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Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners - Page 296

post #4426 of 13019

The T1, for sure, the headphone out will be ideal.  The HE-6, probably not.  The Marantz will have a dropping resistor in the headphone jack, and 26 watts is into 8 ohms, not the 50 ohms of the HE-6.  Try it and see, but you may need the speaker taps for the HE-6.  I use the headphone out for my HE-6, but my Marantz 2285 is 85 wpc, and so it is still several watts via the headphone out, into 50 ohms. But again, try it and see!

post #4427 of 13019

Thank you, Sir.

 

This is the video that pushed me over the edge into MarantzVille...and I don't even speak spanish. smile.gif

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFzvR30Y3rE&feature=related

post #4428 of 13019

I got a Marantz 2225 the other day, in a package deal together with a Marantz 5020 cassette deck and a LP player from Marantz also. The receiver and the cassette deck was in such excellent condition that I was amazed. They had been sitting in a rack for 35 years, but after som dusting they are as good as new. Right now the 2225 is playing Tool - Lateralus into my Denon hp's, and the bass is killing me :)

 

2225 001.jpg

 

A week ago a bought a Marantz 2270 in need of repairs. Still waiting for the return of the 2270 but now that I have the 2225 I feel I really don't need it. Could maybe be useful if I get a pair of orthos in the future. I've read in this thread that the muscles of the more powerful receivers are good with the orthos like the ones from Hifiman.


Edited by trentino - 3/23/12 at 12:38pm
post #4429 of 13019

That's a minty looking 2225 you've got there, really purdy too! if you plan on holding onto her, consider getting her recapped. The sound difference between old and new caps is truly black and white. and I don't mean "audiophile night and day", I mean a tin eared teenager like myself let out several joyous obsenities at the difference.

 

Pics of the cassette and turntable? I love marantz gear

post #4430 of 13019

How much does a good recapping cost usually? I may be looking at recapping my Optonica (not sure whether I want to include the 2 15,000 caps or not, they're probably pricey, haha).

post #4431 of 13019
If you can someone to do it locally probably 150$ give or take. If u have to ship it you can add at least another 100$ to that.
I'm considering getting my 2245 recapped and cleaned thoroughly. Got a guy an hours drive that does vintage audio repair. He might cost me 175$.
Then locally I have some friends that own a musician equipment repair shop. Theyl probably charge me 40 to 60 plus parts. That's if they want to do it.

I'd just have a good talk with whoever it is and make sure they understand what it is they are working on. Your baby that's why you are spending good money having her rejuvenated.
post #4432 of 13019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickmonk View Post

That's a minty looking 2225 you've got there, really purdy too! if you plan on holding onto her, consider getting her recapped. The sound difference between old and new caps is truly black and white. and I don't mean "audiophile night and day", I mean a tin eared teenager like myself let out several joyous obsenities at the difference.

 

Pics of the cassette and turntable? I love marantz gear

 

The 5020 really lights up very nice! I'm gonna keep it just to look at :)
 

5020 005.jpg

 

M 6100 .jpg

post #4433 of 13019

If you have the time, I think the DIY route is toltally worth it. I intend to do my 2265B this summer. I doubt anything is wrong at this time, but I'll feel better knowing its done. I plan to to my speakers at the same time. Else, like Rawrbington said, look for the local guys. I've found a few folks capable in my area.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taowolf51 View Post

How much does a good recapping cost usually? I may be looking at recapping my Optonica (not sure whether I want to include the 2 15,000 caps or not, they're probably pricey, haha).



 

post #4434 of 13019
Quote:
Originally Posted by wotts View Post

I checked mine and found it to be 9mV on the left and 20mV on the right. Going to look up the service manual for the 2265B now. I'd like to see if I can dial it further down.



 



Quote:
Originally Posted by BmWr75 View Post


You are worried over nothing.  Be happy your receivers measure so good.



 



Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post



Honestly I am not sure with those numbers that I would mess with it.  It can be VERY difficult to get old trip pots to adjust precisely.  You might not be able to get the numbers to be better, and you might make it worse.  Just FWIW.

 

Amen!
 

 



 



Quote:
Originally Posted by wotts View Post

 

I thought that might be the case. I did find the manual last night, and process is rather simple. I doubt I'll do now. It was nice to see all the specs on the unit too.



I copied the following from another site, hope it helps.

 

 

If you read:

0 - 15mV: Damn good!! If you read '0V', you may have a capacitor output, or your meter is set wrong

16mV - 50mV: An acceptable value, especially at the lower end of this range. 2nd harmonic distortion is probably twice to four times what manufacturer's spec calls for at higher frequencies. Probably not audible, as the distortion is mostly in the upper octaves. At the upper end of this range I begin to raise an eyebrow.  

50 - 85mV: Something is certainly amiss, and while this is not enough to put your speakers or equipment in jeopardy, the amp is running nowhere near where it should. I'd venture to guess that most of the DC-coupled amps that are in use by forum members here fall into this range.

100mV to ?: A high enough voltage will cause the DC protection to kick in. This happens at a level determined by the designer, but is usually equivalent to about a diode drop (600mV)or so. Needless to say, if you are listening to an amp with 100mV or more of DC offset, you have no idea what the amp really is supposed to sound like. Indeed, some amps without a differential input are actually designed to have a bit of DC at the outputs, but this is triple-rare, and I don't think anyone here owns one. (in my book it's piss-poor design, but if you can sell it WTH..)

 

post #4435 of 13019
Regarding recapping, it depends heavily on the receiver. And yes, if you include the main filter caps, the expense goes up a LOT.

I am having my SX-1280 recapped right now, and the parts cost alone is about $250, but it is a BIG powerful receiver AND that includes about $150 for the four main filter caps.
post #4436 of 13019

Recapping can easily cost more than the old receiver itself, specially if you use audiophile grade capacitors. I replaced the 3 old filter caps on my amp, 2 - Mallory 800MFD, $25 each, 1 - 150MFD, $15, plus shipping. I did it myself.

 

I also recapped my other little tube amp, the caps cost me $150 + ship, did it myself also.


Edited by wuwhere - 3/24/12 at 10:22am
post #4437 of 13019

Why-oh-why did I start looking at this thread?! 

 

I don't _want_ to buy more gear.... but now I've found a Yamaha A-760 and a Sansui AU-D7 locally (same price).  Any thought on which would be preferred when used as a headphone amp?

post #4438 of 13019

The only thing I saw that could create a problem for a headphone listener was the strange "taper" or "law" of the Sansui's volume control, as described in the review in Gramophone.

post #4439 of 13019

Thanks for the link to the review :)
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

The only thing I saw that could create a problem for a headphone listener was the strange "taper" or "law" of the Sansui's volume control, as described in the review in Gramophone.



 

post #4440 of 13019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post

Regarding recapping, it depends heavily on the receiver. And yes, if you include the main filter caps, the expense goes up a LOT.
I am having my SX-1280 recapped right now, and the parts cost alone is about $250, but it is a BIG powerful receiver AND that includes about $150 for the four main filter caps.


What brand of caps are you having put into your unit? 

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