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Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners - Page 288

post #4306 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by palmfish View Post


Of course those publications are completely factual and unbiased...rolleyes.gif
The fact is that "probable cause" articulated in a sworn affidavit before a judge is required to get a search warrant. High power consumption alone is insufficient to establish probable cause. I'm thinking there are some pertinent facts being excluded from the stories you have read.


One of the people who's home was raided back in 2004 lived one town over from me.   The electric company alerted the police to the families "excessive" usage.  So they observed the home and on garbage day they saw the owner taking the trash to the curb just as the garbage truck was pulling up wand found that behavior "suspicious".  Then they brought in a drug sniffing dog.  The dog apparently reacted "positive"  when walked "near" the home.  A warrant was issued and the police broke into the home which had no small effect on the mother at home and her two small children.  What did they find?  Simply a household that had been using a large amount of electricity and absolutely on sign of any illegal activity whatsoever. Those were all the pertinent facts shown to the judge. 


Edited by WarriorAnt - 3/8/12 at 4:45pm
post #4307 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarriorAnt View Post


One of the people who's home was raided back in 2004 lived one town over from me.   The electric company alerted the police to the families "excessive" usage.  So they observed the home and on garbage day they saw the owner taking the trash to the curb just as the garbage truck was pulling up wand found that behavior "suspicious".  Then they brought in a drug sniffing dog.  The dog apparently reacted "positive"  when walked "near" the home.  A warrant was issued and the police broke into the home which had no small effect on the mother at home and her two small children.  What did they find?  Simply a household that had been using a large amount of electricity and absolutely on sign of any illegal activity whatsoever. Those were all the pertinent facts shown to the judge. 


As far as you know...

 

post #4308 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by RexAeterna View Post

i'm totally jelly right now. i can never for the life of me score good kenwood stuff. not at all for some reason. my luck seems to be either sansui,yamaha or other brands. never kenwood. kenwood gear everytime i find some they're either very bad condition or very over priced locally. actually that's kinda a lie cause when i scored that yamaha m-45 power amp for 40 bucks about month ago i found a very heavy and pretty kenwood KR-7070 receiver i believe was the model for 75 bucks. wood cab looked good but i was so drawn to the yammy i lost total interest in the other stuff at the trading post.

This M2A is a monster, it drives headphones with authority. Turning the gain knobs a little past 9 o'clock is as far as I can go with my Q701s before I risk hearing damage. There's deep black background, neutrality, and no coloration at all, just brute force. I have no doubt it would grab cans like the HE-6 by the scruff of the neck and make them do what it wants. I'm sure it would look at amps like the Darkstar and Lyr and say, "well, that's cute, let me show you something". wink.gif
Edited by Magick Man - 3/8/12 at 7:09pm
post #4309 of 13341

Would the Sansui 6060 be enough to drive my Hifiman He-5le? Its only 75$ 

To be honest, I have no idea what to look for in a vintage amp. 

post #4310 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by AppleDappleman View Post

Would the Sansui 6060 be enough to drive my Hifiman He-5le? Its only 75$ 

To be honest, I have no idea what to look for in a vintage amp. 

 

It shouldn't be an issue at all.  I'm assuming the 6060 put out about 40 watts per channel.  The headphone section of the vintage Sansui receivers (as well as other vintage receivers) is really good.  I have a Sansui 881 pushing my HE-5LEs and it does an excellent job.  I feed my Sansui with a Squeezebox as my music source.  Most of my files are in FLAC format.
 

 

post #4311 of 13341

Have a Sansui 9090. That my friend rocks some headphones.

post #4312 of 13341

 

My Vintage Iron isn't heavy enough (SX-650). Anyone set to do some Spring cleaning?

popcorn.gif

post #4313 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meewoo View Post

LOL!

Hope you get your HK pre sort out!!
There is a Kenwood C2(?)  Pre at my local for $100 some time now, and no one bites. I checked AK and some Kenwood fans there gave a lot praise for KA-7300 Pre-part.
Did HK make Citation in the same period with 770? What's the model of Citation? Upon looking the impressive building quality of HK 770, I think Citation series in the same age should be top notch.

edited: I found it, what a amazing citation http://www.thevintageknob.org/harman_kardon-Citation_XX.html

thanks. thing is everything perfectly works except the pre-out in the back(using headphones is perfect on the headout). probably need rca jack replacements but when i was testing it the couple transistors in the case seem like what's used to drive the preouts gets insanely hot after few seconds so that is possibility why it's dropping channels out so i have to figure something out. if not tonight i be at local shop tomorrow morning to drop it after cause the tech i know has over 30 years experience working on audio gear and electronics and knows how to do a great job,and knows his stuff on what parts work with what and know how to retune anything. he tweaked my yamaha's a bit when he fixed them and got them sounding better then ever. same thing with every other receiver/amp i brought him.

not costly either. i never paid more then 100 bucks with him to get an amp fully serviced and fully tweaked. he just charges me for the parts and not really for any labor at all. awesome thing is after he's done his work he shows me what he did and how he did it and why. reason why i keep going back.

this weekend i don't know what model but the guy i got the H/K 770 power amp and h/k 775 pre combo from asked if i want a big realistic receiver and couple turntables that been sitting around so i be getting a hold of them this weekend also. i believe pioneer OEM realistic stuff right? i know lot of their speakers were pioneer rebranded.

