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the CTH (Compact Tube Hybrid) Rev A thread... - Page 29

post #421 of 568
Thread Starter 

That is one cool looking CTH! It might be cool to get a socket saver so the tube sticks out more. The side effect of this is the tube has more ventilation.

post #422 of 568

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by pabbi1 View Post

 

Pin 1 to Pin 6 is .6v - across 2 tubes... just making sure, but heater switch "ON' is 6.3v with the default resistor values, using H1 & H2?


Now that's some unique casing:)

We don't look for measurements between the 2 plates, we are looking for 80v or so for each of pin 1 & 6 WRT ground SG/IG.

Yes heater switch on = 6v, open = 12v.   Your CTH seems healthy so far, maybe time for listening:)


Edited by cfcubed - 3/9/12 at 2:49am
post #423 of 568

DOH... maybe...  tonight.  :-)

 

Proving, once again, that there is a DIY Lowest Common Denominator - no matter how many projects you have logged.

 

 

post #424 of 568

Don't be so hard on yourself man,  esp for DIY things that happen later at night.

Otherwise I might have to tell my story about dialing up VR2 on a b22 board thinking I was adjusting the offset:/


Edited by cfcubed - 3/9/12 at 6:27am
post #425 of 568
If anyone needs boards pm me. I have two
post #426 of 568

Yep, all fine - just need to let it burn in.   :-)

post #427 of 568

Ok gang - need your experience and wisdom. While trouble-shooting why I was missing my left channel, I attempted a measurement between pins 4 & 5 of the tube socket. At that moment, I figured out that I shouldn't do that :-) Wasn't sure if readings should have been taken relative to SG, or between 4 & 5. As a result, I no longer go green. I still measure 12V at OG, but no longer at OL and OR. In reading/studying the diagrams, It seems likely that I popped the BJT's in the rail splitter. Any help in the steps to track down the problem would as always, be greatly appreciated.

 

And another newbie question. When doing the diode test on the BJT's, should it ALWAYS read 0 with black lead center red L/R when the transistor is installed in a non-powered board?

post #428 of 568

Went to order some parts at Mouser, and found this out of stock:

 

71-RN55D-F-22.1/R

R9L+R,R10+R,R2S,R3S
71-RN55D-F-22.1/R
1/8watt 22.1ohms

 

Any suggestions on a replacement? It's not coming back in stock till May.

post #429 of 568

71-RN55C-F-22.1
 

+/- 50 PPM/°C ("C spec") instead of +/- 100 PPM/°C ("D spec") and bulk package instead of reel package (/R) but otherwise interchangeable.

post #430 of 568

http://www.head-fi.org/t/417322/cavalli-compact-tube-hybrid-cth-tube-tweak-thread/630#post_8133807   and before for someone else's buffer repair.

 

BTW you are supposed to measure V between tube heater pins 4 & 5 that's part of the diag instructions from my sig.

But you aren't supposed to short something while doing it:).  Taping your probes tips such that only a mm or so is exposed helps.

. Meter resistance won't cause problems in voltage setting BUT amperage setting would for example.
Edited by cfcubed - 3/11/12 at 4:44am
post #431 of 568

Thanks for the clarification. My pins are taped and I really thought I got in without shorting, but apparently not. I was testing V. Any suggestions on where to start if OL and OR are not up to V?
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post

http://www.head-fi.org/t/417322/cavalli-compact-tube-hybrid-cth-tube-tweak-thread/630#post_8133807   and before for someone else's buffer repair.

 

BTW you are supposed to measure V between tube heater pins 4 & 5 that's part of the diag instructions from my sig.

But you aren't supposed to short something while doing it:).  Taping your probes tips such that only a mm or so is exposed helps.

. Meter resistance won't cause problems in voltage setting BUT amperage setting would for example.


 

post #432 of 568

Thanks MisterX!
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterX View Post

71-RN55C-F-22.1
 

+/- 50 PPM/°C ("C spec") instead of +/- 100 PPM/°C ("D spec") and bulk package instead of reel package (/R) but otherwise interchangeable.



 

post #433 of 568

 

Hey all - t I could really use your help. My CTH is output 24V from the reg, but I have no output on OL and OR.I'm trying to learn the CTH circuit and electronics, and I've hit a wall. 

 

Here's some readings that seem interesting to me, and may be of help to you.

 

K1E (Relay)

 

Pin 1: ~24V

Pin 2: ~23.4V

Pin 3: ~23.4V

Pin 4: ~

 

Pin 5: ~24V

Pin 6: ~12V

Pin 7: ~12V

Pin 8: ~

 

IC1

 

Pin 1: ~6.8V

Pin 2: ~12V

Pin 3: ~12V

Pin 4: ~

Pin 5: ~24V

Pin 6: ~20V

Pin 7: ~11.8V

Pin 8: 23V

 

IC1S

Pin 1: ~203mv

Pin 2: ~12V

Pin 3: ~12V

Pin 4: ~

Pin 5: ~203mv

Pin 6: ~24V

Pin 7: ~12.7V

Pin 8: ~

 

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. 

 

post #434 of 568

Anyone? blink.gif

post #435 of 568
Well prior to the apparent mishap during your heater measurement I suggested some things in this post:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/542279/the-cth-compact-tube-hybrid-rev-a-thread/405#post_8196001

Now that you also seem to have problems in your railsplitter and/or output buffer, using the shotgun approach, I'd replace all the BC* TO92s in both. If a full-on inspection showed no wrong devices, orientations or solder joints.
Others could suggest likely parts to replace in order of replacement but that can lead to frustration so I've done the above and ended up happy.
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