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Picking tools, tips, etc. for DIY?

post #1 of 8
12/28/10 at 6:20am
Thread Starter 

Hey everyone,

 

I've finally decided to start really getting into DIY and would like some advice.  I already have a soldering station, but I was wondering if you could recommend the most common size and type tips you use with yours.  Mine's compatible with Hakko 936 tips if that helps (it's an Aoyue).  What solder do you usually recommend?  Suggestions for tweezers and "helping hands" (preferably ones with a stable base)?

 

Also, I'm a bit concerned with chassis work.  I have a Dremmel, but would also like suggestions for what bits and cutters to purchase for it too.

 

What temperature do you usually recommend having the soldering station at when working on things like SMD too?  My first project will either be an Alien or Bantam dac.

 

Thanks!

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post #2 of 8
12/29/10 at 3:17am

I also use a soldering station compatible with Hakko 936 tips, I use the most standard looking one that they have at my local fry's - I think - 900M-T-0.8D? I have a few other tips, but they haven't proved to be very useful, I use the standard one almost exclusively. 

 

Cardas quad solder is what I use as it works well and tends to be the cheapest of the non-generic solders.  It has a low melting point so you won't need as much heat working with stuff like SMDs as well.

 

Concerning chassis work, it depends what kind of material you'll be working with. If you're working with aluminum or plexi (my material of choice), I think you'll find that the dremel is only good for drilling small holes (if even that) and making the initial rough cuts for other tools to finish the job. It's definitely not something that's going to give you any clean edges. That said, the only useful bits I've found for these materials is the spiral cutter and polisher. You'll probably need the plunge base to do anything with the cutter though.

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post #3 of 8
12/29/10 at 4:30am
Thread Starter 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by reod View Post

I also use a soldering station compatible with Hakko 936 tips, I use the most standard looking one that they have at my local fry's - I think - 900M-T-0.8D? I have a few other tips, but they haven't proved to be very useful, I use the standard one almost exclusively. 

 

Cardas quad solder is what I use as it works well and tends to be the cheapest of the non-generic solders.  It has a low melting point so you won't need as much heat working with stuff like SMDs as well.

 

Concerning chassis work, it depends what kind of material you'll be working with. If you're working with aluminum or plexi (my material of choice), I think you'll find that the dremel is only good for drilling small holes (if even that) and making the initial rough cuts for other tools to finish the job. It's definitely not something that's going to give you any clean edges. That said, the only useful bits I've found for these materials is the spiral cutter and polisher. You'll probably need the plunge base to do anything with the cutter though.



Alright, I know where to get the .8D tips from, and the plunge base.  Well actually, when you say plunge base do you mean the plunge router base or the drill press type base?  And can the router base be used like a temp drill press bass too or is it best to have those separate?  Or, should I consider another tool entirely for working with endplates (since I do plan on plexi and aluminum work)?

 

I'm working in an apartment though which limits my ability, so if anyone else feels like chiming in the advice is appreciated! :)


Edited by Shike - 12/29/10 at 4:32am
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post #4 of 8
12/29/10 at 10:35am

For casework, I have become a big fan of GreenLee punches. They are expensive, but, easy to use and give great results. The 15/16 inch punch works perfect for back mounting Neutrik jacks. There are cheaper brands available that do essentially the same thing. Might not be as easy to use or as precise, but, would certainly work. Punches will work fine for aluminum and thin gauge steel. You would have to check to see what the punch is rated for in terms of material and maximum thickness it can handle. 

 

I use my dremel for square cuts such as press fit power switches and IEC outlets. The fiberglass cut-off wheels work fine on aluminum. I use them to rough cut the opening and then finish with a flat file.

 

Plexi is a whole other animal. Are you talking about plastic or acrylic?

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post #5 of 8
12/30/10 at 3:31am
Thread Starter 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdkJake View Post

For casework, I have become a big fan of GreenLee punches. They are expensive, but, easy to use and give great results. The 15/16 inch punch works perfect for back mounting Neutrik jacks. There are cheaper brands available that do essentially the same thing. Might not be as easy to use or as precise, but, would certainly work. Punches will work fine for aluminum and thin gauge steel. You would have to check to see what the punch is rated for in terms of material and maximum thickness it can handle. 

 

I use my dremel for square cuts such as press fit power switches and IEC outlets. The fiberglass cut-off wheels work fine on aluminum. I use them to rough cut the opening and then finish with a flat file.

 

Plexi is a whole other animal. Are you talking about plastic or acrylic?


Could you link to some of the cheaper alternatives to the 15/16 Green Lee?  What tool do you use with the punches themselves?

 

Next, I'm actually thinking about doing a Alien or Bantam DAC.  What should I use to cut the USB ports?  Would the cut-off wheels be too large to do such work?

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post #6 of 8
12/30/10 at 7:34am
You will have to search around a bit. Harbor Freight has a cheap set (http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html), not sure how well they actually work as compared to a Greenlee. If I remember right, TomB talks about them on his Millet Maxxed web page under casework.

The punches themselves can be used with wrenches all the way to hydraulics. I just used a couple of pairs of vice grips. Worked fine.

When I cut a USB hole for my grubDAC in my MOSFET-MAX, I just used a drill and a small round file to make and shape the hole. It is so small, I am not sure if a punch would be worthwhile.
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post #7 of 8
12/30/10 at 8:30am

My noob experience, just recently built a pimeta v2.  Previous projects were some random kits but nothing audio related.

 

I picked up the cheapest drill press I could find at Harbor Freight and have been really happy with it for light duty stuff.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed-drill-press-38119.html

 

There is a slightly more expensive one that has a keyless chuck but I don't think it's worth the expense.  Throw the money saved towards a nice set of step drill bits and a cheap clamp to hold your work.

 

I cased my pimeta v2 in a aluminum Hammond enclosure using the above + file set + greenlee 15/16 punch for the neutrik.  Designed the front and back plates in front panel express, printed 1:1 and taped onto work piece and used as a guide.

 

As far as soldering goes, I've got a nice weller station (I'm totally ok with overkill on tools :)) but I think that what helps most is having thin gauge solder vs having a really thin tip for SMD work.  Tangent's SMD tutorial was very helpful.  I used SMT devices for most of the caps on the pimeta and also soldered the 8-pin SMT packages for the buffers.

 

I have these tweezers:

http://www.amazon.com/Erem-EROPOOSA-Tweezers-Stainless-Anti-magnetic/dp/B000FRHEDY

If you have a Fry's nearby they have a decent selection of hand tools which might save you shipping.

 

Helping Hands: I borrowed a friends panavise Jr, I like it waaay better than the cheap set of helping hands I had already.

 

-chris

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post #8 of 8
12/30/10 at 8:53pm

Cool, hadn't heard of punches before. I'll probably consider a set for my next project which will require a metal enclosure- it would probably shatter acrylic (plexiglas).

 

About the dremel base, I was referring to the router base. I eventually picked up a router to get cleaner edges on the acrylic and will probably get a drill press for more precise metal drilling. The dremel is still nice for cutting smaller pieces.

 

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