A trick I picked up from Tangent is to remove the opamps from their socket(s), and ohm each socket pin to ground while looking at the schematic. See if they a) are the same between the two opamps, and b) make sense for what you should be seeing. If everything looks ok here, then ohm adjacent pins out. These two tests will show you whether the feedback loop is connected and configured correctly, etc. Other than this, the jacks being connected correctly and the pot, etc. are pretty much all that is left. And the PSU section. I assume you have already verified that you are getting +/- V/2 at pins 7 and 4 on each of the opamps?
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Swapping OP27s into CMOY - Page 2
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Pars:
Thanks for your tip.
I ohmed the socket and it confirmed that I had a bad solder joint at the amp out. It was a little suspicious with the dullness that was even worse than lead free, (Goes to show that not all connections are the same I suppose) but I had been letting it go because I was too lazy to fire up the iron...
Also, that I had a bad headphone jack.
With those two issues fixed, the my first amp works!
just a few bugs to iron out now,
I need to change RLed to a lower value so it is brighter, add a resistor in the output to kill some noise, and find an altoids tin or something similar to house everything.
Or may take my new found knowledge and attempt to build a better amp from scratch.
Thanks to everyone for all your help!
Also, something I think I should clarify though it doesn't really matter... I'm American, but have a tendency to ramble, thus the disclaimer. Sorry if I was giving the wrong impression.
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