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Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners - Page 837

post #12541 of 13893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenophon View Post
 

Just purchased a Pioneer SX-1980 on ebay in Europe.  Important as that's where it's going to be used and transport costs are killer on this thing + what sours the deal on most US-purchased equipment are the import duties and the VAT.  I'll have to get myself a voltage step-down transformer though as the unit works on 120 VAC, the original owner who brought it to Europe was in the US military.

 

To be honest it's a big gamble.  Totally out of my depth here and I'm relying rather heavily on the opinions of Skylab and a couple of others who are very happy with it driving the HE-6 via the headphone out.

It's superb with the HE-6. I once had the SX-1280 driving the HE-6 out of the headphone jack and boy, does it give music through the 6 a very muscular body ! You will not regret it.

post #12542 of 13893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenophon View Post

Just purchased a Pioneer SX-1980 on ebay in Europe.  Important as that's where it's going to be used and transport costs are killer on this thing + what sours the deal on most US-purchased equipment are the import duties and the VAT.  I'll have to get myself a voltage step-down transformer though as the unit works on 120 VAC, the original owner who brought it to Europe was in the US military.  

To be honest it's a big gamble.  Totally out of my depth here and I'm relying rather heavily on the opinions of Skylab and a couple of others who are very happy with it driving the HE-6 via the headphone out.  And despite the bulk I really dig the looks smily_headphones1.gif  but don't look forward to hauling it up the stairs in my house.  Just one question:  I'll be feeding it via RCA via AUX I suppose, the signal will come from my V800 DAC which has switches allowing me to set the gain.  Can I leave it at standard redbook voltage output or do I dial in -3dB (or +3,6,9, or 12 dB)?

Standard red book is fine, but actually I would probably use -3dB as you will have more play on the 1980's volume control.
post #12543 of 13893
I envy Americans of their Craiglist and great cheap deals. :P In Europe everything is so expensive. Gratz on the purchase Xeno! How much did you pay it for it?
post #12544 of 13893

About 970 GBP (1200 EUR, 1600 USD) + 60 EUR delivery in Europe and of course no bloody customs duty.  BTW:  if you think customs duty and VAT are bad:  Ebay is increasingly proposing a system where goods get delivered DDP and you pay the duty taxes and fees on checkout, I've done the math and those guys take a VERY healthy cut indeed.  Problem is you've no choice on auctions where it is proposed.  .

 

It's this one:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-SX-1980-/221432130930?nma=true&si=RAIpOQRNpgo3ChkDhWg3Uy5Ia7Y%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

Actually no idea about the price, I think it's reasonable provided nothing blows when I first plug it in (note to self:  don't forget the converter).  There's a yoputube video where you can watch the actual unit hooked up to speakers but be warned:  terrible music.  Anyway, I budgeted an additional 400 EUR or so to change capacitors if needed.  But it's certainly true that this kind of stuff is as a general rule a whole lot cheaper across the pond.

post #12545 of 13893
Wow big price but cosmetic condition is excellent! Cant wait for your impressions! Hope it works well!
post #12546 of 13893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenophon View Post
 

About 970 GBP (1200 EUR, 1600 USD) + 60 EUR delivery in Europe and of course no bloody customs duty.  BTW:  if you think customs duty and VAT are bad:  Ebay is increasingly proposing a system where goods get delivered DDP and you pay the duty taxes and fees on checkout, I've done the math and those guys take a VERY healthy cut indeed.  Problem is you've no choice on auctions where it is proposed.  .

 

It's this one:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-SX-1980-/221432130930?nma=true&si=RAIpOQRNpgo3ChkDhWg3Uy5Ia7Y%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

Actually no idea about the price, I think it's reasonable provided nothing blows when I first plug it in (note to self:  don't forget the converter).  There's a yoputube video where you can watch the actual unit hooked up to speakers but be warned:  terrible music.  Anyway, I budgeted an additional 400 EUR or so to change capacitors if needed.  But it's certainly true that this kind of stuff is as a general rule a whole lot cheaper across the pond.

I'ive noticed this also when i buy stuff in the U.S. i never pay import fees to Canada and with the Global Shipping Program you pay a so called  import fee most of the time what a Scam !!!  i dont buy from the sellers that use that program.

post #12547 of 13893
$1,600 us for a SX-1980 in good cosmetic and electrical condition is actually a very good price based on what's typical.
post #12548 of 13893
You can keep the gain on default and simply use the knob on the front of the V800 to adjust signal strength to suit your receiver as needed.

