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Mini Dac TDA1543 X 4 NOS - Page 51

post #751 of 947
Quote:
Originally Posted by curiousmuffin View Post

hehe even teralink users don't report much of any improvement with that powersupply, jeep.
Are you implying the Teradak PS is no good? confused_face_2.gif Or is it your opinion...? Like that polish PSU is the ticket, the $3 SMPS and Teradak are just no good.
Your remark isn't very helpful or serious. I've already modded 10pc of this dac before in different ways and I know my ears are fine (it's the grey fatty tissue in between that counts anyway).
Quote:
The absolute phase mod is done by reusing a gate in the HC00 which got freed up when I deleted the optical input.
I'm not going to sacrifice the optical in. But could you state that in plain english pls?
Edited by ]eep - 1/11/12 at 8:12pm

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post #752 of 947
Quote:
The absolute phase mod is done by reusing a gate in the HC00 which got freed up when I deleted the optical input.
I'm not going to sacrifice the optical in. But could you state that in plain english pls?


You'll need to find another digital inverter to add as you can't re-use a gate that's already in the design. The simplest to wire in would be the kind that comes in a 5-pin package - sometimes called 'picogate'.:

 

http://ics.nxp.com/products/hc/datasheet/74hc1g04.74hct1g04.pdf

 

The inverter goes in the data line - between the DIR9001 and the TDA1543s. There's a resistor making the connection between those two so that gives two convenient connection points. Best not to delete the resistor, just lift the end nearest the DIR9001 and then wire the inverter between the now bare pad and the upended terminal of the resistor. Input to pad.

post #753 of 947
Quote:
Originally Posted by ]eep View Post


Are you implying the Teradak PS is no good? confused_face_2.gif Or is it your opinion...? Like that polish PSU is the ticket, the $3 SMPS and Teradak are just no good.
Your remark isn't very helpful or serious. I've already modded 10pc of this dac before in different ways and I know my ears are fine (it's the grey fatty tissue in between that counts anyway).
 

well that's what i'm implying that others are saying... about the ps that comes with teralink.

 

perhaps this is where I should've been more clear- i wasn't talking about the ps that comes with charmeleon.

 

post #754 of 947
sorry, i should've been more clear. I was only talking about the ps that they offer with teralink. used to be that it was the only ps they sell separately, like 2 year ago. 
 
(as you can tell i've been out of the head-fi scene for a long time..) 

 


Edited by curiousmuffin - 1/12/12 at 7:41am
post #755 of 947

Hey yes.. the I/V resistor are really crucial in this DAC.

You only need to change 2, the resistor placed in the middle is responsible for the biasing of the output.

Yes, tantalum resistors are great , as well carbon (there is people that prefer the carbon over tantalum, is up to you).

 

Im about to upgrade all my mods, including rebiasing the dacs using an Spectrum analyzer.

The only thing I dont have right now is time confused.gif

 

Hope soon I have it working again bigsmile_face.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dippy View Post

Greetings to everyone.
I recently purchased this DAC because of the potential for mods and low price. Mostly because of the low price.
I have checked the regulator for the DIR 9001and its the 3.3v one so we're good there. Mine is the one with the white PCB board. It sounds pretty good unmodded and the I rather like the slight top end roll off which I would describe as organic sounding.
I would like to first upgrade the resistors on the I/V stage. (the 3 resistors near the LEDs). Do I have to change all 3 of them of just the 2 680ohm ones?
Edit: I just realized that all the resistors on the analog side should be changed.
Has anybody had any experience with tantalum resistors?
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/350231356583?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)
@curiousmuffin My stock DAC already has a 1000uF capacitor (the one near the DC jack) How about a 22,000uF? smily_headphones1.gif


 

post #756 of 947

PRP resistors sound nice in these at a decent price.. I use Texas Components Resistors in mine, but they are very boutique and quite pricey.. they made a world of difference though, but I've got a Chameleon.

post #757 of 947
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW View Post

PRP resistors sound nice in these at a decent price.. I use Texas Components Resistors in mine, but they are very boutique and quite pricey.. they made a world of difference though, but I've got a Chameleon.


 

Day and night I would say!

I use the Zfoi from Texas too.. much more air.. and detail.

In my bench test I use the carbons and metal from takman, they are good resistors.. but fall miles behind Caddock MK132, and Zfoil .

 

I have an AD1865N-K  wich sounds best, even with litle mods on it.

The main problem that the TDA1543 is so small.. so simple, I cant stop working on it biggrin.gif

 

post #758 of 947

Greetings,

 

Does anyone know Zout for unmodified version of this dac?

