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How Do I Make the HD 600 Cable Fit HD 25 Groove w/ Proper Dimensions???

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 

HD251II_ZoomPrivate.jpgHD600.jpg

 

 

Hello everyone,

 

I just got my HD 600 copper cable in the mail to upgrade my Sennheiser HD 25-1 II cans and I am a bit frustrated because I took them apart only to put the generic steel cable back on...

 

The new HD 600 cable has an "evenly" split seperate cable going to each cup, whereas the generic cable is "1/8" on one side and "7/8" on the other side I believe. Therefore, the new cable cannot reach both sides =/ But... I flatly refuse to invert the cups because I already like the aesthetics. So I'm looking to somehow alter and split the new cable to work around the headband... this kinda sucks because I was told the HD 600 cable would fit no problem =[

 

I just want the new cable to fit on my cans and for it to look the same as it originally did with the steel cable

 

If anybody can lay down a user friendly step-by-step (possibly with pictures) with what materials are needed to accomplish this. I will be forever grateful.

 

 

Much appreciated for all efforts and I'm looking forward to find an answer =)

post #2 of 19
Thread Starter 

*bump*

post #3 of 19

It can't be done - at least not easily.  Almost everyone who uses different cables with the HD25, flips the cups around and uses the "Y" configuration.  If you note, however, one cup's headband connector is screw-attached.  You can loosen that and use it as a take-up reel for the extra slack on the one lead in equal-length cables.  Whether the cable fits into the headband slots is a different question ...

 

Personally, I'd stick with the steel cable as delivered.  Once they burn in, that cable sounds better anyway.  A lot of the cable changing on HD25's is due to a lack of patience.  The steel cable causes quite a bit of sibilance when they're brand new, but once settled in, the steel cable adds more sparkle.

 

Just an FYI, but I thought most went for the HD650 cable - not the HD600's.  It's what I did, but as stated - switched back to the stock steel and have been happy with it ever since.


Edited by tomb - 10/9/10 at 1:05am
post #4 of 19

are you serious Tomb? you actually prefer the steel cables? I find this post suspicious

 

OP:  just flip the cups and be done with it mate its functionally better too IMO I hate single side cables. the only way you could conceivably do it is to use very thin wire with thin dielectric on a DIY cable


Edited by qusp - 10/9/10 at 3:16am
post #5 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post

are you serious Tomb? you actually prefer the steel cables? I find this post suspicious

 

OP:  just flip the cups and be done with it mate its functionally better too IMO I hate single side cables. the only way you could conceivably do it is to use very thin wire with thin dielectric on a DIY cable


I'm as serious as a heart attack.  I've tried several cables with the HD-25 II and I think the steel cable sounds the best.  It has a sparkle and punch that other cables don't have.  IMHO, HD650 cables just deaden the phones, not to metion all that ridiculous length for such a small headphone.  Yes - you can shorten it, but why do that when the steel cable sounds better (after burn-in)?

 

I'm not alone if you read the massive HD-25 II thread in the headphone section.  There are a few of us "weirdos" who prefer the original stock cable.
 


Edited by tomb - 10/9/10 at 6:10am
post #6 of 19

Although I have not heard the HD25, I have heard other sennheiser's with steel cables 

 

My impressions are on the HD414 and the HD580, but I preferred the HD650 cable to the steel which I thought sounded gritty. To each their own I suppose.

 

 

To the OP:

You could always get the connectors naked, and build your own cable.

post #7 of 19

hd25recabled3.jpg

 

?


Edited by limpidglitch - 10/9/10 at 6:32am
post #8 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by limpidglitch View Post

hd25recabled3.jpg

 

?


Yep - coiling the cable around the screw-attached cup is what I mentioned up there.  I'm not sure those slots haven't been sprung for a snug fit with the steel if you try to put that cable back in, though.

 

nikongod - I would never suggest the little steel cable for other Sennheisers.  There's a totally different impedance in play with the HD25's.  I just think it works and sounds better with the mfr-supplied cable (Is that Head-Fi heresy?).
 

post #9 of 19

The grooves fit the HD600 cable if you use a little force.

 

Preferring any manufacturer supplied cable is a grave Head-fi heresy, preferring steel over copper is an even greater Head-fi heresy.

Keep up the good work, I say wink.gif


Edited by limpidglitch - 10/9/10 at 11:50am
post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 

I have already spent $32.00 on this new 600 cable that fits the grooves brilliantly, so sticking with the steel cable is no option haha. I feel that inverting the cups would look odd as I walk around town bangin beats... so I need to find a way to somehow make the wire fit the dimensions and reach both cups using the headband. Does anybody have somewhat of a walkthrough for making the 600 cable work with my HD 25 cans???

 

Thanks a lot everybody, and by the way, I do agree that with a long enough burn in there is an exponential improvement (especially with bass) but... this is coming from someone that hasn't been able to compare the copper cable yet =( 

 

I'm a bit pissed because I made a couple threads digging for "that perfect cable" and people said that the 600 was the way to go. Now that I have it and attempted to install, I found out differently haha

post #11 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by oOReFuGee91Oo View Post

I have already spent $32.00 on this new 600 cable that fits the grooves brilliantly, so sticking with the steel cable is no option haha. I feel that inverting the cups would look odd as I walk around town bangin beats... so I need to find a way to somehow make the wire fit the dimensions and reach both cups using the headband. Does anybody have somewhat of a walkthrough for making the 600 cable work with my HD 25 cans???


Just a really wild thought here, but have you considered counting the number of cable turns on the short side cup in limpidglitch's photo up there?
 

post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 

Hmm... good call, I've seen that image from another thread way back and your shout solves half of the problem =) But it appears that the main problem resides with the length of the cable needing to reach the farther cup via groove. Therefore one side of the split cable needs to be approximately 2-3" longer

post #13 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by oOReFuGee91Oo View Post

Hmm... good call, I've seen that image from another thread way back and your shout solves half of the problem =) But it appears that the main problem resides with the length of the cable needing to reach the farther cup via groove. Therefore one side of the split cable needs to be approximately 2-3" longer



…Or the other 2-3'' shorter, hence coiling it up as shown. 

Should be simple enough.

post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 

Nope, the other side definitely needs to be longer. The coiled up or shorter side is fine if I use this method. But, the OTHER cable (same length), going to the left cup must make it up and around the headband groove. It can't because it is only long enough to make it about 3/5 of the way. So I really need to find a way to make it reach =/

post #15 of 19

Why can't you just make both sides longer by widening the split?

Please make a tiny bit of effort, I'm losing patience here.

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