Head-Fi.org › Forums › Summit-Fi (High-End Audio) › High-end Audio Forum › Amps that can drive the HiFiMan HE-6 planar headphones
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Amps that can drive the HiFiMan HE-6 planar headphones - Page 176

post #2626 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by barza View Post
 

First post after lurking here for quite a while - this place can be really intimidating, so please go easy on me if any of what follows belies laughable ignorance. But I need some good advice.

 

I am planning to add a pair of a HE6s to my collection of headphones for use in my man cave when the kids are asleep (oh, the joys of fatherhood!). And I have been ploughing through this thread and others, agonising about what to do about driving these headphones (I have an IFI ICan for less demanding cans, and that works for me). I have been thinking about all the relatively low budget options for driving the HE6 (Topping TP60, Alesis RA-150, for example) as interim solutions before committing any more serious money to amplification for the HE6. I also have a couple of other amps lying around (Marantz PM66SE K I Sig, Arcam A85, Pioneer VS-AX5i) I could press into service for a while. But then I had a lightbulb moment.

 

I have a Musical Fidelity A1008 Integrated Amp in the room in question. I love it, and its as about as audiophile as I am prepared to get for now. My main speakers are wired to that amp. But what if I could also connect the HIFIMAN HE adaptor to that amp, and then use it to drive my HE-6s. With the amp able to push 250w RMS into 8 ohms, I am assuming the adaptor would ensure I don't blow the HE6s up provided I am careful with the amp volume control.

 

I don't want to have to get into pulling the speaker bananas out and putting in the set connected to the Hifiman adaptor. And the A1008 only has one set of speaker outputs. So I need some kind of switch between the two outputs, bearing in mind that I would never have cause to be using the speakers and the HE adaptor at the same time. A bit of research throws up this...

 

http://www.qed.co.uk/switching_units/switching_and_control_units/ss21_2_way_audiophile_parallel_speaker_switch.html

 

...which at first glance looks good to me, even though it allows simultaneous use of two sets of "speakers" which I certainly do not need. But this raises several questions:

 

1. Would the switch in conjunction with the HE adaptor create risks of damaging my amp if you accidentally selected both outputs to be operative at once?

2. Would the switch degrade the audio performance of the outputs?

3. If the answer to either of the above is yes, is there another solution beyond physically swapping banana plugs at the back of the A1008?

 

And finally

 

4. Anyone have any views on how good the A1008----->HE adaptor----->HE6 combo would sound?

 

Thanks for any responses, and for the endurance required to reading this long post!!


Or you can use the adaptator from ERGO AMT

post #2627 of 3098
Ohhgourami - thanks again! I'll go and do my reading. It would be a good exercise for me to try and get my understanding to the point where I can figure out what I need for myself. That bar may a bit high for me to reach!

Kazcou - Thanks for the heads up on the ERGO AMT box. On a quick first search, I couldn't find much info on what is inside the box. It is available here in the UK for about £200 new.

I found another option on the switching which could work, the Beresford 7220. It also gives the option of adding another amplification source down the line, which could be helpful. Not a very pretty looking device, though! Would cost about £100 all in here in the UK.

Can anyone offer an option on whether the Musical Fidelity A1008 to HE6 combo looks a good option on paper? Views on the quality of MF kit appear to vary a lot. Judging by remarks throughout this thread, a major part of the issue is not the need for power per se but the ability to supply that power dynamically - given that this amp has a hefty separate power supply and draws a lot on MF's design for their older TOTL amps, it looks to me like a good candidate if not the summit-fi being discussed here. Would really appreciate any views, as in some respects going down a Topping TP60 route or similar would actually be easier.
post #2628 of 3098

Is a box with 2 resistors / 4 capacitors / 1 switch / a domino connector kit / 2 enameled copper wire coil / 4 pin xlr panel mount

I think you can make one for less than 30€

post #2629 of 3098
Kazcou - Given that I am pretty much a complete electronics noob, the possibility of building a box like that is more than a little daunting!

Ohhgourami - From the piece you linked to, I get the message that not all resistors are creating equal even if their specifications may appear similar on paper. And hence the specific issue with the HE6 adaptor is not its architecture per se, but the specific resistors they have used which May color the sound. Thats very useful to know. I now need to take a step back and understand the why and how of what resistors to use in these specific circumstances, from a starting point of knowing virtually nothing.
post #2630 of 3098

4 x Capacitors :

2 x 23V 82uf

2 x 35V 68uf

 

4 x Resistors :

2 x 1,2ohm 5W

2 x 6.8ohm 5W

 

For the enameled copper wire coil I can't help

 

I think a photo will speak more :

post #2631 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazcou View Post
 

4 x Capacitors :

the rest... (Click to show)

2 x 23V 82uf

2 x 35V 68uf

 

4 x Resistors :

2 x 1,2ohm 5W

2 x 6.8ohm 5W

 

For the enameled copper wire coil I can't help

 

I think a photo will speak more :

 

OK, I'm missing something here... What are we building?

post #2632 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post
 

OK, I'm missing something here... What are we building?


A adaptator for swithing between headphone and speakers.

