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Head-Fi Buying Guide (Over-Ear Headphones)
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ATH-M50 Open Mod - Page 4post #46 of 5910/10/12 at 11:20pmWhere did you get/buy your steel mesh speaker grill to cover the hole?
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #47 of 5910/11/12 at 10:19amQuote:
It's not speaker grille; speaker grille is far too stiff to work with. You can buy simple steel mesh in sheets off of amazon's industrial category. You need to get thin mesh; if it's thick you won't be able to do anything with it. You'll need shears to cut it.
You can also make your own using wire that you have lying around. This is harder though, so keep that in mind.post #48 of 5910/11/12 at 10:35ampost #49 of 5910/11/12 at 11:37amQuote:
That works too, LOL.
Edited by takato14 - 8/28/13 at 9:03pmpost #50 of 5910/11/12 at 3:40pmpost #51 of 5910/11/12 at 3:48pmpost #52 of 5910/11/12 at 10:54pmpost #53 of 5910/12/12 at 10:03am
The plastic on the inside of the brushed aluminum ring should be cut away. Put the mesh inside. I haven't worked with the M50 so I don't know the size of the insides.post #54 of 591/2/13 at 1:48pmpost #55 of 594/27/13 at 9:56pm
Bump. Can either the OP or new guy with the silver grills post some pictures of how they did it? It would be a great contribution to the community! (Hopefully you have pictures, and don't have to disassemble the headphone again :( )post #56 of 594/29/13 at 10:37amQuote:
Hi, I'm one of the original guys who did this mod.
Actually, you can find some very fine meshes within kitchen utensils. -> the one I used was a a flat mesh you cover your pans with to prevent the hot grease from spitting everywhere.
As I am not a native speaker, I don't have a clue how to call this thingy~
As for a tutorial:
Step 1: get some tools, preferably a Powertool/Dremel
Step 2: work
Step 3: your done :D
seriously, don't take this personal guys, but I don't get you, like at all :D
-Just take the headphones apart, then route through the center of he cup until you almost touch the "metal-ring". beware, you'll slice through this ring like butter.
-Remove the ring, it's just glued in.
-file the last few mm by hand and make it look tidy.
-insert the mesh with glue onto where you have taken out "the ring"
-glue it in place and reassemble the cups.
oh, and you might wanna dampen some part of the inner cups, because you should take out the white flat dampening.
But the driver itself is a bit dampened on its own and they are quite sturdy and open -> ressonances shouldn't be worse then on a K701 (hahaha, seriously... they are just plastic)
sorry, I didn't responde until now... I kinda dislike head-fi due to thei Censoring and hyping everythig they get sponsored by. Also, all the Voodoo and Cable-Cult. And... Grado (Seriously they all are horrid, except for the JoeGrado HP1k which got discontinued.
If anyone doesn't feel like he/she is able to perform this mod,
I still have a pair of modded cups which are looking for a new owner
-> PM, I don't want much, but beware, I'm shipping from Sauerkrautland (Ger).post #57 of 598/8/13 at 1:21pmpost #58 of 597/20/14 at 1:23pmSo I decided to take the plunge and try this mod. Damn,I really need to brush up on my soldering skills. Long story short: much better soundstage at the expense of bass quantity. Highs are a bit harsh,tempered by re-inserting the original foam insert. Overall I am very happy I took the plunge. Feels like a proper open can but with the bass of a regular M50 (more or less). But be sure to put the original foam insert back in else the treble sounds way overpowered.post #59 of 597/20/14 at 1:58pmActually,I must say I am very happy with this mod. Brought new life to my M50s. Very enjoyable listening to them, especially with tracks that I used to consider closed or confined. Everything is now spacious and with a lot more breathing room. It was a bit of a mission to do but overall really easy. Yes, I was worried I'd mess up my cans but all turned out well. There is marginally less bass but it's worth it. Do it!
Edited by Jumba - 7/20/14 at 1:59pm
- ATH-M50 Open Mod
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