Cmoy problems, oh boy.

You'll need to post some pics, and someone will be along to help

cheers

FRED

Thats what she said. lol Jk. Cheers

Quote:

Originally Posted by mralexosborn 

I hate this. I am going blind it is too small. I could probably at least have a chance with something I COULD F***ING SEE!. 

Okay, here are some pictures:

 

 

I'm sorry , i figured a good laugh would help in your dilemma.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mralexosborn 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guidostrunk 

Thats what she said. lol Jk. Cheers

Quote:

Originally Posted by mralexosborn 

I hate this. I am going blind it is too small. I could probably at least have a chance with something I COULD F***ING SEE!. 

Okay, here are some pictures:

 

 

 

Thanks, that helped a lot. 

 

Could you guys please help? I hate this; I will never build a small project amp again. My eyes are strained so terribly. 
 

That looks pretty bad... I think I see some solder bridges. I would put some flux on all the joints, get a clean tip on your iron to reflow the joints.

Hello,

I remember one of my electronics lecturers saying (quite rightly) that your first build of any circuit is guaranteed not to work. Don't worry, by the time you are done with this your greatest worry will be how to keep up with a crippling addiction to op. amp's, input capacitors and power supplies. Stick at it!

Just to mirror what others have said, certainly go over your joints again, they look like they didn't have enough flux/the tip was a bit dirty/the tip was a bit cold. Bridges are often there even if you think they aren't - I have found that the flux in your solder can cause some strange issues!

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/64538/is-flux-conductive - this will give you some interesting reading regarding the whole flux issue.

If I were you, I'd re-heat the solder on the joints and while molten, knock the board on it's edge to remove the excess solder, this will let you see things more clearly and potentially resolve a bridge issue.

Then I'd get my iron and using the side of the tip, run it between the tracks. This will further encourage any loose solder to re-collect at one of the pads and break the bridge. It should also tidy it up after you have removed the solder.

After that I'd clean the board with a flux remover (if you have some). If you don't have flux remover I'd get the corner of a fine screwdriver blade and run it between the tracks and pads of the board. This will physically remove anything that shouldn't be there - it's pretty definite. Watch out and don't stab yourself in the palm of your hand holding the board! :)

Also, I see you have used 2 wires to go point-to-point - make sure that the only part of these wires touching the board are the ends that are soldered to the pads. Watch out on the pad next to the soldered pad - where the insulating sheath has shrunk due to soldering, the metal core can touch the adjacent pad. Lift it gently with a fine flat blade screwdriver, careful not to lift the metal pad from the fiber board.

There are many reasons why you'd only be getting amplification on one channel. This has happened to me maybe 30 times and I'm sure that almost all if not all of these times were due to a solder bridge.

I don't understand your alligator clip issue but a picture of your clip setup would be good so we could have a go at answering your issue of an intermittent signal.

If you read the link I posted you should find the answers to your questions about alcohol.

Good luck.

Your soldering iron is probably far too hot.

Thats why you have trouble tinning it and it makes

those horrible solder joints.

Do yourself a big favour and get a proper temperature

controlled iron.

I clean my flux off with 99% Isopropyl alcohol from the drug store.

An old tooth brush comes in handy for that too.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mralexosborn 

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrTom 

Hello,

 

I remember one of my electronics lecturers saying (quite rightly) that your first build of any circuit is guaranteed not to work. Don't worry, by the time you are done with this your greatest worry will be how to keep up with a crippling addiction to op. amp's, input capacitors and power supplies. Stick at it!

 

Just to mirror what others have said, certainly go over your joints again, they look like they didn't have enough flux/the tip was a bit dirty/the tip was a bit cold. Bridges are often there even if you think they aren't - I have found that the flux in your solder can cause some strange issues!

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/64538/is-flux-conductive - this will give you some interesting reading regarding the whole flux issue.

 

If I were you, I'd re-heat the solder on the joints and while molten, knock the board on it's edge to remove the excess solder, this will let you see things more clearly and potentially resolve a bridge issue.

 

Then I'd get my iron and using the side of the tip, run it between the tracks. This will further encourage any loose solder to re-collect at one of the pads and break the bridge. It should also tidy it up after you have removed the solder.

 

After that I'd clean the board with a flux remover (if you have some). If you don't have flux remover I'd get the corner of a fine screwdriver blade and run it between the tracks and pads of the board. This will physically remove anything that shouldn't be there - it's pretty definite. Watch out and don't stab yourself in the palm of your hand holding the board! :)

 

Also, I see you have used 2 wires to go point-to-point - make sure that the only part of these wires touching the board are the ends that are soldered to the pads. Watch out on the pad next to the soldered pad - where the insulating sheath has shrunk due to soldering, the metal core can touch the adjacent pad. Lift it gently with a fine flat blade screwdriver, careful not to lift the metal pad from the fiber board.

 

 

 

There are many reasons why you'd only be getting amplification on one channel. This has happened to me maybe 30 times and I'm sure that almost all if not all of these times were due to a solder bridge.

 

I don't understand your alligator clip issue but a picture of your clip setup would be good so we could have a go at answering your issue of an intermittent signal.

The point to point wires don't touch the board, I was wise enough not to do that.

I see one or two solder joints where the solder surrounds the lead but does not cover it so that is most likely the issue. I couldn't see that last night.

Once I get sound in both channels clear enough that I can hear, I will go ahead and build, build, build. I did this as a small project i.e. I will not be using it really.  About $100 worth of equipment later...I am thinking of getting into speakers (and DIY amps).

What can I use as flux cleaner? Will high purity alcohol do the trick? If so how do I apply it?

 

This $12 soldering iron from Parts Express in a PITA. I turn it on and smoke come from inside (around the handle) for about 15 minutes. Mmmm burning plastic. 

It is also a PITA to keep tinned. The top part of the HANDLE is too hot. You have to grasp it closer to the base. I was using the $13 soldering gun before. I would say they are equal in functionality. 

 

I have gotten the hang of soldering though...I think. 

Just a couple points. I agree with what has been said already, and learning to solder is a pretty quick process. A couple more projects and you will be much more comfortable. Watching some videos on youtube can probably help you with your technique. If you are going to be doing a lot of projects you will probably want to invest in a nice iron with temperature control. Two I have used that I like are the Weller wes51 and the Hakko 936. If things are too small you can buy a magnifying glass for soldering. I have seen stands with attached magnifiers, sort of visor-goggle magnifiers that go around your head, and lamps with attached magnifiers. Also, your multimeter is probably fine. If it has auto-ranging ability then it will not read anything for a few seconds while it determines the proper range before it displays the actual value. Good luck getting everything to work

This can help too

http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/