 

I am just saying you can make one for 30€ instead of 200£ asked by Ergo.

I remember they ask me 500€ for one driver...

post #2633 of 3098
Kazcou - I wish I had the expertise to do that and be confident of the outcome. In the meantime, I am just trying to understand exactly what resistors I would need to use on the headphone side of a switch fed by my A1008 amp (250w into 8ohms). Ideally, the resistors would result in my only using the volume up to 10 o,clock max, as that is about as much as I use with my speakers? Any guidance on that would be much appreciated.

Anybody with an opinion on Musical Fidelity A1008 driving HE6?
post #2634 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazcou View Post


A adaptator for swithing between headphone and speakers.

I am just saying you can make one for 30€ instead of 200£ asked by Ergo.
I remember they ask me 500€ for one driver...

Ok. What are the caps for? Got a circuit sketch?
post #2635 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post


Ok. What are the caps for? Got a circuit sketch?


I think is for stabilise power, but if you really want a reply you need to ask that question in DIY section.

post #2636 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazcou View Post
 


I think is for stabilise power, but if you really want a reply you need to ask that question in DIY section.

Got a link to a thread where you saw the configuration?

post #2637 of 3098

So I got my pair of HE-6s yesterday.

 

I have set this up so my Music Fidelity A1008 amp is connected to a Beresford TC-7220 Mk2 switch, and this in turn is connected to (a) my B and W speakers, and (b) a stock Hifiman HE adaptor and then the HE6s. I am happy to report that the Beresford switch works very well - it is not the prettiest looking thing but it feels very solid, I do not detect any change in audio quality using my speakers, and the switching between speakers and headphone works fine.

 

I have a speaker tap to XLR cable on the way, and another head-fi member has kindly offered to upgrade the resistors in a HE adaptor for me. Once these are in hand I will return the "stock" HE adaptor to the retialer (something they agreed to). But after only a couple of hours use, I am very happy with the set up. I demoed the HE6 driven by a Hifiman EF6 amp for an hour or so yesterday before taking them home. My initial impression is that with the stock HE adaptor they are at least as good being driven off the A1008. No noise floor I can hear at all, and I am getting to use a bit less than half of the volume range on the amp before they are way too loud.

 

As for the HE6s I have only one word to describe them at this point - resolution. 

post #2638 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by barza View Post
 

So I got my pair of HE-6s yesterday.

 

I have set this up so my Music Fidelity A1008 amp is connected to a Beresford TC-7220 Mk2 switch, and this in turn is connected to (a) my B and W speakers, and (b) a stock Hifiman HE adaptor and then the HE6s. I am happy to report that the Beresford switch works very well - it is not the prettiest looking thing but it feels very solid, I do not detect any change in audio quality using my speakers, and the switching between speakers and headphone works fine.

 

I have a speaker tap to XLR cable on the way, and another head-fi member has kindly offered to upgrade the resistors in a HE adaptor for me. Once these are in hand I will return the "stock" HE adaptor to the retialer (something they agreed to). But after only a couple of hours use, I am very happy with the set up. I demoed the HE6 driven by a Hifiman EF6 amp for an hour or so yesterday before taking them home. My initial impression is that with the stock HE adaptor they are at least as good being driven off the A1008. No noise floor I can hear at all, and I am getting to use a bit less than half of the volume range on the amp before they are way too loud.

 

As for the HE6s I have only one word to describe them at this point - resolution. 


Welcome aboard!

 

Glad you are happy with the HE-6 and hear what we are hearing too. Indeed so much resolution and feel.

post #2639 of 3098
For those interested in trying, the grill mod is the easiest and most curious of the pads, grill and felt mods. The sound opens up even more but you don't lose impact. The file tray they show for a sample in the thread is like less than $10 at an office supply shop.
I cut them with tin shears very easily. I've also used regular scissors to cut the mesh. I was able to get 8 grills cut from the bottom of the tray. The ring to remove and replace the grill has 4 tabs that hold the grill in place. Make sure to see the instructions on location of the tabs. http://www.head-fi.org/t/619447/hifiman-regrilling-mod

The mod is just as quickly reversed if you want to compare or go back to the original. It takes about a minute to do.
post #2640 of 3098
Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Camper View Post

For those interested in trying, the grill mod is the easiest and most curious of the pads, grill and felt mods. The sound opens up even more but you don't lose impact. The file tray they show for a sample in the thread is like less than $10 at an office supply shop.
I cut them with tin shears very easily. I've also used regular scissors to cut the mesh. I was able to get 8 grills cut from the bottom of the tray. The ring to remove and replace the grill has 4 tabs that hold the grill in place. Make sure to see the instructions on location of the tabs. http://www.head-fi.org/t/619447/hifiman-regrilling-mod

The mod is just as quickly reversed if you want to compare or go back to the original. It takes about a minute to do.

 

 

Did you use any fabric with new grills or no, I want to try. But afraid without fabric, dust will collect inside drivers over a period of time.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: High-end Audio Forum
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Summit-Fi (High-End Audio) › High-end Audio Forum › Amps that can drive the HiFiMan HE-6 planar headphones