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the CTH (Compact Tube Hybrid) Rev A thread... - Page 26

post #376 of 568
Thread Starter 

i just went ahead with your advice and bought .15uF Sonicap Gen 2s ie anything from .1uF to .22uF should work in the CTH C4 position. They are the same length, but slightly thicker, so they should be just as easy to install. The guys over at Sonic Craft said that the sound signature shouldn't change a bit from .22uF to .15uF. I've tried the Wima MKP, MKS, Auricaps, and Sonicap Gen 2s and liked the Gen 2s the best. They just seem to have a bit more detail and don't roll the highs or lows like the Auricaps seem to do. The Wimas were ok with the MKP series being a tad bit better. They are coming out with a few new lines of caps later this year so I'm curious what they have up their sleeves being that the Gen 2s are a nice bang for the buck.

post #377 of 568
Anoher excellent choice are the multicap rtx
post #378 of 568

I couldn't find any decent perf, so I decided to hack the hammond top.  OMG, making your own perforated material with a hand drill is labor intensive!  Nearly 300 carefully placed holes later, chamfered on each side, and I think it's looking pretty darn good.  I hope the blisters heal quickly.

 

Also added a heatsink to ICH today.  Moments later I took delivery of my new Russian 6N6P tube.  It's still early, but I like this tube!  Low amplification, very low microphonics, good sound.  Spectacular tube glow - that's worth the price of admission right there.  Hopefully I'm not stressing the CTH too much...

 

BK

 

t54m4l.jpg

 

 

post #379 of 568

>  Russian 6N6P  ...  Hopefully I'm not stressing the CTH too much.

 

Nope, 750ma +/- 50ma is fine w/the new/Dec2011 BoM 1A rated heater coils/chokes & the little ICH heatsink  (<<< BK's ICH temp measurements were too high for comfort - see my post below).  Agree, nice heater glow on that 6N6P.

 

Looks great!   Man that's some patience doing those holes esp. w/a hand drill!    See the headphone 1/4" jack is clear, is that 3.5mm input below it?


Edited by cfcubed - 2/3/12 at 3:08am
post #380 of 568

Yep, 3.5mm input is below the 1/4" jack.  Nice and short internal wiring far away from the PS sections.  Sounding really nice with the LCD-2.

 

Sure is toasty....after 45min my thermocouple is measuring 127C at the surface of the tube and the top rear of the case is 56C.

 

BK

 

post #381 of 568
Thread Starter 

Perf material is easy to find if you know what you're looking for. I just found an old trash bin at work that looks ripe for the pickin. It's got a diamond shape perf material to it. Just need to use tin clippers and then a hole punch and it's good to go.

 

BK~ Great job on the holes. I definitely don't have the patience for that type of thing. Good going!

post #382 of 568

I also make the rounds looking for inexpensive/free materials for builds, but haven't located nice perf material myself.   And haven't ordered it through say:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1002&step=2&top_cat=1

Mullet nicely sent me a couple cut pieces when he'd spares.

 

BK & I've been exchanging PMs about his CTH & temp readings.  He's reported alarmingly high temps for ICH specifically w/6N6P in his build, so I've edited my post above about this.

We want to see all comps <= 85C, preferably lower.   "Standard" builds running the originally recommended max heater draw (< 600ma) have had temps measured & found to be OK.

And though new BoM heater parts are rated 1A+, with extra draw comes extra heat. 

When reaching for higher-draw tubes consider bottom & back plate 1/4"+ holes w/taller feet to allow cool air to enter (& hot air to exit).  May also have to get creative w/heatsinks on ICP & ICH.

post #383 of 568

if anyone is looking for a board let me know. I got one in the last group buy and will not have the time to try and build one.

post #384 of 568

As CF3 mentioned above, with the 6N6P tube my ICH and ICP were running too hot.  I measured the actual component temps with a micro thermocouple.

 

Project "COOL THE CTH" is now underway.  Supplemental big beefy custom fit heasinks and bunches of holes on the underside should help!

