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Vishay Dale RN60s - 1% to 0.1%

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

I'm an awful perfectionist and I'd like to have 0.1% matched resistors on my latest build. The spec sheet I'm following calls for 1% Vishay Dale RN60D's and I think I've found a suitable 0.1% equivalent in the same range - could someone quickly confirm that this swap will be alright?

 

Original P/N (Mouser): 71-RN60D-F-24.9

Original Serial: RN60D24R9FB14

 

Replacement P/N (Mouser): 71-RN60C24R9B

Replacement Serial: RN60C24R9B

 

I know I could just buy a load of the 1%s and match by hand but I find that a bit wasteful in both parts and money. Call it a convenience tax.

post #2 of 11

They appear to be identical parts, save only the "D" designation for 1% and the "C" for 0.1%.

 

Depending on your prerequisites, the RN55C would be about half the cost for slightly less power rating, and slightly smaller package size.  RN parts are derated for military use. The CMF part is the exact same part within the Vishay resistor lineup, only rated for civilian use, and labeled "CMF."


Edited by digger945 - 9/9/10 at 6:28pm
post #3 of 11

Buy lower tolerance and match yourself:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/295983/tutorial-how-to-match-resistors-up-to-0-01-using-a-cheap-dvm

 

the Wheatstone bridge will give you highly matched resistors.  Buying 0.1% resistors gets you highly accurate and inherently matched resistors.

post #4 of 11

The 24.9 ohm resistors are the emitter resistors on the output transistors ? I wouldn't stress about .1% matching. The transistors are hard to get matched closer than 1-2% unless you buy a big pile to sort thru. I found 2 dynalo sets of 1% matched trannys out of a 200 (100+100) lot. If you get unlucky with the batch you receive, the P & N group HFE won't overlap sufficent to get even a full set. The HFE differences @ 1% match will swamp any precision gained from .1% resistors.

 

If you wanted to really do something over the top nit-picky, you could buy a couple hundred 1% resistors and match the resistor-tranny pair in each rung of the ladder for equal idle current.  I don't think you would accomplish anything audible, but it would burn out the perfectionist urge.


Edited by bada bing - 9/9/10 at 10:17pm
post #5 of 11

What purpose do these resistors serve? Is there a benefit to tighter matching in this app beyond tighter matching for the sake of tighter matching?

post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the input. I'm still very new to the design of these amps so the technical insight is much appreciated. Is there any location on the board where there would be a potential benefit to the added resistor precision? If not then I'll settle happily for 1% - I'm a perfectionist, not a zealot. 

post #7 of 11

What are you building?

post #8 of 11

I think it is a Dynalo Ari (balanced IIRC, see the Dynalo rev. C thread).

 

And I agree with Bada Bing... the transistor matching will absolutely swamp the resistor tolerance differences. As for matching, not sure what schematic you are using, but the input FET pairs need to be matched well, and the resistors around them (R1/R2, R3/R4, R5/R6, and R7/R8) should be matched to each other as well. Use 620 ohm resistors for the CCS locations (R11/R15) and use trimpots in all locations. Read Amb's post on adjusting DC offset on a Dynahi, and use the same approach. Corresponding resistors from one half of the circuit to the other should in general be matched. The FET Idss and BJT hfe matching will be much more difficult to achieve anywhere near 1%, and if you really wanted to get anal about it, you would balance currents by varying the resistance to attain matching. And all for little if any sonic benefit.

 

Practical view: 1% resistors, match as closely as you can, match the FET Idss and BJT hfe as best you can, and go from there. That is what the trimpots are for. And Dale RN55s are fine.

post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 

Whoops, I forgot to mention that - must've mixed this thread up with another I was posting in. Pars is correct, I'm building a balanced Dynalo using the PCBs available from AMB (it's djgardner's schematic).

 

I was under the impression that the RN55s were shorter than the RN60s - is there any appreciable difference other than package size and lower cost? The cost of the RN60s at 1% tolerances is very cheap over here in the UK anyway so I'll probably stick with the RN60s from the original specification.

 

Pars, I've seen posts around here before that suggest 590ohms for those resistors instead of the 499 in the spec so there obviously seems to be some benefit in raising the resistance. Can I ask what the function of these resistors is?

 

Thanks for the help so far, much appreciated.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikongod View Post

What are you building?

post #10 of 11

Those resistors, in conjunction with Q1/Q2, D1/D2 and the trimpots, form a pair of CCS's (constant current sources). These particular ones are designed to source 2mA, 1mA each of which go thru the pair of 200 ohm resistors to the FET sources. The LEDs were chosen to be approx. 1.6-1.7V and these bias the bases of Q1 and Q2. Subtract the Vbe drop (~0.7V), and you have ideally 1V across R11/R15. 1V / 500 ohms = 2mA. SInce the trimpots are in parallel, if you use a 499 ohm resistor, the highest it can go is 499 || 10K, or 475 ohms. I normally use 10K pots, not the 100K shown in the schematic also. 590 ohms would be fine, I normally use either 620 or 680 as I had these around.

post #11 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizzel View Post

Pars, I've seen posts around here before that suggest 590ohms for those resistors instead of the 499 in the spec so there obviously seems to be some benefit in raising the resistance. Can I ask what the function of these resistors is?