That's what I do with my 980 and it gives far better control than the volume pot on the Pioneer itself.
Edited by Pudu - 5/12/14 at 9:03pm
post #12549 of 13893

You're right about the volume knob of course, reason why I prefer to coarsely set the pre-gain via the DIP-switches is that using the volume knob to attenuate has an influence on the data word-length and hence accuracy (DAC-volume should always be kept as close to max as possible) whereas using the switches circumvents this.

 

But all the above is theory, I very much doubt that it'll make an audible difference.  Looking forward to trying it out.  I hesitated until the last moment before pulling the trigger, the strongest contender was something totally different:  a vintage Fisher tube amplifier.  I'm cursed because I like both a good ss amplifier and good, musical but not too syrupy (=well-built) tubes.  The Fisher was cheaper not to mention a lot more subtle in appearance but as far as I could see it required major restoration work.

post #12550 of 13893
No man, you made the right choice. The Pioneer is a work of art - a big, huge, hulking work of shiny, knobby art.

If it sounds anything like its little, little brother, it should be plenty musical without being overly dark or warm. I love my tubes, but the Pioneer might be my most enjoyably fun sounding amp.

By the way, I think Fried made an argument that controlling the volume in the digital domain has as many advantages as disadvantages vs the analog controls.
Edited by Pudu - 5/12/14 at 10:32pm
post #12551 of 13893

Got the Yamaha A-500 yesterday. Sounded great for 5 mins and then a loud crackling started on the left channel.. I thoroughly cleaned everywhere with deoxit but the same thing still happens- 5 mins of clear sound and then it starts again. None of the controls affect it, even when the volume is down its still there! :confused_face_2:

 

Quite annoying because it sounds really nice. Any thoughts? 

post #12552 of 13893
Quote:
Originally Posted by LugBug1 View Post
 

Got the Yamaha A-500 yesterday. Sounded great for 5 mins and then a loud crackling started on the left channel.. I thoroughly cleaned everywhere with deoxit but the same thing still happens- 5 mins of clear sound and then it starts again. None of the controls affect it, even when the volume is down its still there! :confused_face_2:

 

Quite annoying because it sounds really nice. Any thoughts? 

Well, Deoxit is not THE cure for all.  What you describe is a component on the brink of its lifespan; can be capacitor (if you are lucky), can be an unobtainium semiconductor (if you ran out of luck). Can also be a bad solder joint - whatever it is, it is obviously termperature dependant, it works cold and after heated to (ab?)normal operating temperature, it causes the described trouble. Service guys use cooling sprays to isolate the culprit , available in electronic parts stores.

Just do not try fixing it with your most valuable speakers or phones attached - if it decides to go kaboom and take as much as possible with it ... Preferably, hook it to an oscilloscope and safely observe what is going on.

 

ALWAYS worth checking out the SERVICE manual for the likely cause(s):

 

http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/a-500.shtml

post #12553 of 13893
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogsurviver View Post
 

Well, Deoxit is not THE cure for all.  What you describe is a component on the brink of its lifespan; can be capacitor (if you are lucky), can be an unobtainium semiconductor (if you ran out of luck). Can also be a bad solder joint - whatever it is, it is obviously termperature dependant, it works cold and after heated to (ab?)normal operating temperature, it causes the described trouble. Service guys use cooling sprays to isolate the culprit , available in electronic parts stores.

Just do not try fixing it with your most valuable speakers or phones attached - if it decides to go kaboom and take as much as possible with it ... Preferably, hook it to an oscilloscope and safely observe what is going on.

 

ALWAYS worth checking out the SERVICE manual for the likely cause(s):

 

http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/a-500.shtml

Thanks bud, yeah I've safely stored it away in the cupboard of spare parts. Not going to risk doing anything more with it, as it was cheap and cheerful anyways. Least it gave me a small taste of Yamaha. And I enjoyed all 5 mins of it! 

post #12554 of 13893
Quote:
Originally Posted by LugBug1 View Post
 

Thanks bud, yeah I've safely stored it away in the cupboard of spare parts. Not going to risk doing anything more with it, as it was cheap and cheerful anyways. Least it gave me a small taste of Yamaha. And I enjoyed all 5 mins of it! 

I hope to see the day I can say i've enjoyewd all 5 decades of Transcriptors Vestigal tonearm - still 1.3 decade to go...

post #12555 of 13893
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogsurviver View Post
 

I hope to see the day I can say i've enjoyewd all 5 decades of Transcriptors Vestigal tonearm - still 1.3 decade to go...

:beerchug:

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