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Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners - Page 850

post #12736 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamaster View Post
 

Everyone, I am new to the vintage stuffs. I just bought my first vintage gears, a pair of Sony TA2000F and TA3200F off daBay. The owner said he bought them in the 70s when they were new and kept them in "like new" condition. I think I overpaid them at $1001 USD for the pair. The pair showed up in the original boxes with all the manuals that included service manuals, original cables, etc. just like you just bought them from the store. Since they are my first adventure to vintage audio, I did not know what to expect, such as the speaker terminals do not take modern connectors so I have to order adapters for them. I could not hook them up to compare them to my Mac right now but I did a quick test with my headphones from the HP out. It is a typical old design, the HP out put at 110 Ohm even thougth amp's damping factor is at 170 (my Mac is 40). There are scratchy sound at extreme frequencies from HP out. I hope they sound clean from speakers. Here are some pictures:

 

 

 

They look very clean for old gears. Can someone tell were they recapped or all original?

 THAT is an understatement.  They look NEW. 

 

Gorgeous stuff - congrats and welcome to the vintage thread. 

post #12737 of 16886

Yup, definitely original Elna caps.  Beautiful condition.  Nice find.

post #12738 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogsurviver View Post
 

I concur with most of the above - except Blackgate caps. I have heard horror stories regarding long term ( just a few years... <5 ) reliability of these caps - some of them went to eternal hounting grounds much sooner than expected ! 

 

"Any" modern freshly produced electrolytic capacitor from your around-the-corner electronic parts shop was an "upgrade" to those iffy Blackgates - at the price, they should last at least half as much as those originally fitted in the vintage gear. In general, the progress in electronics parts is quite real over say last 30 or so years in capacitors; now they are either/or/and smaller for given capacitance, pack much more capacitance in the same volume, can run at higher temperatures, are more reliable, offer less parasitic electrical characteristics - in short, offer better performance. 

 

Well, it has been at least 5 years now and the tuner still sounds incredible.  Upon installing them there was an immediate (and huge) improvement in its sound.  The Blackgate refurb was actually recommended at fmtunerinfo and has, at least for me, worked out well.

post #12739 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeakerBox View Post
 

 

Well, it has been at least 5 years now and the tuner still sounds incredible.  Upon installing them there was an immediate (and huge) improvement in its sound.  The Blackgate refurb was actually recommended at fmtunerinfo and has, at least for me, worked out well.

Great to hear the opposite regarding Blackgate - enjoy while it lasts :L3000:.

post #12740 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogsurviver View Post
 

Great to hear the opposite regarding Blackgate - enjoy while it lasts :L3000:.

 

Just did a double check over at fmtunerinfo.com and they are still recommending them. Either they are unaware of the issue or it may be overblown.  Either way, you may want to let them know what your experience has been with them.


Edited by SpeakerBox - 6/18/14 at 10:39am
post #12741 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeakerBox View Post
 

 

Just did a double check over at fmtunerinfo.com and they are still recommending them. Either they are unaware of the issue or it may be overblown.  Either way, you may want to let them know what your experience has been with them.

It could have been a batch problem - and certainly hope not some fake problem. But a dry electrolytic capacitor is a dry electrolytic capacitor.

 

Be it as it may, I FAR prefer film caps and use them whenever there is a mildest chance for them to fit to the volume available. That goes usually up to 47 uF, ocassionally streeeetching that to 100 or so uF. Trouble is, any PCB borded by film caps of these value in any normal quantity required is going to look extremely untidy - so no

XXXXXXX rated capacitor porn:evil: (TM, copyright, etc by aS ) pics. 

 

The pictures of the Sony right out of time warp machine are simply too tidy - no way film caps can be used to look anything as neat - unless the whole PCB is redesigned for them. 

