What does an Isolation Transformer Line Conditioner do? - Page 2

I think isolation transformers would attenuate a spike, but not eliminate it, so if big spikes are a concern then an additional surge protector such as MOV device may also be required.

For the base campers, I think my simple, light hearted, mountain analogy was perfectly adequate for the point I was making. 

I just want to clarify that I'm not trying to convert anyone. Firstly, base campers are not for turning, and secondly, noobs really should get to base camp first before they even think about the summit. I'm merely responding to Aegir's question about $1,000 power conditioners to show that there is a group of people who have a different viewpoint to the ones expressed so far.

One thing I think we all agree on though: With a second hand isolation transformer, you get an awful lot of metal and engineering for your $50, compared to the often baffling value for money at the high end. 

I have the view that basecamp is the summit, and it's vary easy to get there.

As for the surge suppression, iirc isolation transformers don't suppress unless they have movs and that's for high voltage (lightning) type situations.  For general voltage control I believe something like a Tripp Lite voltage conditioner is best.  It can provide 120v in ~90v brownout conditions and 120v in up to 140v over voltage conditions.  They're also pretty reasonably priced.

I like the base camp analogy, TheAttorney. I've tried multiple isolation transformers over the years and now everything begins with at least one xformer sourcing the downstream equipment. Financials were not an issue, so I haven't tried anything less than a 800VA. Climbing up the slopes, I ended up with a 1.8KVA and the 800VA in series for even better results. Later, I went for a high end balanced isolation xformer from BPT (2.4KVA), a partner with Equi=Tech, they use similar xformers sourced from Piltron. The balanced approach helped eliminate the need for adding additional xformers. However, I do use RGPC's in concert with the BPT.  

A benefit of really clean power is the ability to identify even the smallest incremental change in my music system, whatever the component change may be. By eliminating AC noise, every difference becomes an advertisement, sometimes positive, and often, not. 

An interesting effect of balanced power is the apparent reduction of jitter in digital equipment.

"In the digital domain, balanced power creates a more subtle change in noise characteristics but an equally dramatic improvement in performance. The major issue in digital signal processing is high frequency noise -- noise that approximates the frequency of various digital operations. For example, the sampling rate of digital recordings is 44.1kHz. That times the bit rate equals the rate of the data stream (approximately 700kHz  in 16 bit audio.) It has been found that digital jitter is reduced by approximately 1/3 to 1/2 in equipment that has been tested first without and then with balanced AC. High frequency interference (caused primarily by switching power supplies and other half-current-pulse semiconductor devices) is eliminated by balanced AC architecture in a manner analogous to removing the carrier frequency from an FM broadcast. In the case of balanced power, nulling low frequency harmonic current is in essence "knocking the legs out from under" the high frequency harmonics in the AC system. Everything collapses." (See: http://www.equitech.com/articles/origin.html and www.equiptech.com/articles for other interesting reading.)

When you can, place a balanced xformer or equivalent as the source for everything downstream. 

Simple question - is a balanced power supply the same thing as an isolation Tx. I was going to lay out for a new balanced power supply  but have the chance to buy a s/hand isolation Tx that is going cheap and from a well known commercial producer.

I always recommend starting at the lower end and moving up. That way you can assess for yourself the changes, if any, benefit your musical experience. A standard, cost effective isolation txformer is a good place to start, see what differences it makes for you. You can always use it elsewhere, like your home theater system, if and when you decide to move to balanced power.  
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black Stuart 

Simple question - is a balanced power supply the same thing as an isolation Tx. I was going to lay out for a new balanced power supply  but have the chance to buy a s/hand isolation Tx that is going cheap and from a well known commercial producer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black Stuart 

Simple question - is a balanced power supply the same thing as an isolation Tx.

An isolation transformer becomes a balanced power supply when the output side gains a central ground tap. So, for US, a 0v and 120v input becomes a -60v, 0v, +60v output, where the two 60v taps are out of phase with each other. The components downstream still see 120v, but the out of phase design gets rid of more noise. So the balanced version should be better, but Rdr. Seraphim makes a good point to start simple and only upgrade if you can hear the difference.

You can get solid state balanced supplies as well, but I haven't investigated those.
 

Thanks to the Attorney and Seraphim,

I was going to to bid for an STC hermetically sealed isolation Tx rated @ 1.8Kw but it is the mains noise elimination of the balanced power supply that I am looking for. I'm not a fan of filtering - the less the better. OK it will cost me another £120 but I shall have what I want. I'ts a 1.5Kw model so should handle all my requirements.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle Erik 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aegir 

Thanks so much for the reply!

As a matter of fact, yes, I do suffer from in-rush current AND power line noise.

This was an impulse buy from a closed business which was selling fixtures, etc.

I thought it may be of some use - turns out this is exactly what I need.

I'm glad it didn't cost an arm and a leg to solve those annoying buzzes and pops.

Cheers!

Yes, an isolation transformer will help with those things and you can plug everything you have into it.

 

Just so you know, the buzzes and pops might not be coming over the power line.  They can be internally produced by a computer - spinning fans, hard drives and much else kick off junk noise.  Computers are electrically noisy.

 

You can also pick up RFI/EMI noise from other products.  Anything with an AC motor kicks out noise, cellphones, fluorescent lights, dimmer switches, and much else contribute.

 

So even if you're getting pristine power, your cellphone can still interject buzzes and noise when your rig picks up its transmissions.

Can an isolation transformer eliminate buzz from a solid-state light dimmer that's within a couple feet of the affected audio equipment and on the same circuit?

My PS Audio GCHA is produces a low level buzz audible in my headphones. It's quiet enough that I only hear it when the music is off. It gets louder as I dim the lights (I've read UNcle Erik's previous explanations of why this occurs). It does not entirely disappear when the lights are off, but then the dimmer is equipped with an LED, so maybe it's never off?

The hum is also picked up by my subwoofer controller. 

I've read that you should get every last dimmer out of your house, they wreak havoc on your gear.

But then how would one dim the lights and chill the ham?