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Asus Essence One Headphone Amp/DAC (CeBIT 2011) - Page 163

post #2431 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMax99 View Post


Does the serial make a difference?

JRC who makes them told me to order the same serial. I've got no idea why, better matching I guess. Might have to email them to find out why.

post #2432 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMax99 View Post


Does the serial make a difference?

It does and it doesn't, let me explain, the i/v users x4 opamps should all be the same serial, however buffer should also be the same but you could use a different serial, and HP or XLR buffer doesn't have to be the same as long as the 2 going into the buffer are the same

 

Simples popcorn.gif

post #2433 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach3 View Post

JRC who makes them told me to order the same serial. I've got no idea why, better matching I guess. Might have to email them to find out why.

I see, I wonder if they meant same series in each section or same series for ALL 11 spots
post #2434 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMax99 View Post


I see, I wonder if they meant same series in each section or same series for ALL 11 spots


Yes uniformation

post #2435 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandah View Post

It does and it doesn't, let me explain, the i/v users x4 opamps should all be the same serial, however buffer should also be the same but you could use a different serial, and HP or XLR buffer doesn't have to be the same as long as the 2 going into the buffer are the same

 

Simples popcorn.gif


I dont think that really answered the question. Why should ANY of them be the same serial?

 

Is there wide variances in their production runs?

 

Have they made unpublished changes to the design of the chip?

 

Or is it just a lead in to get the buyer to ask "well how do I get all the same serial?", to which they reply: "well the only way is to buy them from one of our authorized, high priced resellers of course!"

 

Or does it make no difference at all and its just another snake oil "audiophile" BS thing to get everyone who cares worried about?

 

And by same serial do you mean sequential serial numbers?

post #2436 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post


I dont think that really answered the question. Why should ANY of them be the same serial?

 

Is there wide variances in their production runs?

 

Have they made unpublished changes to the design of the chip?

 

Or is it just a lead in to get the buyer to ask "well how do I get all the same serial?", to which they reply: "well the only way is to buy them from one of our authorized, high priced resellers of course!"

 

Or does it make no difference at all and its just another snake oil "audiophile" BS thing to get everyone who cares worried about?

 

And by same serial do you mean sequential serial numbers?

Could be a combination of a lot of things, different time, design, materials, contractor, facility, the list could be endless

post #2437 of 3076

As the Muses 01 opams are so expensive and not widely avaliable, I have used some more time to roll (and rock :)  ). Very good combination was OPA 2132P at I/V and OPA 2107 at LPF. Clear, strong and dynamic sound, just a little V shaped with elevated low and high end, which means not perfect for classical music. After spending almost the whole day in swapping lm4562, lme49720, lme49860, ad797br, opa627au, opa2132, opa2107, lt1028, ne5532 in all combinations I found that the winner in sound and stability is lt1028 at I/V and opa627au (all smd single chips on adapters). It is totaly transparent, no adding (like sss at highs) or missing any detail. Dynamic and impact is fantastic, fluid and lifelike.

It is true that chips at LPF give more signature - good combination was stock ne5532 at I/V with opa627au at LPF, with darker presentation and strong bass that can help some headphones to sound better. It would be helpful if somebody with Muses opamps try the above combination and share impressions. At  this moment my search to improve E1 is finished.

Best regards,

Damir
 


Edited by DMarasovic - 8/7/13 at 2:32am
post #2438 of 3076

Thanks for your feedback on rolling a variety of op amps.

 

I can try OPA 2132P and OPA2107 combo.

 

2132P or 2132PA version?

post #2439 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyamelge View Post

Thanks for your feedback on rolling a variety of op amps.

 

I can try OPA 2132P and OPA2107 combo.

 

2132P or 2132PA version?

It is OPA2132PA ordered directly from TI.


Edited by DMarasovic - 8/7/13 at 3:26am
post #2440 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post


I dont think that really answered the question. Why should ANY of them be the same serial?

 

Is there wide variances in their production runs?

 

Have they made unpublished changes to the design of the chip?

 

Or is it just a lead in to get the buyer to ask "well how do I get all the same serial?", to which they reply: "well the only way is to buy them from one of our authorized, high priced resellers of course!"

 

Or does it make no difference at all and its just another snake oil "audiophile" BS thing to get everyone who cares worried about?

 

And by same serial do you mean sequential serial numbers?

Don't shoot the messenger, you could email JRC. :p 

tkitada@njr.co.jp  <-- link provided

 

Cheers!

post #2441 of 3076
Hey Mach3, is your E1 Mused up?
post #2442 of 3076

Do I need to burn-in when new op amps are installed? If yes, for how many hours?

post #2443 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyamelge View Post

Do I need to burn-in when new op amps are installed? If yes, for how many hours?

You could I guess, I always noticed a difference as soon as I swapped an opamp.

 

If you don't like the change in sound immediately odds are it's not going to change drastically

enough for you to like it 100 hours later.

post #2444 of 3076

valid point.

post #2445 of 3076
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMax99 View Post

Hey Mach3, is your E1 Mused up?

 

Hehe E1 Mused up? more like in pieces at the moment. Just finish the following mods last night. Power caps done previously,replaced all the Nichicon KT to KA. Changed all 10% tolerance WIMA to 5% and 2.5%. Didn't get all 2.5%: Reason, example 8,200pF didn't fit and was obstructing placement of dual mono opamps like LME49710HA.

 

 

 

 

Original adhesive pad was very hard to remove and provided below average heat transfer IMO

Ready to rock and roll

1.0mm High quality thermal pad from EK graphic card water block. You can buy them online. $10 will cover 2 XE1 mod.

 

WIMA CAP:
8 x 2200pF 5% 100V (FKP) > 2200pF 2.5% 100V (FKP) Won't fit flush (Looking for better alternative, can someone comment if they found something better)
 
4 x 0.022uF 10% 100V (FKS) > 0.022uF 2.5% 100V (FKP) Done
 
8 x 8200pF 10% 100V (FKS) > 8200pF 5% 100V (FKS) Done
 
6 x 1800pF 5% 100V (FKP) > 1800pF 2.5% 100V (FKP) <-- Green in colour, not yet completed
 
Nichicon KT > KA (The replacement for KT according to Nichocon website)
14 x Nichicon KT 220uF 35V 105c > Nichicon KA 220uF 35V 105c Done
11 x Nichicon KT 100uF 35V 105c > Nichicon KA 100uF 35V 105c Done
4 x Nichicon KT 47uF 25V 105c > Nichicon KA 47uF 35V 105c Done
 
Linear PSU (Power Supply Unit)
Replaced both the 2 x 330uF & 470uF with FR (According to Panasonic website good for 10,000 hours)
 
Definitely not worried about heating issue as the whole bottom metal chassis act as one big ass heatsink!
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