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post #856 of 987

dacavalcante,

 

You mentioned you got the most drop-out when using the DI with the NFB-11. I think you may want to try something I just experiment with:  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500369/audio-gd-digital-interface/1815#post_7377078

 

It is cheaper than many coaxle cable upgrade and you can see it as a way of sound tuning at the least.

post #857 of 987

Quote:
Originally Posted by borrego View Post

dacavalcante,

 

You mentioned you got the most drop-out when using the DI with the NFB-11. I think you may want to try something I just experiment with:  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500369/audio-gd-digital-interface/1815#post_7377078

 

It is cheaper than many coaxle cable upgrade and you can see it as a way of sound tuning at the least.


 

Nice one! I could try that and check if there's no drawback in SQ as it's cheap and easy... =]

 

But regarding this issue after some words with Kingwa he suggested me to try another cable.... well I had already tried, but with a really cheap one and had drop out the same way.....

I don't have any good cables besides my DIY....

I thought: What d hell!! Let me check these suckers..... all... I have 5 coax DIY cable... turns out 3 were with the solder joints cracked... LoL.... yeah... I'm not too good with soldering iron and I usually make a lot of cold joint solder...

Although of this, all of them were working (but finally I found the reason for my stereo imbalance...

The fact is that one of them is the one used as digital cable from the DI to NFB-11, it was not too bad, but I was able to detect the solder wasn't good buy measuring it's resistance (1.4 ohms for 2.5m before, 0.7ohms after melting solder again).

So I took my smaller one (0.5m), to test the DI again without upsampling.... well... from 9AM to now (20:30 pm) I only had dropout around 13:15 o'clock for some minutes... 15-20minutes... then no more....

I'm also checking mains voltage since the morning or trying to relate the drop out behave with peoples habit in my apartment building (lunch time... people coming back from work... turn TV, microwave, air conditioner and so on...)... but still couldn't relate anything...

It's good to mention that until 13:00 the NFB-11 was with the lid open... 15 minutes after closing the drop out came into play... but I couldn't relate it to temperature... because I turned it off... used my fan to cool it down and after turning it on again drop out was still there... then after these 15-20 it just stopped and haven't occurred again..... and also this shows that it is very unlike linked to the building routine of demand on AC mains....

 

If think the whole issue was caused by a coax cable fault, I'll probably be sure about it tomorrow... and that the DI was doing a pretty nice job with upsampling turned on, to the point to overcome the cable fault...

 


Edited by dacavalcante - 4/1/11 at 4:44pm
post #858 of 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacavalcante View Post

... The fact is that one of them is the one used as digital cable from the DI to NFB-11, it was not too bad, but I was able to detect the solder wasn't good buy measuring it's resistance (1.4 ohms for 2.5m before, 0.7ohms after melting solder again).

So I took my smaller one (0.5m), to test the DI again without upsampling.... well... from 9AM to now (20:30 pm) I only had dropout around 13:15 o'clock for some minutes... 15-20minutes... then no more....

 

I read somewhere that coaxle digital cable is better to use no soldering but those screw clamping plugs. I don't know what the difference would be but it may save you some soldering troubles

post #859 of 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by borrego View Post



 

I read somewhere that coaxle digital cable is better to use no soldering but those screw clamping plugs. I don't know what the difference would be but it may save you some soldering troubles



Yes, I pretty much agree, but I really had never put a thought on that before, and thinking straight, you're right. Because coaxial cables like the one I use is pretty rigid, and it doesn't tends to bend very easily in high angles, this way it can easily put a lot of stress on solder joints when it moves or when the weight is pushing it's end head up.... I'll look for this screw types for now on, but I doubt it sell around here in Brazil... at least I have never saw.

 

Thanks for this tip! =]

post #860 of 987

Can anybody comment on the synergy between the NFB11 and orthodynamic headphones?

post #861 of 987

I reset my DI to passthrough, powered it by regulated 6V 400mah, and found a WASAPI plug-in for MediaMonkey(w00p)!

  I've been playing music for past 7hrs with no drop-outs at all. I can't believe how spacious, full and satisfying the music is.

Increase in SQ is most likely due to the streaming plug-in, and possibly a little due to cleaner power.

The NFB-11 has far exceeded my expectations, and is only getting better and better.... MINE!  haha

 

been sticking with MediaMonkey because I love the WVS plug-in, keyboard lights dance to differing rythyms.. and best

of all is the scrolling spectrum analyser! I like pretty lights.. :)  editable config too. behold my dank pic....  :)G-15a.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by vpsporb - 4/2/11 at 6:10am
post #862 of 987


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by vpsporb View Post

I reset my DI to passthrough, powered it by regulated 6V 400mah, and found a WASAPI plug-in for MediaMonkey(w00p)!

  I've been playing music for past 7hrs with no drop-outs at all. I can't believe how spacious, full and satisfying the music is.

Increase in SQ is most likely due to the streaming plug-in, and possibly a little due to cleaner power.

The NFB-11 has far exceeded my expectations, and is only getting better and better.... MINE!  haha

 

Hidden (Click to show)

 

 

been sticking with MediaMonkey because I love the WVS plug-in, keyboard lights dance to differing rythyms.. and best

of all is the scrolling spectrum analyser! I like pretty lights.. :)  editable config too. behold my dank pic....  :)G-15a.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

Nice vpsporb!

I realized something here.

