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Audio-GD NFB-12 - Page 136

post #2026 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimLaroux View Post

I've been using the amplifier in my NFB-12 and never seen the need to get a dedicated amplifier. The NFB-12's amplifier is dead silent and has enough power to blow your headphones up. Plus it's got a flat frequency response that extends bellow and over human hearing. I just don't see why I should spend more money on something else.

 

I can already admit that the music I listen to is the bottleneck of my setup. I just HATE compressed music, but sadly it's the norm in the genres I listen to. Champagne to the day the Loudness War ends.

 

No amount of money spent on hardware will make over-compressed albums sound better. So unless you strictly listen to "audiophile level" recordings, there's a point where good enough is good enough. The NFB-12 fills that role quite well.

There are some improvements with the O2 but I get what you mean. I was able to get the O2 at a very good price so I got it to do tests and comparisons on. I'll be selling it in the comming weeks. It's a desktop only(no batteries) use O2 customized for high performance purposes(Burr Brown op amp with NJM4556) and uses RCA inputs and quarter inch output.

post #2027 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimLaroux View Post

Edit: Just thought about something. For those of you who use the NFB-12 as a DAC only, how do you connect both your amplifier and your speakers to it? I've been thinking about adding a second set of RCA to my NFB-12 for this, but I'm still unsure if I should wire them in parallel. Seeing how the line out actually goes trough the amplifier, it shouldn't be a problem for it to drive multiple lines.
I use an RCA splitter for that, and it works perfectly. Well, that's what I used to do. At the moment I don't have a dedicated headphone amplifier anymore.
post #2028 of 2247

I just discovered something else about the NFB-12 that makes me facepalms.

 

The cross talk is so bad, I get signal on the RCA even when the Output switch is set to "HP". Of course it's a very faint signal, but it's still there. About the same level as the cross talk between channels.

 

How can a dual DAC chip design have so much cross talk? Is this something common with DACs or is it worse on the NFB-12?

 

I was concerned that having two amplifiers permanently connected (as opposed to using a switch box) would introduce cross talk. With the cross talk already taking place inside the NB-12, I guess it doesn't matter. So I ordered two of these.

post #2029 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowei006 View Post

But it gets too hot

I have been listening to my NFB-12 (going on 7 hours.....as I work at home) and it is barely warm. I just hit it with a Fluke temp gauge......97.1 F was the hottest part looking down on the left side rear. The very front top is 94.3 F. That to me is not hot. Also the unit sits on top of my computer and has a Sonos Bridge sitting on top.

 

P1010315.jpg


Edited by dwinnert - 6/28/12 at 3:49pm
post #2030 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwinnert View Post

I have been listening to my NFB-12 (going on 7 hours.....as I work at home) and it is barely warm. I just hit it with a Fluke temp gauge......97.1 F was the hottest part looking down on the left side rear. The very front top is 94.3 F. That to me is not hot. Also the unit sits on top of my computer and has a Sonos Bridge sitting on top.

That's about right for the temp. I know fo such a component it isn't hot. But ...... I have a wooden glossed table that this is sitting on. It has standoffs as I have the 12.1 but...still, it is very inconvenient. 

post #2031 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwinnert View Post

I have been listening to my NFB-12 (going on 7 hours.....as I work at home) and it is barely warm. I just hit it with a Fluke temp gauge......97.1 F was the hottest part looking down on the left side rear. The very front top is 94.3 F. That to me is not hot. Also the unit sits on top of my computer and has a Sonos Bridge sitting on top.

 

Indeed, this is where the transformer and the power supply is. I think the transformer is the thing that gets the warmest. And still it's not that hot. It's within operational temperature.

post #2032 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimLaroux View Post

 

Indeed, this is where the transformer and the power supply is. I think the transformer is the thing that gets the warmest. And still it's not that hot. It's within operational temperature.


Those that say theirs is getting too hot, I would like to see temps.

post #2033 of 2247

I was bored today. And bored geeks tend to find complicated solutions to problems that don't really exists.

 

So I drilled holes on the top cover of my NFB-12. In a golden spiral pattern.

 

d3ca23a5_Golden_Holes_4.jpeg

 

54542d86_Golden_Holes_5.jpeg

 

And of course, the center of the spiral is exactly where the unit wastes the most heat.

 

There's something about machined aluminum. These holes might have an arguable role as vents, but they do make the unit prettier. biggrin.gif

post #2034 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimLaroux View Post

I was bored today. And bored geeks tend to find complicated solutions to problems that don't really exists.

 

So I drilled holes on the top cover of my NFB-12. In a golden spiral pattern.

 

d3ca23a5_Golden_Holes_4.jpeg

 

54542d86_Golden_Holes_5.jpeg

 

And of course, the center of the spiral is exactly where the unit wastes the most heat.

 

There's something about machined aluminum. These holes might have an arguable role as vents, but they do make the unit prettier. biggrin.gif

CAn you send me the paper? As in scan it?............

post #2035 of 2247

hahaha! biggrin.gif

 

It was ruined with all the drilling. I can send you the measurements though. But then it'll ruin all the fun... wink.gif

 

Or you can go super lazy, and just print this. You just have to find out the right zoom level for your printer. Note that the cover of the NFB-12 is not a golden rectangle, so the ratio doesn't fit. I cheated and made the small side fit, while the long side overlaps. This is why the outside spiral end in the middle of the front panel. But honestly, you don't have to be super precise with the scaling. As long as the short side is less than 6 inches. 

post #2036 of 2247
Sad panda is sad frown.gif

Ill look into it then! Thanks
post #2037 of 2247
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowei006 View Post

Sad panda is sad frown.gif
Ill look into it then! Thanks

 

Awwh c'mon, it's not that hard.

 

It took me just a few minutes to Gimp the image, ready for printing. Complete with a scale. Just print it with the right zoom level so that the black rectangle is 1cm wide and 1 inch high. (crazy, because the top cover is 6 inch by 22cm, exactly) Then cut along the outside of the black line, and it should fit perfectly on the cover.

 

Golden_Spiral_Drawing.gif

 

All that's left is draw dot where the holes go. I started with the smallest drill bit in my kit, and used it for the center, done by approximation. I then switched to the next bit, and added 2mm spacing at each interval between the holes. Just measure with a flat ruler, it's well within the error if you use a hand drill anyways. I switched to the next size bit every 90 degrees.

post #2038 of 2247

That's cool !!!!

post #2039 of 2247

Happy panda is happy! biggrin.gif

 

Thanks my twin brother!

post #2040 of 2247

Make some additional holes on the bottom if you are concerned about heat in your NFB.

 

BTW the hottest parts should be PSU regulators and output transistors ("thingies" with heatsinks).

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