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Etymotics hf2/hf3 MOD: Cable replacement with Apple iPhone in-line remote

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

Hey folks, figured I could post the DIY MOD I did a while back, for anyone who's looking to get a decent iPhone headset.

 

The hf2 have been on the market for more than two years now. They've undergone some slight revisions since then and etymotic even added the hf3 with volume control.

 

Back then, my hf-2 cable was beginning to show symptoms of a cable-break and since I've always hated the hideous tiny inline remote that came with it, it was time for storming the Bastille and decapition of the respecive earphones.

 

imageshack gallery:

 

http://img846.imageshack.us/g/img0360i.jpg/

 

 

Here's the result:

 

pic 1

 

IMG_0360.JPG

 

The hf2 earbud casing is glued together. once it's open you will have 3 parts: the 2 cases and the rubber strain-relief

I simply used blunt force (knife) to pry it open. If you're worried about stratches you might wanna try dissolving the glue with heat or steam (though im not sure if it'll work)

 

pic 2

 

IMG_0362.JPG

 

The driver. desolder wire and remove remaining solder. doesn't hurt writing down where which colour goes.

 

pic 3

 

IMG_0365.JPG

 

decapitate or pry open (remove the silicone ring on the earpiece. there is a small hole located at the bottom of the ring which you can use as a lever - e.g. by using a paper clip - and solder iphone cable off the driver. thread the rubber strain relief.

 

pic 4

 

IMG_0367.JPG

 

tie a knot, cautiously remove a bit of the acrylic coating on the tip of the two wires (e.g. #1 using a lighter torch (apply some saliva at the point where you'd like it stop burning or #2 use an acid or fine grained abrasive paper or #3 use your solder by applying tin-solder onto your iron until it forms a drop. run the wire through the drop, the coating will dissolve). Solder it on the HF2 drivers. After a lot of trial & error, instead of my soldering sation, i used a 2$ soldering pen and a universal dc adapter on 9V, 5$)

 

pic 5

 

IMG_0363.JPG

 

Put it all together, use superglue to keep it in place

 

pic 6

 

IMG_0375.JPG

 

Voilà! the result

 

edit: finally, pics are also available via head-fi!

 

edit:

 

-- sorry guys i just cant upload any pictures, will try editing the post a bit later --

 

still cant post pics, please refer to the imageshack gallery


Edited by funkyfunk - 4/30/11 at 3:07pm
post #2 of 4

Hi! Thanks for the post! I had already changed cable on my HF2. It was tricky :)

 

Here you can find how one Russian guy has done this two years before

http://theapplegeek.ru/archives/2656

 

But what I found personally, is that HF2 (and HF3, HF5, I think) have couple of small SMD resistors (in Y splitter) that works as attenuator (without them HF2 Knowles Acoustic drivers have less than 8 Ohm resistance). Resistors nominal value is 16 Ohm.

post #3 of 4

Sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead but I have a question. When I bought the HF3's I didn't know there was a version without the mic and volume control but I have lost the receipt and now I an unable to return them. I am also planning to recable them as well however will not having the resistor in the Y-Splitter affect the audio quality in any way?

post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneralSmirnoff View Post

Sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead but I have a question. When I bought the HF3's I didn't know there was a version without the mic and volume control but I have lost the receipt and now I an unable to return them. I am also planning to recable them as well however will not having the resistor in the Y-Splitter affect the audio quality in any way?

I didn't realize any.

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