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Mini Dac TDA1543 X 4 NOS - Page 59

post #871 of 1003

Check the I/V resistor values with a multimeter - sounds like one value could be wrong.

post #872 of 1003
better get a different value too. 460 Ohm works best without distortion.

3dB is quite a lot BTW. That's 3V on the right and 1.5V on the left.
post #873 of 1003
Originally Posted by ]eep View Post

3dB is quite a lot BTW. That's 3V on the right and 1.5V on the left.


Nope - that's 6dB.

post #874 of 1003

Hello All, I'm new here.

Im reading this thread about Mini Dac and want buy it.

But I found sth similar, the same Muse(?) with modification:



It is worth of it? Im not good in electronic but maybe this is one of your proposed mods here. What you think?


And second question.

Did someone compare sound Muse 4xTDA with sound from Muse 1xTDA? I heard 1xTDA sounds in more analog way but it is not fully confirmed. 

post #875 of 1003
Hi Virgo and welcome. smily_headphones1.gif

No and no.
This premodded is to expensive for a stupid mod. €20 extra for 5 minutes work. And hope it lasts more than 6 months.
The output section capacitor now is replaced with a ELNA audio grade SILMIC II one. OBVIOUS IMPROVEMENT that BEAT THE ORIGNAL ONE
This means that one elco is replaced with another elco. This is of very little to no use. You need bipolar caps like MKT, MKP or PiO, most of which are to big. But sonically the best option by far is NO cap. Just short it out.
And there is nothing done about the maxed out V to the TDA's.

The single TDA can never be on the same level. Talking about more analog is bulI$#!7. If anything it sounds more electronic (in a bad way). Maybe if you compare with the 4xTDA in it's original state but it cannot compare to a modded one.
This is why: the single TDA can not produce enough output on its own (0,8V) so for (or even after) the I/V it needs an opamp. This deteriorates the audioquality. The modded 4x TDA has 4 chip to average errors and enough output (3V) to drive your amp (nominal 2,5V).

If you want a real modded one (it takes me 2 hours+) that sounds and looks good and lasts for years give me a PM or email.
Edited by ]eep - 1/18/13 at 6:27pm
post #876 of 1003


I would'nt bother with the silmic II,I have both the original and the silmicII versions,I really like the original but the silmicII was a disappointment to me,

it has a larger soundstage and a nice open sounding top end but the bass was a bit of a mess,soft and flabby sounding compared to the original.

post #877 of 1003

How does the sound quality from this unit, stock and/or modified, compare to something like the ODAC or the MS2+?

post #878 of 1003
I have no idea how those sound. But I guess they are delta sigma dacs? That means an I/V stage with opamps. In general I can say the modified Muse sounds cleaner, very detailed and yet natural and relaxed (in the sense that there is no listening fatigue). A delta sigma sounds wider and sparkly but somehow artificial. And even though there is more treble, details are less. You think there are more details but in reality detailing of a NOS DAC is more exact and natural.
post #879 of 1003



I got this dac with mods + smsl tripath mini amp (2x25W I guess). Now I am thinking about some preamp maybe...could anyone give me advise about some not too expensive preamps from ebay to buy that would be accurate to my setup?




for example something like that?



post #880 of 1003
You don't need a pre-amp (I think), you need more inputs. Try to keep your signal as pure as possible with no extra electronics. This is the strength of your setup!

This preamp isn't going to give you that. This preamp only gives you more (stable?) input signal. And while it does that it also blurs the input signal (however euphonic). What I think you need is a passive pre-amp consisting of an input switch (with relais) and maybe a potmeter. DIY shouldn't be to hard.

Here's some background that is hands-on and no BS.

