Quote:
OK, now that does sound like a problem now. I thought I must have entered the wrong email address or something, but I guess that's not the case then. Doesn't exactly give you confidence in the company...
Quote:
OK, now that does sound like a problem now. I thought I must have entered the wrong email address or something, but I guess that's not the case then. Doesn't exactly give you confidence in the company...
I've sent three emails and gotten three responses back within 36 hours or so. All came back in my spam box. maybe check there.
I did check the spam. Nothing. Maybe it's a problem between his email account and mine (hotmail), although I'm not sure why that would be...
Hmm not sure Maybe you can try a different email then? I use google or aol.
I use gmail and didn't get any responses. I'm not worried about it anymore. The amp is running great, I just had a few questions I wanted to ask him and I got ducked out on. Disappointing.
Its currently out of stock. Anybody looking to sell their's off? PM me and we can discuss about it
I'm looking at getting a new amp soon. I'm looking at the UHA-4 and the C421.
Anyone have a comparison between the two?
Nevermind. I found my answer...
Decisions, decisions....
Originally Posted by ClieOS 
Leckerton Audio UHA-4 with OPA209
Build Quality: ●●●●● (Excellent)
Power: ●●●●● (Plenty)
Power Drop: 1.6%
Output Impedance: ●●●●● (0.1 Ω)
Portability: ●●●●○ (Slim but wide)
Speed: ●●●●● (Excellent)
Transparency: ●●●●◎ (Good)
Soundstage: ●●●●◎ (Good)
Coloration / Neutrality: ●●●●● (Really neutral, somewhere between the two C421)
EMI: ●●●●○ (Low)
Hissing: ●●●●● (dead silence)
Remark: UHA-4 with OPA209 is the most expensive amp of the batch (and in fact cost over $200 when shipping is included) but also has the best balance between subjective sound, objective measurement as well as real world practicality. Sonic wise, it is a close blend between C421-AD8620 and C421-OPA2227, with some of the detail and resolution of the former and the richness of the later while still remains mostly neutral and transparent. I still prefer C421-AD8620 over UHA-4 but it is a really close call. The only part of UHA-4 that doesn’t sound quite as perfect is its overall resolution and rendering of space. It is really good, but not great. Measurement wise, UHA-4 is almost as good as O2 in every area. Size and weight wise, UHA-4 is slim and easy to carry around. The USB DAC itself is really good as well. Not ObjectDAC level but definitely gives E17 a good run for its money even though it is just a good old 16/44.1 USB DAC. Oh, there is also a crossfeed if you need it. In many ways, UHA-4 reminds me of my trusty Meier Audio 3MOVE, but in a much smaller package. If you must spend $200 for an amp/DAC with the best combination of sound quality and functionality, this will be the one to get.
[Ranking]
2. JDS Labs C421-AD8620 / Leckerton Audio UHA-4(OPA209)
guys should i take OPA209 or AD8610 for my UHA-6.MKII? which one is the best fore Treble and mids? don't count the Bass since Japanese music don't have much of it
btw OPA627 is bad for Treble so wont take it at all :P
209 is the most transparent so IMO it fleshes out the treble even more so and for me makes it fatiguing to listen to for long periods of time. 8610 has clarity emphasis on its mid range while still remaining relatively neutral. It also has a slight hint of warmth so it adds a little fun to the sound. Treble isn't compromised at all on the 8610.

209 is the most transparent so IMO it fleshes out the treble even more so and for me makes it fatiguing to listen to for long periods of time. 8610 has clarity emphasis on its mid range while still remaining relatively neutral. It also has a slight hint of warmth so it adds a little fun to the sound. Treble isn't compromised at all on the 8610.
Thanks!
Can someone please compare the Leckerton Audio UHA-4 to the FIIO E17? Need a new portable dac/amp combo to drive my modded T50rp.
UHA6 MKII or Tralucent T1.
Hi, I have owned both of this amps concurrently and while very good I would opt for a higher end model. A D-Zero would be more like a side step so a higher model from either manufacturer would be IMO the way to go. Good luck.