 

I did stumble upon similar time warp machine - a Technics ST-9030 tuner that was sooo new there were absolutely no marks in its "FM scale light system" due to lamps that leave a "scorch" mark after only a couple hours of operation on the screen surrounding them. Reason ? Failed on/off switch - which is burried so clumsily one has to dismantle everything to gain access to be able to replace that switch. Rather to butcher everything, I short circuited the failed switch and placed a night lamp type switch to the power cable - "and it was living happily ever after" - practically the first time for any apreciable amount of time after being manufactured in late 70s.

post #12742 of 16886

Ya, got some big films in my tuner too.

post #12743 of 16886

I am waiting on a set of banana to pin adapters and a pair of RCA cable because my current system is balanced. I did test the preamp with my headphones, it sound little scratchy on extreme frequencies. I may needs to replace those electrolytic capacitors and get a new volume pot like tkd volume pot (or maybe something better). What do you guys think?

 

As for the electrolytic caps in my 3200F (8000uf 80v x2), which cap should I get? I am thinking Mundrof or Epcos. Those two has the best spec.


Edited by Seamaster - 6/18/14 at 12:42pm
post #12744 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeakerBox View Post
 

Ya, got some big films in my tuner too.

I actually managed to get by completely without the use of electrolytic capacitors in one device - the amp for the Stax SR001MK2 electrostatic in ear headphones. Only for the experiment, as permanent version would require the place for the batteries to be usurped for the bigger capacitors, some chopping of the box, etc.

 

But one day, I will do it permanently. I remember my producer to comment while listening to the masters just recorded the previous day :

 

".... this sounds sooo alive, so pulsating - totally unlike recording/reproduction, music is really like that in real life!"

post #12745 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamaster View Post
 

I am waiting on a set of banana to pin adapters and a pair of RCA cable because my current system is balanced. I did test the preamp with my headphones, it sound little scratchy on extreme frequencies. I may needs to replace those electrolytic capacitors and get a new volume pot like tkd volume pot (or maybe something better). What do you guys think?

 

As for the electrolytic caps in my 3200F (8000uf 80v x2), which cap should I get? I am thinking Mundrof or Epcos. Those two has the best spec.

Hey there, if I had to throw a guess, the volume pot in there is probably milspec and will be better than anything else you can put in there. The build quality on those Sony's is usually amazing. It is completely normal to have some scratchiness on old units. The first course of action is to clean out all the pots and switches with deoxit. If that doesn't do the trick, then maybe think more intrusive. Look through the last week or so and I'm sure you'll find a link to the deoxit for dummies link.

post #12746 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoenixG View Post

Hey there, if I had to throw a guess, the volume pot in there is probably milspec and will be better than anything else you can put in there. The build quality on those Sony's is usually amazing. It is completely normal to have some scratchiness on old units. The first course of action is to clean out all the pots and switches with deoxit. If that doesn't do the trick, then maybe think more intrusive. Look through the last week or so and I'm sure you'll find a link to the deoxit for dummies link.
What does cleaning pots with Deoxit do? I don't have any hiss or anything. Should I clean mine with it anyway?
post #12747 of 16886

If you're not having any issues, then you don't need to mess with anything. 

post #12748 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoenixG View Post
 

Hey there, if I had to throw a guess, the volume pot in there is probably milspec and will be better than anything else you can put in there. The build quality on those Sony's is usually amazing. It is completely normal to have some scratchiness on old units. The first course of action is to clean out all the pots and switches with deoxit. If that doesn't do the trick, then maybe think more intrusive. Look through the last week or so and I'm sure you'll find a link to the deoxit for dummies link.


And here's how.............http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005

post #12749 of 16886
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamaster View Post

 

As for the electrolytic caps in my 3200F (8000uf 80v x2), which cap should I get? I am thinking Mundrof or Epcos. Those two has the best spec.

 

Could get expensive with Mundorf.

post #12750 of 16886

I thought the volume pot is the weak link for this model. I looked inside of mine, I was not impressed by the volume pot that is very small and looks pretty weak.

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