Be a part of the community.
It's free, join today!
Recent Reviews
-
A very all-round headphone for me. Just the right one to take on the go or on holiday. Also as a DJ, nice noice isolation. Very durable so you don't have to wonder if it will break if you throw...
-
This quick review is done after a few hours of listening. I bought them from B&H for the decent sum of 150$. If you've done your research you'll find out that Ultrasone HPs are known for their...
-
I auditioned the SRH-1840 straight out of the box, and was unsatisfied with the sound, so I decided to give them a period of break-in. Recent scientific studies have shown definite differences...
-
I didn't think of TEAC when I began searching for a dedicated CD player. My initial short list included Denon, Cambridge, Marantz, Onkyo. The Teac intrigued me, so I went for it. It is very...
-
short terms: compact, loud, nice sounding, cheap ultraportables. detailed terms: AKG in the house ( fun, smooth, bassy, bright-warm & clear presentation ) cool for mainstream song...
Head-Fi Sponsors
Magnavox 9302 wont start up.
- dogwan
- Trader Feedback: +4
-
- offline
- 202 Posts. Joined 5/2009
- Location: Portland, OR
- Select All Posts By This User
2amp slo-blow should be used although I used a 3a fast blow with no problems.
If you haven't already I would just remove the Molex connector all together. From the schematic you should be able to tell which legs to cut a switch in the circuit. You will also want to put 390Ω resistors in the circuit to replace the balance pot on the preamp (sound will be at diminished level until you do). Also I can send you a detail of a mod to the transformer so that it's happy with modern mains (120v) vs. 1960's mains (117v).
I'm on my way out the door but I've put one of these to stand alone use before and can help if you need it. In fact I have another in the garage waiting to be modded.
Got it working, pins 1 and 10 needed to be jumped, but my molex was in backwards so that caused confusion.
Would be interested in the transformer modification.
I already planned on getting the 390 ohm resistors along with recapping it.
Do i need to replace all the capacitors or do only certain ones (signal) matter?
Anything else I should do?
Btw, I would like to incorporate a subwoofer/lfe output for a powered sub. whats the best way to do this? I assume i could run both channels to the subs speaker level inputs but it dont want to add extra complexity to the path.
Edited by pHEnomIC - 12/28/10 at 10:55pm
- dogwan
- Trader Feedback: +4
-
- offline
- 202 Posts. Joined 5/2009
- Location: Portland, OR
- Select All Posts By This User
Hey pHEnomIC,
1st off, let me just say I'm not an expert or an EE. But I am more than happy to share my experience and help as best I can. Everything I share I have done and have not had any problems, but please use your due diligence and use safe practices with the high voltages present.
Okay the transformer trick involves putting the secondary taps for the pre-amp power (BRN-YEL/BRN) in series with the primary side. You can do this temporarily by taking out your jumper from 1-10 and putting in two jumpers: from 1-3 and 7-10. Make sense? What this does is two things: one, it ties up the loose secondary wires that are not being used (used to send 6.3v to the preamp filaments) and two, it essentially puts a big resistor in series to drop the primary voltage closer to the 117v the transformer was designed for. After I did this on mine the transformer ran a lot cooler and all the voltages came down really close to spec. Before this trick the heater voltages were too high and the tubes were running quite hot as well as the B+ being too high. This trick was shown to me by one of the members over on the Magnavox users group at Yahoo.
That being said it looks like on the schematic you posted that some mods were already done to maybe drop the voltages? If so maybe you don't need to do this. PLEASE only do this mod if you determine that it is necessary. I don't want to be responsible for damages to your amplifier because of mods already done to it. If you need I have a copy of the schematic that has the voltage specs on it (factory) and can e-mail that too you if you need to check it.
I would still highly recommend you take the Molex plug out. A jumper is just a temporary measure and if you take out the Molex connector you can wire in a switch, a fuse, and also wire in a grounded 3-wire plug (HIGHLY recommended because with an ungrounded metal chassis you're asking for trouble).
Do i need to replace all the capacitors or do only certain ones (signal) matter?
If the multi cap can is still functioning you're ok for now but I would buy the caps to replace it because it will go eventually. It is close to 50 yrs. old. Modern electrolytics are really small and easy to tuck in the chassis. It's also a good idea to bump up the capacitance a little. But beware that one leg should remain close to the stock value. I can't recall which one but I think I have it written down somewhere what values I used.
Other than that replacing the 4 signal caps with quality ones is a nice thing to do. Again here you want to stay pretty close to the stock value to avoid oscilation.
You really want to run your SUB-out from your preamp at line level. You want the volume controlled the same as your input to your amplifier. If you put sub connections on this amp all your really doing is drawing from the input not the output. Unless your talking about using speaker level inputs to your sub in which case I believe you're asking for a headache. The output transformers on the Magnavox were originally intended for 4Ω speakers. They do OK with normal 8Ω's but adding a second pair of speaker outs totally changes the equation. And I would be suspect running one set of speaker terminal to the sub then connecting speakers thru the sub would also mess with the impedance.
Hopefully I helped more than confuse. If you haven't already checked there are some great threads over on AudioKarma about these amps. Also you can join the Yahoo-Magnavox users group and tap into a wealth of information.
Unfortunately I just sold mine and shipped it out 2 days ago. So any questions and I am going by memory. But I do have pics of the underside I can send and I can look at the unmodified on in my garage to jog my memory.
-Dogwan
- Magnavox 9302 wont start up.
Recent Discussions
- › Speaker suggestions 23 seconds ago
- › Rate The Last Movie You Watched 29 seconds ago
- › Headphones with a big soundstage (spacious surround sound) at a... 1 minute ago
- › Denon Officially Announces Its New Headphones! 1 minute ago
- › Bicycle-Fi! 1 minute ago
- › Favorite Film Scores 2 minutes ago
- › The diary entries of a little girl nearing 30! 2 minutes ago
- › Keyboard-Fi 2 minutes ago
- › [REVIEW] Brainwavz M4 3 minutes ago
- › AKG K550 modifications (finishing the work AKG should have done... 3 minutes ago
Recent Reviews
- › Aiaiai TMA-1 by DE Nefta
- › Ultrasone HFI-780 S-Logic Surround Sound Professional Headphones by 12Rounds
- › Shure SRH1840 Professional Open Back Headphones (Black) by kstuart
- › TEAC PD-H600 Reference 600 Series CD Player by gonkulator
- › AKG K403 by eskimoo
- › Sennheiser HD-598 by TK277
- › Ultrasone Signature Pro Headphones by baglunch
- › JVC HA-S600 by pootispow
- › Audez'e LCD-2 Planar Magnetic Headphones by Squuiid
- › Superlux HD-668 B by BlackTea
New Articles
- › iBasso DX100 FAQ by DoctorHeadz
- › DIY Cable Info and Resources by Pingupenguins
- › Asr Head-Fi Threads Compendium by Asr
- › Headphone Buying Guide by keanex
- › Fostex T50RP modification summary LINKS - wiki by jgray91
- › Comparisons of the LCD-3 and the LCD-2 Rev. 2 by MacedonianHero
- › Posting Guidelines by Currawong
- › Comparisons of LCD-2 Rev. 1 and Rev. 2 by MacedonianHero
- › Membership Levels, Badges and Custom Titles by Currawong
- › Sennheiser Hd4 8 Modding For Newbies by koolkat
About Head-Fi.org | Join the Community | Advertise
© 2012 Head-Fi.org is powered by Huddler Tech | FAQ | Support | Privacy/TOS | Site Map