It doesn't need to be fancy. I've just looked up passive pre amp on ebay and found a €1000 unit. Ridiculous for a box, switch, volume pot, a few sockets and a bit of wire. I think this will do the trick too: Pro-ject switchbox. Not to expensive (€119) and decent looks. Or this Pro-ject Pre Box SE (Silver) Zl 1114 (€280)

If you like reading BS (audiophile hyperbole bedtime stories) try reading this. It is actually not far off from what you need (I think) but the simplest functionality (which brings you exactly nowhere because it is only 1 input with an Alps potmeter in a box) costs $200 and prices rise with extra functionality. I hope the prices get you so angry that you start making your own. very_evil_smiley.gif
Or this one: look ma, no AC! Only $1700.
Edited by ]eep - 12/2/12 at 5:39am
post #881 of 1003

Thanks a lot for your reply.


However, a passive pre amp is something new for me; never heard about it.


Surely I won't buy such expensive passive's, so I try to build my own. I found some of:





3 inputs, 2 outputs (one for amp headphone, stable).


It uses one ALPS RK27112 potentiometer and one rotary switch 3 positioned.


Here is a diagram:





S1 is a switch


R1 is a potentiometer.


But also I've read some, that there can be some issues with passives connected with output resistance of source and input resistance with passive pre amp...


What do you think?

post #882 of 1003
Well, read the "Here's some background that is hands-on and no BS." (link see prv post)

But in short, you dont even need the potmeter and without it your switch is just a piece of wire. So that whole story is just BS. Your T-amp can handle it just ok, it just sees what is behind the switch. So nothing changes. If you would want to add the ALps volume then desolder the small one in the amp. And again: nothing changes (if the potmeter has the same value). It's as straightforward as plugging in a different cable for another source just using a switch. And if you can use a relay (it needs a few volts to flip the switch). That gives you better longevity because it is gasfilled so the contact doesn't oxidize. There are kits for sale that do just that with 4 or 6 or more inputs.
Edited by ]eep - 12/2/12 at 2:32pm
post #883 of 1003



I've tried to understand these informations. In this link about axiom, they are writing, that they don't have to use a potmeter; so, they are using some wires, rca sockets, some switch and a resistor. So how does this diagram will look like?


Also this one is not clear for me:


"The volume is adjusted by shunting your amp's input to ground via our volume control to ground and allowing the signal to flow into the amp by a "valve like" circuit. "


I am waiting for some clarifications...



post #884 of 1003
You don't need any resistors or potmeter. Just a switch and the rest is hookup.
This way the amplifier sees only the impedance of whatever is connected to your switch and vice versa. The potmeter in your amp will do the rest. Don't make it any harder than it is. rolleyes.gif

If you really really want you can take parts out of the amp and place them in your passive pre-amp. I don't know why but you could.
You could also make a bigger box for the amp and put in a switch and extra input sockets. You could even make a nice felt pen drawing on the box. Here are some nice quotes by Bob Ross to get you going... tongue.gif

That'll be our little secret.

Here's your bravery test!

Gotta give him a friend. Like I always say 'everyone needs a friend'.

We don't know where it goes. We don't really care.

Any time ya learn, ya gain.

Any way you want it to be, that's just right.

Clouds are very, very free.

Just put a few do-ers in there...

Oh, you'd be in Agony City by now.

Just scrape in a few indications of sticks and twigs and other little things in there. People will think you spend hours doing this.

Maybe in our world there lives a happy little tree over there.

People might look at you a bit funny, but it's okay. Artists are allowed to be a bit different.

Shwooop. Hehe. You have to make those little noises, or it just doesn't work.

We don't make mistakes, we just have happy accidents.

We're gonna make some big decisions in our little world.

This is the hardest part of this method. If you can do this, you can do anything.

Nothing like some Bob Ross quotes to get your creativity flowing.
post #885 of 1003

Hey guys, I've read a lot of nice things in this thread about the TDA1543 x4 Mini DAC by Muse, and I'm directly comparing it to another $60 DAC, the HifiMeDIY Sabre Dac (External PSU version).


Trying to figure out which one would be better between the two? Hopefully you can chime in with your opinions before my eBay bucks expires :D

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