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The SkeletonDAC - Page 10

post #136 of 222

Yeah, thats what I was worried about. Oh, well, I guess I will try to fix it.

post #137 of 222

You could make a special tip for soldering gun, if you have one. I did one in the past and desoldering chips was a piece of cake.

post #138 of 222

I bought a couple of PCBs today. I'm doing a Cmoy first, then I'll get to this. I hope it's good (and I don't screw it up)! :)

post #139 of 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post

I bought a couple of PCBs today. I'm doing a Cmoy first, then I'll get to this. I hope it's good (and I don't screw it up)! :)


Take it slow.  Make sure you're properly organized before you start with all the right tools, etc.  That way, all you have to focus on is the handling and soldering of the very small parts.  The SkeletonDAC website can clue you in to all the tools and setup you need.
 

 

post #140 of 222
Thread Starter 
tomb is correct - building a DAC is about taking your time and not getting frustrated.
post #141 of 222

Netdewt, I don't know what your experience level is, but I successfully built a gamma-2, prototype skeleton-dac and grub-dac in that order with zero background in surface mount soldering.  In each case I had to reflow a connection or two and remove one or two solder bridges.  Use really good lighting, and some type of magnification can be a huge plus (for me it's essential).  I learned a lot from watching a few technique videos, for example from curious inventor.  Good luck and don't hit the redbull too hard before you start!

 

BK

 

 

post #142 of 222

Thank you for the tips.

 

I have a Weller solder station, flux pen, and desolder braid stuff. So far I have mostly made cables and done small projects like adding an AUX in to my car stereo.

 

I already have a Shigaclone in my queue and I've been afraid to start because of my experience. I ordered a bunch of free sample ICs last year and I've been searching for projects to use them with (two were OPA2132PA and PCM2704). Every January I get a DIY itch, so I decided to so the Cmoy, then ran across the SkeletonDAC. After all that I'd like to re-cap my speakers and maybe my amp.

post #143 of 222

Any chance you guys can fix the Excel version of the BOM on the website?

 

http://www.diyforums.org/SkeletonDAC/SkeletonDAC-bom.php

post #144 of 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post

Any chance you guys can fix the Excel version of the BOM on the website?

 

http://www.diyforums.org/SkeletonDAC/SkeletonDAC-bom.php


Fixed!  Sorry about that!
 

 

post #145 of 222

Thank you.

 

I know LEDs do not matter, but I was thinking of using the same one I use in my Cmoy. The one you have suggested is 3.5V, and the one I want to use is 2V. Is this possible? Is there a resistor value that can be changed?

post #146 of 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post

Thank you.

 

I know LEDs do not matter, but I was thinking of using the same one I use in my Cmoy. The one you have suggested is 3.5V, and the one I want to use is 2V. Is this possible? Is there a resistor value that can be changed?


My guess is that it won't really be an issue - current is more important, but let's see if cobaltmute will reply with the authoritative answer.
 

 

post #147 of 222
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post

Thank you.

I know LEDs do not matter, but I was thinking of using the same one I use in my Cmoy. The one you have suggested is 3.5V, and the one I want to use is 2V. Is this possible? Is there a resistor value that can be changed?

Since you've built a cmoy, you likely know tangents tutorial and how to find the right resistor value wink.gif Rail voltage is 5v (straight from USB) You would adjust R6 to get your desired current. I prefer no more than 1mA in the LED, but that choice is yours. I dislike overly bright LEDs
post #148 of 222

Built one succesfully! Had a previous GrubDAC experience and the SkeletonDAC was very similar so had the routine down. Proper light, helping hands, keeping the parts in bags until they get out on the board and everything went nicely. First startup - no identification / light on LED, turns out one of the pads on L1 was not soldered so fixed that. Light on LED but malfunction recognition on PC - some reflowing on the U1 and one final test for the evening and everything worked great!

 

Will attach it to a PCI bracket and stuff it in my HTPC, will hopefully beat the Realtek ACL850 sound quality wise.

post #149 of 222

...that said, I thought I had it working ;). It seems to go mute / non mute / mute / non mute / mute / non mute as I hook it up. The USB connection is ok, tried on two computers with a mini-b and direct contacts. Any ideas?

post #150 of 222
Thread Starter 

What exactly do you mean by mute/non-mute?

 

Does the DAC "detach" for the PC?

 

Is it just the sound that stops playing?

 

If it is just the sound, what player are you using?

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