whats a good cheap audiophile grade power cord to try? Thanks.
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cheap audiophile-grade power cord?
- jilgiljongiljing
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Cheapest aftermarket one with good reviews is the Ironlung Jellyfish. Its cheap to try, built quite well, and looks quite nice as well (if you like the translucent purple connectors). You can find numerous reviews and impressions online for it as well.
After a short time of use, I always recommend Pangea power cables, http://www.pangeaaudio.com/products.html, which maybe will fit your need.
- Lil' Knight
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My favorite cheap power cable is the Volex 17604.
- socrates63
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I second the Ironlung Jellyfish. Looks like it's gotten cheaper? I thought I last paid more than $30 but it's listed for $29 now.
- Lil' Knight
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I second the Ironlung Jellyfish. Looks like it's gotten cheaper? I thought I last paid more than $30 but it's listed for $29 now.
Looks exactly the same, for much cheaper. http://cgi.ebay.com/6-SHIELDED-Hospital-Grade-Cord-14-AWG-IEC-POWER-CABLE-/170531295335?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b4751067
- nikongod
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Dont waste your money on cheap power cables. I'm sorry nobody has told you, but happy to say that the cable guys really do have their craft down pat and less expensive cables are built to sound very similar to the ubiquitous IEC cables typically included with computers.
Im sorry to rain on the parade, but again happy to inform that until you are spending serous money on cables you are basically flushing $20 bills down the toilet. Rather than wasting your money on the most nominal of differences (if they are even there, heh) why not invest in a quality cable?
On that note, the standard ratio for cable cost VS system cost is 1:2, with cables making up the 1. I tend to disagree with this ratio. It assumes a similar system cost for all individulas and does not account for people with less expensive systems where this ratio will not help people get the best sound from their system. I think charlatans use this deceptive tactic to hide the true cost of building a quality system from people but I will happily tell the truith. The fact of the matter is that the cables to make a quality system at any price cost a great deal. You should expect to invest at least a few hundred dollars on cables if you have any aspirations of owning a system worth listening to. This "new" recommendation accounts for people who dont want to spend much on their source, amp, or transducers but still want quality sound.
- Happy Camper
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x2 with what Nikongod says.
- kboe
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Ive used the Iron Lung and the Cardas Twinlink power cables and like them both. The Cardas is amazing, and the Iron Lung is great as well. Before you take my word or Nikongods, try them yourself. Half the fun in this stuff is trying new things. Be sure and report how you like/dislike any new power cords, or if you cant hear an improvement at all. MOAR IMPRESSIONS!!!!
- jilgiljongiljing
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I agree and disagree with nikongod, and am sort of with kboe on this subject. I agree that quality cables have a lot more work put into them compared to budget "audiophile" cables, but at the same time, for someone who is skeptical and not willing to put down big money right away, some of these budget cables do offer a way to try something new and for the price, you really don't lose much. If you don't hear a difference, too bad, but the cable isnt a complete waste. Its still a decently built one that will work just fine and look better than the stock cable.
- Uncle Erik
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Don't fall for the associated equipment trap. That's where you start telling yourself that if you spend X amount on one thing that something not very expensive is somehow "inadequate.". Where does that end? You will drive yourself crazy if you have to upgrade, upgrade and upgrade every associated object to be "good enough."
My cousin is a chef and has some pretty nice liquors around. I've had $200/bottle bourbons out of disposable plastic cups as well as cut crystal. It's damned good no matter the cup. My only hangup is that I don't like to put more plastic in the landfill, so I'd go for thrift store glasses. Which, by the way, is what's in my cabinets. Goodwill, Salvation Army and a set that belonged to my grandparents.
As for power cords "working," here's a thought exercise for you. Suppose you had a very pricey power cord that is reputed to "clean" the power. Now plug that cable in and deliberately put noise on the line. You could measure the noise going in and coming out.
How would you feel if your pricey power cord showed an equal amount of noise coming out the other end? Granted, there might be something completely misunderstood by science to the cable... but it would still have a quantifiable amount of noise passing through.
By the way, there are devices that actually remove noise from the line, and demonstrably so. I keep an isolation transformer on my amp.
- Rdr. Seraphim
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I agree with Uncle Erik, to a degree. The power side of my headphone music system is a significant contributor to the overall total value of my headphone music system, not just in $, but especially sound quality. I added isolation Xformer's to my big rig music system in the early 80's and haven't looked back. My current isolation transformer is a balanced design. Even so, I find that adding quality AC cords into the mix, one from the wall to the isolation transformer (20 amp in my case), one for the DAC and another for the amp, contribute to increased resolution, dynamics and lowered noise floor. The effect is cumulative. I use Harmonic Technology AC-10's.
- Mad Max
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I'd recommend the SoniKLEER II over the IronLung Jellyfish. The jellyfish is good, but the SoniKLEER is much better.
- Lil' Knight
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I'd recommend the SoniKLEER II over the IronLung Jellyfish. The jellyfish is good, but the SoniKLEER is much better.
What makes it much better?
Hey, good beverage/glass analogy. I was once told I had no palate after proclaiming that an espresso I had sipped from a 16oz paper cup was delicious (the circumstances aren't worth explaining). The espresso was, in fact, delicious, and the offending individual an imbecile and hipster jagoff. I imagine cables and glassware have much in common. Great components will put out good sounds in their own way however they are fed. The sounds/flavours may not be flawless, but like harmonic distortion or warmth in audio they add a colour that can be enjoyed for what it is.
Having said that, I own $50 Riedel Vinum wine glasses. They make a $35 wine taste like a $40 wine.
See how difficult it is to quantify/qualify these things?
Quote:

I just pick up old UL-certified power cords at the TRW swapmeet. They work fine.
Don't fall for the associated equipment trap. That's where you start telling yourself that if you spend X amount on one thing that something not very expensive is somehow "inadequate.". Where does that end? You will drive yourself crazy if you have to upgrade, upgrade and upgrade every associated object to be "good enough."
My cousin is a chef and has some pretty nice liquors around. I've had $200/bottle bourbons out of disposable plastic cups as well as cut crystal. It's damned good no matter the cup. My only hangup is that I don't like to put more plastic in the landfill, so I'd go for thrift store glasses. Which, by the way, is what's in my cabinets. Goodwill, Salvation Army and a set that belonged to my grandparents.
As for power cords "working," here's a thought exercise for you. Suppose you had a very pricey power cord that is reputed to "clean" the power. Now plug that cable in and deliberately put noise on the line. You could measure the noise going in and coming out.
How would you feel if your pricey power cord showed an equal amount of noise coming out the other end? Granted, there might be something completely misunderstood by science to the cable... but it would still have a quantifiable amount of noise passing through.
By the way, there are devices that actually remove noise from the line, and demonstrably so. I keep an isolation transformer on my amp.
- cheap audiophile-grade power cord?
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