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[REVIEW & MOD] FiiO L6 LOD for Sansa Fuze - Page 4

post #46 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post

If you never solder anything before, this might not be an easy project to do. Once you put in the cost of a soldering iron and all the little things you need to do the mod, it might cost you more then the price of that eBay LOD.

 

That's what I was doubting about - is it worth buying the whole equipment for just one project... I can do soldering, the problem is not there, it's just I never done very precise soldering with microchips and things, that you have to take additional care :)

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I might get the Sansa and a decent LOD soon :)
 

 

post #47 of 67

It's not worth buying the equipment just for one project never to be used again, but it would be worth it if you wanted to use it for different things too.  But the worth of something is entirely up to whoever is buying it, in the end.

post #48 of 67
Hey ClieOS,
i posted some questions on the diyAudio forum about input caps.and, the guys over there are very much against the use of electrolytic caps in the signal path. One of the replies i got, said "even the best electrolytic caps lyk BG, nichicon, would sound worse than film caps".such strong opposition, i can't link the thread coz am using my cell right now. But if u want to check, my thread was named Cmoy Caps, my name is noobman92 over there.
post #49 of 67
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by psgarcha92 View Post

Hey ClieOS,
i posted some questions on the diyAudio forum about input caps.and, the guys over there are very much against the use of electrolytic caps in the signal path. One of the replies i got, said "even the best electrolytic caps lyk BG, nichicon, would sound worse than film caps".such strong opposition, i can't link the thread coz am using my cell right now. But if u want to check, my thread was named Cmoy Caps, my name is noobman92 over there.


Their advise seem pretty solid to me. Electrolytic caps is used mainly because they have relatively small size for a large capacitance. But they are not quite as transparent as film caps. Some prefer electrolytic caps because they bring a certain flavour / coloration to the sound and can be regarded as beneficial on a personal level. Ultimately however, film cap is the choice if space is not a problem and transparency is demanded. If you are building a cmoy, then you should choose film cap. But when it comes to coupling caps that need to fit into very tight space, a decent sounding electrolytic probably is the better compromise. Or you can do what I did in the L6, uses electrolytic caps of the right capacitance then bypass it with a small firm cap. It supposedly combines the pro of both.

 

post #50 of 67
But, 1uf wima film caps, won't they cut it right in the LOD here?
post #51 of 67
Thread Starter 

Where do you want to use the 1uF firm cap? cmoy or LOD?

post #52 of 67
LOD. Would it be small enough? I would be purchasing the LOD in a few days and am planning to replace the caps in it.
post #53 of 67
Thread Starter 

1uF flim cap (assuming it is a Wima) is huge. You will need to place it outside of the LOD housing in order to use it.

 

Here is size reference: The one I used in my L6 is the red Wima (0.068uF), which is used to bypass a 47uF OxiCap (read the first post of this thread). A 1uF Wima will be the same size as the grey color cap.

CMBB-2.jpg

post #54 of 67

And what value of the film caps should be ideal/ok for the LOD to work properly?

post #55 of 67

Anyone tried shortening the cable??

The L6 cables seems too long for me to stack the fuze on top of the e11.

Clieos how do u place your fuze n e11 for portable/pocket use?

post #56 of 67
FWIW here's how my portable setup looks with the AudioMinor LOD (5" total length)

portable_setup1.jpg
post #57 of 67

Clieos how do u even manage to open the lod?!?!

Just finally bought the caps but i cant seems to get the lod open. 

Is the lod glued?

post #58 of 67
Thread Starter 

The LOD is glued on 4 small spots: 2 on the side of the connector and 2 on the side of the strain relief. A little prying on the side should crack it open easily. You will need to glue it back though, once you finished the mod.

post #59 of 67

Tried it but failed badly. Almost destroyed the LOD n have thus glue it back without making any mod.

Guess maybe i'll get another l6 to try or order some ridax.

post #60 of 67
Thread Starter 

Ridax is even harder to solder since it is all tiny pins inside.

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