My mains voltage varies a lot through the day...... it is most of the time 118V to 120V.... but late at night it's around 123V-125V. It's curious that yesterday when Mains voltage raised over 121v drop outs came back (DI with upsampling off), I had no drop out all day long, (excluding 30 minutes during between 13:15 to 13:45.... so 15 minutes after closing top lid which was open before 13:00).

 

I think it might be a overheat issue caused by high heat output when voltage is over 120V, because after opening the top lid and blowing it with a fan, 15 minutes later, no drop outs again.... temps must have been around 24C yesterday night.

 

Do you know how much volts you have on your AC mains ?


Edited by dacavalcante - 4/2/11 at 6:46am
post #863 of 987

>My mains voltage varies a lot through the day...... it is most of the time 118V to 120V.... but late at night it's around 123V-125V...

 

Besides going pure battery ($$$), go ups. An inexpensive load-following ups might be all you need since they also typically do voltage regulation as well as surge suppression. Of course a true on-line double conversion ups is best: ac to dc which charges battery, battery dc inverted to clean 60hz sine wave 120v ac. While they can get expensive new, a reconditioned 490-700 watt Liebert GXT2 should be < $200 delivered (they get heavy).

 

http://www.refurbups.com/Liebert-GXT2-700RT120-GXT2-700VA-120V?sc=2&category=30292

http://www.upsforless.com/liegxt700mt.aspx

post #864 of 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacavalcante View Post


 


 

 

Nice vpsporb!

I realized something here.

My mains voltage varies a lot through the day...... it is most of the time 118V to 120V.... but late at night it's around 123V-125V. It's curious that yesterday when Mains voltage raised over 121v drop outs came back (DI with upsampling off), I had no drop out all day long, (excluding 30 minutes during between 13:15 to 13:45.... so 15 minutes after closing top lid which was open before 13:00).

 

I think it might be a overheat issue caused by high heat output when voltage is over 120V, because after opening the top lid and blowing it with a fan, 15 minutes later, no drop outs again.... temps must have been around 24C yesterday night.

 

Do you know how much volts you have on your AC mains ?

Hey dacavalcante,
Sorry, I don't think I have a means of checking my mains voltage. I do have a multimeter... but it's probably not wise for me to stick the probes into a wall socket. :)

The UPS idea is probably a good one to help condition mains power,(If that's the culprit) I have no personal experience with one tho.

 

I have a mild breeze from a PC fan blowing on my stack, mostly because my Millet Hybrid MiniMax operates @quite a warm temperature.

 

Under the Top panel and screws in the rear portion, I put small plastic washers under, to lift the rear of the lid up a couple of millimeters for minor airflow.

Maybe I should put washers under the front top panel/screws too, to make it more even. (on NFB-11)

 

It's alot warmer in Sao Paulo than in Ottawa Canada now, mmm Brazil!  will be interesting to see what summer brings... but I don't think it's that sensitive to heat?
 

My setup looks to be drop-out free still, with 15 explorer windows open, torrents, moving files, can also even watch TV episodes over COAX @same time as listening

to Music over USB with no drop-outs. I only get a slight burble sometimes @track change.. due to WASAPI buffer size.. which is tweakable, so I'm a Happy camper.

 

-goodluck

post #865 of 987

 

>Can anybody comment on the synergy between the NFB11 and orthodynamic headphones?

 

I've only tried it (no usb, w/ TCXO crystal) with the HIFIMAN HE-6 orthos but can report that the sound is very clean and highly detailed: input = output w/ very low noise floor. The built-in headphone amp (1.8w @50 ohms) is not really powerful enough to drive the HE-6's for orchestral type sources; works well w/ chamber music, small 3-5 player jazz, R&R ... groups but not really loud. I also have it connected to a Schiit Lyr amp and there is plenty of power to clip your ears, no matter how deaf you are. In short, the NFB-11 works well w/ the HE-6's but really needs a more powerful amp. Independently of the amp, this is a great bargain in a DAC. On the more efficient side, my NFB-11 DAC comments remain the same and, in addition, the headphone amp works quite well w/ the Grado HP-1's.

post #866 of 987

anyone tried the NFB-11 with JH-13s?

post #867 of 987


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlawli View Post

 

>Can anybody comment on the synergy between the NFB11 and orthodynamic headphones?

 

I've only tried it (no usb, w/ TCXO crystal) with the HIFIMAN HE-6 orthos but can report that the sound is very clean and highly detailed: input = output w/ very low noise floor. The built-in headphone amp (1.8w @50 ohms) is not really powerful enough to drive the HE-6's for orchestral type sources; works well w/ chamber music, small 3-5 player jazz, R&R ... groups but not really loud. I also have it connected to a Schiit Lyr amp and there is plenty of power to clip your ears, no matter how deaf you are. In short, the NFB-11 works well w/ the HE-6's but really needs a more powerful amp. Independently of the amp, this is a great bargain in a DAC. On the more efficient side, my NFB-11 DAC comments remain the same and, in addition, the headphone amp works quite well w/ the Grado HP-1's.

 


 


 

You think its sufficient enough to drive the HE-5LE?

post #868 of 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarjorieO View Post
 

You think its sufficient enough to drive the HE-5LE?


Works fine with my LCD-2s -- remarkably well actually, so I don't see it as it having trouble. 

 

post #869 of 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by Currawong View Post




Works fine with my LCD-2s -- remarkably well actually, so I don't see it as it having trouble. 

 

 



I wonder why its sibilant on mine(HE-5LE). Synergy issues perhaps?

 

post #870 of 987

Currawong, what gain on the NFB11 do you use on the orthos?

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