, or do not have the proper precision tools, or any other reason that may cause you to fail, you shouldn't try this. Just send it in to Schiit.


Edited by nowis - 5/1/13 at 1:20pm
post #3194 of 3320

Mine's done!  It was easy!
 

One thing I am disappointed about, I thought we were going to get the holographic sticker to put on the back of our cases...

post #3195 of 3320

By far the most difficult part was lining up the LEDs on re-assembly.  Just be patient, take your time.  Be careful the leads that connect those LEDs bend easily.

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