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Asus Essence One Headphone Amp/DAC (CeBIT 2011) - Page 164

post #2446 of 3014

NICE one mate beerchug.gif

post #2447 of 3014

Wow....

post #2448 of 3014

WIMA in more details. Hope it will help anyone that's willing to put XE1 under the soldering iron.

 

As you can see why I didn't end up soldering the 0.022uF aka 22nF.

The physical size is too big and it was extremely hard press against the nichicon caps.

The 8200pF aka 8.2nF also comes in FKP 2.5% 100v but suffers the same physical issue as the 22nF WIMA caps.

 

Best suggestion to desolder caps. Use a soldering bath where possible ($15-$20 delivered on eBay, great even for beginners)

 

For tight area/trouble spot near the plastic data cable. You need to use a good variable power soldering iron $80-$120 with solder wick/braid (This is kinda hard but not jedi level, use youtube. There are plenty of video showing you how to remove solder from circuit boards) 

 

post #2449 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach3 View Post

Hehe E1 Mused up? more like in pieces at the moment. Just finish the following mods last night. Power caps done previously,replaced all the Nichicon KT to KA. Changed all 10% tolerance WIMA to 5% and 2.5%. Didn't get all 2.5%: Reason, example 8,200pF didn't fit and was obstructing placement of dual mono opamps like LME49710HA.










Original adhesive pad was very hard to remove and provided below average heat transfer IMO


Ready to rock and roll


1.0mm High quality thermal pad from EK graphic card water block. You can buy them online. $10 will cover 2 XE1 mod.



WIMA CAP:
8 x 2200pF 5% 100V (FKP) > 2200pF 2.5% 100V (FKP) Won't fit flush (Looking for better alternative, can someone comment if they found something better)
 
4 x 0.022uF 10% 100V (FKS) > 0.022uF 2.5% 100V (FKP) Done
 
8 x 8200pF 10% 100V (FKS) > 8200pF 5% 100V (FKS) Done
 
6 x 1800pF 5% 100V (FKP) > 1800pF 2.5% 100V (FKP) <-- Green in colour, not yet completed
 
Nichicon KT > KA (The replacement for KT according to Nichocon website)
14 x Nichicon KT 220uF 35V 105c > Nichicon KA 220uF 35V 105c Done
11 x Nichicon KT 100uF 35V 105c > Nichicon KA 100uF 35V 105c Done
4 x Nichicon KT 47uF 25V 105c > Nichicon KA 47uF 35V 105c Done
 
Linear PSU (Power Supply Unit)
Replaced both the 2 x 330uF & 470uF with FR (According to Panasonic website good for 10,000 hours)
 
Definitely not worried about heating issue as the whole bottom metal chassis act as one big ass heatsink!

Haha... Yeah, looks more like it's all "Mushed" up ;p

You'd remind me of the other guy that was here before he got banned. He was doing heaps of modifications too wink.gif

So what sort of differences will these modifications make? Sorry, I'm a electrical noob so have no idea ;p
post #2450 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMax99 View Post


Haha... Yeah, looks more like it's all "Mushed" up ;p

You'd remind me of the other guy that was here before he got banned. He was doing heaps of modifications too wink.gif

So what sort of differences will these modifications make? Sorry, I'm a electrical noob so have no idea ;p

I know who you referring to but. He was going way way overboard. He had WIMA caps soldered under the board. Made the board looks like it been ravage!

Hey DMax99 you want to do a mini meet. I have spare to do your power section. I just want to look at the gain section on your board. I still think I can mod mine to make the gain jumper possible. Your I know for certain it possible on your board 100%. Just need to desolder the bridge wire and solder on the pin headers. Let me know.

 

So what sort of differences will these modifications make?

 Would need to write up a mini essay to explain this one. I'll just message you the main details.


Edited by Mach3 - 8/7/13 at 11:30pm
post #2451 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach3 View Post

I know who you referring to but. He was going way way overboard. He had WIMA caps soldered under the board. Made the board looks like it been ravage!
Hey DMax99 you want to do a mini meet. I have spare to do your power section. I just want to look at the gain section on your board. I still think I can mod mine to make the gain jumper possible. Your I know for certain it possible on your board 100%. Just need to desolder the bridge wire and solder on the pin headers. Let me know.

So what sort of differences will these modifications make?

 Would need to write up a mini essay to explain this one. I'll just message you the main details.

I don't mind a mini meet, but I'm very busy this semester, juggling the uni work load, work and plus another baby coming in about 2 month. Do you mind if we meet up towards the end of the year after my exams? wink.gif
post #2452 of 3014

If you have got 6 pieces each of 5532, OPA2132, OPA2107 and 4562, in which combo (sections of E1) would you prefer to use them?

 

HPs used are K701 and HD598. The music preferences are jazz vocals, western classical.


Edited by shyamelge - 8/8/13 at 8:41am
post #2453 of 3014

After using 4562s in both I/V and LPF sections for 5 days, today I switched back to  5536 in I/V (and 4562s in LPF) to get back more airyness and detailed sound. This works out be a better combo than having 4562s in both sections. 

post #2454 of 3014
Have you tried vacuum tubes? I hear the Chatham 6AS7G has good synergy with the Texas Instruments opamps. wink.gif
post #2455 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyamelge View Post

Oh...That's great! I very much look forward to your experiment. 

Just finished a quick comparison of 4x 4562 vs 4x Muses01 in I/V with 2x Muses01 in LPF. I don't think by having 2x Muses01 in LPF is going to make that much difference to the sound. Not only the 4x Muses01 in I/V give a more forward vocal sound, the rest of the music (eg. instruments in the background) are much more detailed too.

So if I was you, I wouldn't be bothered with just 2 Muses01. I would probably just wait until you have saved up enough or wait for some headfiers to sell theirs for a 2nd hand price.

As for myself, I think I am going to leave my op amp set up as it is for now. The only thing I will probably try is to get 2x LME49710HA for the headphone section (I have also tried 2x Muses01 in the headphone section with not much sound improvements).

I also agree that there must be a reason why the Asus Engineers have 6x Muses01 set up for the MUSE E1, because all the op amps are working best at those positions to produce the best sound possible! biggrin.gif
post #2456 of 3014

Thank you for sharing your experience. 

 

Your advise and suggestions are well understood and noted.  

post #2457 of 3014

And If I may ask you, the differences between 4562 and Muses01 are kind of last 5 percent - purely in terms of sound quality? Or more?

post #2458 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyamelge View Post

And If I may ask you, the differences between 4562 and Muses01 are kind of last 5 percent - purely in terms of sound quality? Or more?

Sorry I couldn't really understand your question. From what I have heard, I reckon in terms of vocal forwardness and details, the Muses01 is probably 30-40% better than the 4562. When I compared them, I didn't mind the 4562, but I preferred the Muses01 because of that 30-40% difference. To me, they made the sound much more lively!

However, I still don't know if they are worth the $250+ for me to recommend you to get them smily_headphones1.gif

ps. I think you also might need a pretty decent headphone to hear the differences.
post #2459 of 3014

Wow! 30-40 percent up from 4562 is a huge jump.

 

Perhaps that's why, muses command  a hefty premium over other op amps. 

 

If one conclusion I could draw from your experience is that rather than spending money (and time) on trying a number of lower-priced op amps, it is better to buy muses in one go and settle the matter, at least for a considerable time till another new hi-end op amp surfaces and ups the competition.

post #2460 of 3014

you procured muses from where? any links?

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