yea i believe H/K tried making the hk 700 series almost identical to the earlier Citation series and by that keeping their units completely discrete with no ic's and dual power transformers. H/K stuff was manufactured in japan so not much people really cared for them but in recent times the Citation power amps and preamps been pretty high demand. kinda like yamaha where they kept their designs pretty much the same but just with more power output.
post #4314 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magick Man View Post

This M2A is a monster, it drives headphones with authority. Turning the gain knobs a little past 9 o'clock is as far as I can go with my Q701s before I risk hearing damage. There's deep black background, neutrality, and no coloration at all, just brute force. I have no doubt it would grab cans like the HE-6 by the scruff of the neck and make them do what it wants. I'm sure it would look at amps like the Darkstar and Lyr and say, "well, that's cute, let me show you something". wink.gif

i can see why. it's just a power amp so it's all about power and transparency. the coloration always comes from the preamp or preamp section. power amps are usually design to be completely as transparent as possible. thing is odd i never knew much power amps at having headphone jacks. that's actually a rarity. usually it's on the preamp so your basically getting more of a pure signal from it without the coloration of the preamp. curious,what do you have plugged in the inputs? reason why, higher the voltage you feed the inputs of the power amp,higher the voltages will get fed to the headphone output. same with preamps. using a balanced,high voltage sources with atleast a +4dbu gain(1.23v RMS) can have some pretty amazing results with these amps.
post #4315 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by RexAeterna View Post

i can see why. it's just a power amp so it's all about power and transparency. the coloration always comes from the preamp or preamp section. power amps are usually design to be completely as transparent as possible. thing is odd i never knew much power amps at having headphone jacks. that's actually a rarity. usually it's on the preamp so your basically getting more of a pure signal from it without the coloration of the preamp. curious,what do you have plugged in the inputs? reason why, higher the voltage you feed the inputs of the power amp,higher the voltages will get fed to the headphone output. same with preamps. using a balanced,high voltage sources with atleast a +4dbu gain(1.23v RMS) can have some pretty amazing results with these amps.

Right now It's hooked up to my Little Dot DAC_I.

Output Voltage:
RCA non-balanced output: 2V (RMS) per channel
XLR balanced output: 2 x 2V (RMS) per channel
Power Consumption: 10 VA
Fuse Rating: 1A
post #4316 of 13341
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magick Man View Post

Right now It's hooked up to my Little Dot DAC_I.
Output Voltage:
RCA non-balanced output: 2V (RMS) per channel
XLR balanced output: 2 x 2V (RMS) per channel
Power Consumption: 10 VA
Fuse Rating: 1A

very interesting seeing an unbalance signal having such a high voltage output. usually unbalanced sources are -10dbv rating which is well under 1v . looks good though. maybe one day you can see how the matching kenwood C-2 preamp sound with the power amp and compare difference between using the little dot and kenwood as a pre like. have you ever tired balanced xlr to rca jacks to see how it's like because they do make balanced rca jacks with separate ground wiring for each plug. i use balanced 1/4'' TRS to RCA jacks for my interface. i also use the headphone jack as extra output. not really any difference but i like using balanced sources just for the higher voltage outputs and if i need to use directly as a passive preamp if needed.
post #4317 of 13341

Newegg was having a sale on these subwoofers (half off w/ free shipping). I bought two: one for my home theater, and another for my 2 channel system. 

 

I tried looking up how to connect a subwoofer to a vintage receiver, and the best recommendation I could find was hooking the subwoofer up to the "B" speaker outs. However, I read a couple posts saying the A+B outputs need to be in parallel and not in series. I have a LUXMAN R-1050 and Marantz 2252 (prefer the Lux). Does anyone know if either of those are in parallel, or how I could find out?

 

Another question: Is it possible to hook up both subs to a vintage receiver to do the separate L/R signals?

 

Another question: Same as above, except with my home theater receiver, a Marantz SR6005. It has two subwoofer line outs, but the manual says they output the same signal. Is there also anyway I could make that receiver do L/R subs too?

 

sr6005.jpg

 

Thank you!


Edited by Philimon - 3/9/12 at 8:01am
post #4318 of 13341

Those pictures are pretty low res, but if I read them right, then the sub has speaker level inputs for the right and left channel? If so, just connect those to the B speaker inputs.  This will work fine.  A powered subwoofer presents no meaningful load on the receiver.

post #4319 of 13341

The Newegg pics you have to click zoom-in a couple times, then it takes a few seconds for the hi-res pics to load. 

 

Thank you Skylab for the info. I will do as you recommended. However, I still need to know if these receivers are in parallel or not.

post #4320 of 13341

Wait, do you mean for a powered subwoofer that in-series or parallel does not matter?

 

And if I wanted to hook up both subs to a vintage receiver, would it be okay if I just hooked up the receiver's speaker left output to one sub's left speaker-in, and then the right out to another sub's right speaker-in? I know that question sounds self-explanatory, but I am a total noob with subs, and I don't want to damage anything. It's also confusing cause each sub has both inputs for L/R, so it is confusing. Does it need both hooked up to work? Why just use one sub, when there are 2 channels of music? Seems like there should be just one set of inputs on a sub, just like a speaker.


Edited by Philimon - 3/9/12 at 8:50am
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