X-FI Titanium HD modifications

Nichicon FG caps are through-hole components (they have wires coming out from the bottom), those caps there are surface-mount.  I recommend Sanyo OScon for digital power to the DAC chip (I would need to be looking at that soundcard in person to figure that out).  They come in though-hole form or surface mount, you want the surface-mount.  For analogue power and output, you could try Nichicon surface-mount caps, but I do not know how good they are.

Most likely surface-mount Jamicons or something, lol.

They like to go cheap on circuit components but throw in a good DAC chip for decent sound.

I have tried few things on Titanium HD, and i think an external DAC is a better investment, if only the front speakers required. I haven't done experiments with Solid-polymer capacitors.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/589078/almis-x-fi-mod-hotrodding-sound-blaster-x-fi-models

Quote:

Originally Posted by krisno 

I need som information. These electrolytics on the Creative X-FI HD card, how to they compare to higher quality caps which are found on the Xonar ST? And secondly, if for example Nichion Muse or Nichion FG would be an upgrade, which caps do I need to swap here to improve the analog out? My experience with the card, compared to Audiotrak HD2, is very "bright", "harsh" and lack of bass. I presume opamp swap will change alot, but will a cap mod also help? Can anyone help - which needs swapping to improve stereo output?? (if the difference is not neglible as these might be HQ caps)

 

 

You can mod the caps but I doubt you would get the response you are looking for at a reasonable price and easy mod.  Judging by what you say is off, try some Burr Browns, they lean more to the bass area and less towards the high so they may give you the right mix you are after.  Try, OPA2134,OPA2227,OPA2228... 
 

The caps directly behind the RCA jacs are likely coupling caps & they are too small. Only 10uf. The coupling caps between the I/V amps & the buffers (220uf) are large enough not to matter in terms of bass response though you could get better clarity without them. removing & putting wire in the place of the 10uf caps will likely improve bass dramatically & doing the same to the 220uf coupling caps will bring you better clarity without losing bass.You will need 2 soldering irons to safely remove them & some fairly thin wire to make it easier to solder wir jumpers in as thick wire trnsfers too much heat & may loosen one end while soldering the other end due to excessive heat transfer.