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Want to do Apheared 47 on a Radio Shack #276-150 board. Also looking for help with power supply.

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

Looking at Ben Feist's Tutorial for the A47 makes sense to me. However, there's something strange about it. He states he's using a Radio Shack #276-150 protoboard, but his board looks different than mine. The layout is completely different. Does anyone know how to adapt his layout to the Radio Shack #276-150 that I'm using? My issue at this point is I'm still very new to reading a schematic and being able to implement it to a a protoboard successfully is going to be a tough challenge.

post #2 of 7

If you do not plan on buffering the ground channel with a BUF 634, (maybe using a different ground channel scheme/topology) then a beautiful exucution of the '47' can be found on Sijosae's site. The writing is Korean, but scroll down to see some of the most beautifully executed DIY boardwork ever. (Through-hole board and etchings). His compact and downright pretty layouts are marvelous. Once you are familiar with different amps and their topologies, go take a scroll through Sijosae's work, he's probably got a version of it in his collection that will simplify the design and inspire you to build it. His own hybrid tube designs are fun to build and sound good too. His miniaturization work is also friggin' ridiculous. Anyway, I ramble. I've lurked a long time without giving the due credit to masters like sijosae.

 

http://www.headphoneamp.co.kr/bbs/zboard.php?id=diy_sijosae&page=16&sn1=&divpage=1&sn=off&ss=on&sc=on&select_arrange=headnum&desc=asc&no=106

post #3 of 7

http://www.head-fi.org/search.php?search=A47+layout

 

 

Link #5 looks about right to me.

post #4 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcantHearU View Post

If you do not plan on buffering the ground channel with a BUF 634, (maybe using a different ground channel scheme/topology) then a beautiful exucution of the '47' can be found on Sijosae's site. The writing is Korean, but scroll down to see some of the most beautifully executed DIY boardwork ever. (Through-hole board and etchings). His compact and downright pretty layouts are marvelous. Once you are familiar with different amps and their topologies, go take a scroll through Sijosae's work, he's probably got a version of it in his collection that will simplify the design and inspire you to build it. His own hybrid tube designs are fun to build and sound good too. His miniaturization work is also friggin' ridiculous. Anyway, I ramble. I've lurked a long time without giving the due credit to masters like sijosae.

 

http://www.headphoneamp.co.kr/bbs/zboard.php?id=diy_sijosae&page=16&sn1=&divpage=1&sn=off&ss=on&sc=on&select_arrange=headnum&desc=asc&no=106

Thanks a lot for that link! I tried looking at his pages but got intimidated because... well... it's in KOREAN tongue.gif I'm going to see if I can use that layout with a BUF634 somehow.
 

post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 

As always, thanks MisterX. I was going to use 2 OPA2132s and see how they work for me. I'm also planning on using DIP-8 sockets so I can swap 'em for the OPA2227. Tangent recommends the Mouser part #163-4024 which is rated at 13.5V for the DC power jack in a standard CMOY. Ben Feist recommends a supply voltage of 15-20v for an A47. Keeping the opamps in mind, would Tangents recommendation work with a wallwart of 15-20v? Also, I'm planning on mounting this to an Altoids tin. I'm going to need something with a thread and bolt. Finally, my power caps are rated at 25v. I think I should be fine with these with a power supply that maxes out at 15-20v. I'm just making sure I don't blow anything up. ;) If I have this all wrong, what would you guys recommend?


Edited by Mullet - 12/12/10 at 11:31pm
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 

bump.

 

Still not sure what to get from Mouser, which is my preferred vendor. I will use Digi-Key if need be though because I'm really taking a fancy to that knob that JDS labs uses on the BBcmoy. Mouser doesn't carry that knob. d'oh!

post #7 of 7

The DIP sockets will be fine. 25V capacitors will be fine. If mouser doesn't have the part you want you'll have to order from somewhere else too. It's annoying, but sometimes you have to get parts from several places.

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