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pars View Post

 

Those resistors, in conjunction with Q1/Q2, D1/D2 and the trimpots, form a pair of CCS's (constant current sources). These particular ones are designed to source 2mA, 1mA each of which go thru the pair of 200 ohm resistors to the FET sources. The LEDs were chosen to be approx. 1.6-1.7V and these bias the bases of Q1 and Q2. Subtract the Vbe drop (~0.7V), and you have ideally 1V across R11/R15. 1V / 500 ohms = 2mA. SInce the trimpots are in parallel, if you use a 499 ohm resistor, the highest it can go is 499 || 10K, or 475 ohms. I normally use 10K pots, not the 100K shown in the schematic also. 590 ohms would be fine, I normally use either 620 or 680 as I had these around.



Pars is correct on the technical description.  As a practical matter there are a couple considerations though.

 

The red LEDs that are common now generally have a slightly higher forward voltage than they did a few years ago when the dynalo was designed. It's more common now to receive red LEDs that average 1.85v~1.92v. You should buy at least 25 good quality LEDs  from the same source to find 2 well matched pairs for each board. Whether the pairs measure 1.7v or 1.9v isn't important.  What is important is the relationship between the resistor value and the LED voltage. The trimmers have two functions, the first is to adjust output DC offset. The second is to set the Class A idle current on the outputs. If your LED voltage is greater than 1.65V and you use 499 ohm resistors, you will run out adjustment on the trimmers before you can get the output bias down to specification and the amp will run a bit hotter. If you read the old construction threads from a few years ago, problems with amps running hot were common. The easy fix for people with higher voltage LEDs was to increase the paralleled resistance.

 

The short answer-recommendation: Use at least 560 ohms. If your LEDs are >1.85v, use at least 650 ohm. The downside to having the resistance higher than needed for the LED voltage is the adjustment trimmers become a bit more sensitive and jumpy, but you can still adjust. The downside for having the resistance too low is you run out of adjustment before you can get the output bias down to spec.

 

When you get ready to make initial adjustments on your build, read the old threads. There is an excellent post by AMB back in an old DynaHi thread (the DynaHi uses the same offset and bias adjustment scheme). I'll see if I can find the link in the next few days.  After you've actually done the adjustments once, it will become much clearer and easier than reading posts will ever make it.

 

*Edit*

I found the post by amb on adjusting the bias and offset on the DynaHi. The proceedure on the Dynalo is identical except some of the measurements and component values are slightly different. I have copy-pasted amb's original post below and inserted red colored edits of appropriate values for a dynalo. Hopefully someone else familiar with the Dynalo will double check my edited values.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb View Post
 

Dynahi setup procedure

If you have both 10KΩ trimpots installed on each amp board channel, then you use them to adjust the bias and offset.

First, make sure that the DC servo opamps are unplugged, then power-up the amp and let it warm up. Set the volume control to minimum setting (if equipped). If not, then short the left and right inputs to ground with a 1KΩ resistor.

Measure the voltage across any of the 20Ω 24.9Ω output resistors. For the proper amount of bias, you should get 0.75V 0.40V (which corresponds to 75mA 15mA of current on each output transistor branch). You should turn each of the trimpots to increase or decrease the voltage. If the voltage is too high and you can't reach 0.75V 0.40V even at the minimum trimpot position, then you should replace the 500Ω resistors that are in parallel with each of the trimpots to 620Ω or 680Ω and re-test. Once you get about 0.75V 0.40V on all the 20Ω 24.9Ω  output resistors, check the output DC offset. Turn one of the two trimpots to change the offset toward 0mV, a little at a time, and simultaneously turn the other trimpot in the opposite direction. Re-check the voltage across the 20Ω 24.9Ω resistors, make adjustments as necessary. Repeat this until you get less than 1mV of DC offset, and still have the correct voltage across all those 20Ω resistors.

Do the other channel the same way.

Wait 15 minutes for all voltages to settle, re-check and readjust slightly if necessary. Once you're done, power off and let all capacitors drain down. Install the DC servo opamps and power up again. Check the DC offset to make sure all is well. Remove the 1KΩ shorting resistors at the input if you had put them on.

Hope this helps.

 


Edited by bada bing - 9/10/10 at 11:58pm
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