 

Thank you

boone

post #759 of 947

so heres what i did with mine so far. I was actually going to send it back for refund because I found a used audiosector dac but decided to keep it after one listen. i first dc coupled the output but didn't like the lack of dynamics it caused so instead pulled out 10uf 250v blackgate std from my other dac. with lead extension on the left one it barely cramps together in the case. sounds awesome this way. bass is back to being healthy, and almost no transparency loss. and then I did some sapiatiem's grounding mod before deciding to take out the 1543 decouplers instead. (got lazy)  

 

oh speaking of my other dac, it's a heavily modded lite dac60. and surprisingly, i find this little 1543 dac to sound better!! it's more transparent and musical, and after the mods, even the soundstage is better. certainly not as detailed but i'm kinda tired of hyper detailing of the lite dac. 

 

some gripes though, it's not as smooth as I hoped, and not overly warm- which I also hoped. could burn-in will fix this? also, i think only a long listening session can reveal this for me but the highs could be a bit grating. perhaps this is the result of 1543 decouplers coming out?  

 

though you can't really see from the pic, mine came with 39uf elna caps for digital side. 

 

photo (1).JPG

 

 

edit: ok there's something definitely wrong with the treble of my unit. my ears are strained! the treble fatigue is hard to describe. it's not noticeably glaring or anything like that. the best way i can describe it is distorted shimmer.


Edited by curiousmuffin - 1/25/12 at 2:54am
post #760 of 947
Quote:
Originally Posted by boone View Post

Does anyone know Zout for unmodified version of this dac?

Not certain as I've pulled out the original output resistors - but the silk screen says 680R. Its a bit higher than it should be to avoid clip. As a rough rule-of-thumb, a TDA1543 (passive I/V) should have I/V resistor of 1k divided by the number of paralleled DACs. In this case, with 4 DACs, 250R is about right.
 

 

post #761 of 947
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sapientiam View Post

Not certain as I've pulled out the original output resistors - but the silk screen says 680R. Its a bit higher than it should be to avoid clip. As a rough rule-of-thumb, a TDA1543 (passive I/V) should have I/V resistor of 1k divided by the number of paralleled DACs. In this case, with 4 DACs, 250R is about right.
 

 


 

There are hundreds of pages in diyaudio  about this topic, to avoid clipping there must be a setup between the Rload and Vref.  If you change your Rload and keep the Rref you can ruin the sound.

Take a look at this page:

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/g8hqp/audio/TDA1543IV.html


Edited by Chefano - 1/26/12 at 10:04am
post #762 of 947

Yep your link is a great resource - thanks. It says:

 

It looks like to use a TDA1543 with passive I/V without adjustment one should use 1k for both resistors. If DAC chips are paralleled then the common resistor values should be divided by the number of chips. 

post #763 of 947
I found 250 ohms to sound best with no clipping. I have tried a little more but that didn't sound right.
Quote:
i first dc coupled the output but didn't like the lack of dynamics it caused so instead pulled out 10uf 250v blackgate std from my other dac. ...sounds awesome this way. bass is back to being healthy, and almost no transparency loss.
I don't agree on this. What lack of dynamics??? I have no experience with black gates but I can't imagine they sound better than good MKT's snubbered with PiO's. And that made a huge difference for me (cp to none). (Maybe you don't notice it that much due to lack of definition in the ancillary equipment?)
ATM I am listening through a modded Sony MDR-F1 and all E88CC tube Sense G3 OTL fed by (equalised for MDR-F1) Foobar> Musiland monitor 1USD. That sounds really spacious, dynamic and detailed. When I bought this HP 15 years back I could never have imagined it to sound this good EVER! beyersmile.png
post #764 of 947

are we even on the same page? dc coupled means no output caps. the bass diminishes if you dc couple it which was even shown on a graph earlier this thread. ofcourse a proper film cap would sound better. i chose blackgates because theyre still able to fit in the box. 

 

post #765 of 947
Quote:
are we even on the same page?
Sorry for my crooked syntax... I know I'm not always that clear in conveying my thoughts in writing.

I mean to say that no caps sounds best in every aspect. Better than good caps and much better than elko's.
I have heard all tree options on my speakers that can deliver real bass and every detail that's in the music thanks to the lack of crossover-filter.
Quote:
the bass diminishes if you dc couple it which was even shown on a graph earlier this thread.
I disagree. Pls show me the graph. Explain, how does that happen? confused_face(1).gif

If you use 10µF your HP frequency is something like 30Hz, use less and it gets worse. DC-coupled means you lose nothing (including unwanted subsonic rumble and DC). But that is an easy compromise to consider against loss of detail, low level information and temporal accuracy. Bass on headphones is mostly overblown and way overrated anyway. Real (sub)bass is what you feel in your stomach.

If you feel best with using caps, I'm not holding you back. Be my guest. But don't give ppl wrong information. That's the curse of fora where everyone is free to speak his mind IMO.
Edited by ]eep - 2/2/12 at 5:27pm
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