 

BK

 

2dw6ni0.jpg

post #385 of 568

Added a bunch of medium holes on the bottom and several small stealth holes on the sides near ICP and ICH.  Also ten more holes near the tube to help tube ventilation (and add some style).  I'll avoid medium vent holes in the sides if I can help it - too hard to hand drill through the pcb slots with a hand drill and have it look good.  After the additional heatsinks and ventilation I should be done!  Will grab some comparison component temps later.

 

BK

 

143nvpv.jpg

 

alpxjn.jpg

 

post #386 of 568

>  with the 6N6P tube my ICH and ICP were running too hot.

 

Re-clarifying this, the ICH was especially hot (ICP not beyond acceptable) & its because of use of a low heater voltage (6.3v) tube having high draw (> 500/600ma).   

This is because the heater switcher having to work harder to chop its incoming 38v or so & cut it down to 6.3v while passing more amperage. 

Note: SMPS is far superior efficiency/heat wise then common linear methods of doing this, and CTH could not achieve anything near it's small form-factor, and have single 24VAC supply, without it.

 

You'd not have to go to these extremes in a "standard" build targeting "recommended" tubes (see CTH tubes in my sig). 

But it's been said many times that even standard CTHs using target tubes benefit from good ventilation.

 

BK - Being into heat-sinks myself I have to say those are some macho sinks you have there:)   And though isolating thermal pads are recommended, the tabs on ICH & ICP = ground so that's not a concern.


Edited by cfcubed - 2/4/12 at 6:55am
post #387 of 568

BK, your either a Zen Master or a madman. biggrin.gif

 

Eitherway, the results are impressive and way cool (pun intended).

 

I still cannot believe you hand drilled and finished over 300 holes....

post #388 of 568

Very nice BK!! :)

 

If someone wants to upgrade their CTH, i'd recommend getting a Belleson Super regulator to replace the 24V 7xxx series one in the amp for powering the LV buffer stage.

post #389 of 568

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post

>  with the 6N6P tube my ICH and ICP were running too hot.

 

Re-clarifying this, the ICH was especially hot (ICP not beyond acceptable) & its because of use of a low heater voltage (6.3v) tube having high draw (> 500/600ma).   

This is because the heater switcher having to work harder to chop its incoming 38v or so & cut it down to 6.3v while passing more amperage. 

Note: SMPS is far superior efficiency/heat wise then common linear methods of doing this, and CTH could not achieve anything near it's small form-factor, and have single 24VAC supply, without it.

 

You'd not have to go to these extremes in a "standard" build targeting "recommended" tubes (see CTH tubes in my sig). 

But it's been said many times that even standard CTHs using target tubes benefit from good ventilation.

 

BK - Being into heat-sinks myself I have to say those are some macho sinks you have there:)   And though isolating thermal pads are recommended, the tabs on ICH & ICP = ground so that's not a concern.


Just call me a macho zen master madman.

 

I'm embarrased to admit that in my excitement I was using 12.6V on the 6N6P tube  confused_face.gif

 

I didn't realize the incorrect heater setting until CF3 mentioned 6.3V.  Oh well, I feel better with a special super-cooled CTH regardless.  Will grab some updated measurements and report back.

 

BK


 

 

post #390 of 568
Quote:
Originally Posted by BK_856er View Post     I'm embarrased to admit that in my excitement I was using 12.6V on the 6N6P tube  confused_face.gif
 


Oops:)  I guess that nice, bright tube glow & 120C+ tube top measurement were trying to tell us something:)

Well the tube was drawing 10W+ and the CTH was holding its own.   Now it will do even better with your mods, e.g. no worries w/800ma draw tubes for you.

 

BTW I've occasionally used the wrong heater setting for brief periods.  Dead giveaways for that are 1) 6.3v for 12.6v tube - lower-than-normal gain, 2) 12.6v for 6.3v - tube brighter-than-normal filament glow.

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