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Show us your Head-Fi station at it's current state. No old pictures please... - Page 970post #14536 of 197168/7/13 at 6:50pm
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #14537 of 197168/7/13 at 7:04pmpost #14538 of 197168/7/13 at 7:13pm
Vintage amps use same amp circuit that would powers the speakers. There is a resistor wired in line to reduce power output, because obviously headphones don't need 50+ watts per side. Some people say high output impedance is bad, but I let my ears be the judge, and what I am hearing is pretty stellar. Especially considering the ridiculously low price I paid for this thing.Quote:
Edited by jasonb - 8/7/13 at 7:15pmpost #14539 of 197168/7/13 at 7:15pmQuote:
really nice setup - i love vintage gear!post #14540 of 197168/7/13 at 7:20pmpost #14541 of 197168/7/13 at 7:47pmQuote:Originally Posted by jasonb
Vintage amps use same amp circuit that would powers the speakers. There is a resistor wired in line to reduce power output, because obviously headphones don't need 50+ watts per side. Some people say high output impedance is bad, but I let my ears be the judge, and what I am hearing is pretty stellar. Especially considering the ridiculously low price I paid for this thing.
What resistor is typical? 150 ohm?
Has anyone lowered the resistor to get even MORE output? Not that it needs it..............none of my 5 vintage really do but ya know, makes me wonder.post #14542 of 197168/7/13 at 7:50pm
No idea what impedance the resistor is. Lowering the resistor would gain more output power, but I already can't listen to either of my two headphones at higher than the 9 o'clock spot on the volume knob, and that is with the E17 feeding it as a DAC only.
All I know is that this very budget setup sounds ridiculous.
-$40 for the Pioneer SX-750
-$140 for the Fiio E17
-$240 for the Q701
-and I've got about $180 or so into the T50rp, including the headphones themselves plus the pads, cable, and modding materialsQuote:
Edited by jasonb - 8/7/13 at 7:56pmpost #14543 of 197168/7/13 at 9:34pmpost #14544 of 197168/7/13 at 11:41pm
Very nice! I almost finished my Crack build today, gotta go in tomorrow and figure out why it blew a fuse on powerup Funny, because I definitely took my time and worked carefully (8-hours) so that I hopefully wouldn't have to do any troubleshooting... Measurements all checked out too.post #14545 of 197168/7/13 at 11:46pmpost #14546 of 197168/8/13 at 12:08am
That's the thing that's puzzling me. All of the resistance measurements checked out fine, wouldn't that be affected in the event of a short or bad connection?
I did some Google-fu and discovered that many builders use slow-blow fuses. Mine shipped with a fast-blow 1A, 250v fuse. Might try a slow-blow and see if that was the problem. Radioshack closed a few hours ago, so it'll have to wait until tomorrow.post #14547 of 197168/8/13 at 12:08ampost #14548 of 197168/8/13 at 12:20amQuote:Originally Posted by calipilot227
All of the resistance measurements checked out fine, wouldn't that be affected in the event of a short or bad connection?
I did some Google-fu and discovered that many builders use slow-blow fuses. Mine shipped with a fast-blow 1A, 250v fuse. Might try a slow-blow and see if that was the problem. Radioshack closed a few hours ago, so it'll have to wait until tomorrow.
No. If the resistors itself is damaged then it will show bad or out of spec drifted measurement ratings, double check through your work according to the manual supplied, sometimes your eyes become strained if you work on something to long and you zone out so you might've made a small mistake somewhere. Mine shipped with a fast blow 1A and has never blown. But hey could be a fuse problem and I'm smoking unicorns.post #14549 of 197168/8/13 at 12:33am
- Show us your Head-Fi station at it's current state. No old pictures please...
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