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Yuin PK1 - Cannot Solder Plug! - Page 2

post #16 of 24
10/10/10 at 5:57pm

 

Originally Posted by faichiu View Post

can you post a picture, what kind of 1/8" jack did you use?


It was a Neutrik, I will reterminate my T50RP w/ this plug next week. I can post pics of the clear nail polish treatment.


Edited by leeperry - 10/10/10 at 6:12pm
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post #17 of 24
10/10/10 at 6:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post

 


It was a Neutrik, I will reterminate my T50RP w/ this plug next week. I can post pics of the clear nail polish treatment.


I am actually planning on using that plug to but I am not 100% on how to solder it. It doesn't look like any of the plugs I have used in the past. (crappy ratshack 1/8).

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post #18 of 24
10/10/10 at 8:22pm

Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post

so what would advise to use after having done the lighter trick to "seal" the soldering?


The solder is the seal.  If you make the joint properly, it will last longer than the headphones themselves, unless you use a solder type prone to tin whiskers.

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post #19 of 24
10/10/10 at 8:35pm

sure, but the lighter trick isn't too accurate...but OK I'll try to tin every part that's been burned.

 

@yellowjeep: it should be easy, I'll post some pics.

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post #20 of 24
10/11/10 at 9:19am
Thanks, I'll be interested to see how it turns out.
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post #21 of 24
10/11/10 at 2:03pm
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I'll try some of these ideas and let you guys know how it goes.

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post #22 of 24
10/11/10 at 2:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post

sure, but the lighter trick isn't too accurate...but OK I'll try to tin every part that's been burned.

 


you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the wire right at the edge of how far you want to remove the enamel.  The pliers will act as a heat sink, and prevent excess enamel from being burned (melted) off. 

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post #23 of 24
10/11/10 at 2:38pm


You may want to use some electronic tape to tape the area that you don't want it to be burn with lighter.

 

After you burn the area that you need  to solder, use alcohol to clean that area and the copper color should show up instead of black color.

Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post

sure, but the lighter trick isn't too accurate...but OK I'll try to tin every part that's been burned.

 

@yellowjeep: it should be easy, I'll post some pics.

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post #24 of 24
10/11/10 at 4:05pm

 

Originally Posted by yellowjeep View Post

Thanks, I'll be interested to see how it turns out.


there's some pics here actually.
 

Originally Posted by samsquanch View Post


you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the wire right at the edge of how far you want to remove the enamel.  The pliers will act as a heat sink, and prevent excess enamel from being burned (melted) off. 


sounds like a plan!

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