Is there a left and right channel in the head phone cord? I ask because the right driver plays perfectly, but I'll have to wiggle the cord to get the left side to work. I can fix this by just cutting off the end and soldering another 1/8 adapter to the end?
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Yes, the three segments of the 3.5mm jack (the gold parts separated by a black strip) are, from the tip down, left, right, and ground. Assuming the damage is at the point where the wires are soldered to the 3.5mm jack, this could work, but if the damage is where the wires are soldered to the driver, you'll just have to reconnect it inside the cup.
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Ruch: Sorry for disappearing, I forgot about this and my life got in the way...
The wires inside the cups are still not pulled tight so it's safe to say the drivers are fine, it is a break in the cable somewhere... It may be in the knot as the wire there is already under pressure there - if you unstick the knot and play with it while music is playing can you get sound? The break could be literally anywhere though, if you bend the wire at the break you will get sound as it briefly reconnects. If this is near the plug or earpieces you could just shorten the cable either end - remember which colour goes where on the driver (you have pics, so all good there) or destroy the plug. If the break is in the middle you'll need a new cable.
£40 for the work alone seems very steep and will only get you another weak cable, you might be better looking elsewhere. My offer to have a go at fixing them still stands and I promise to check back this time!
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my guess is that the es7 will sound dramatically better with a decent quality recable. they respond very well to minor, portable amplification like a cmoy in my opinion, so i am very curious to see how much a good recable affects the sound. the OP may be interested in recabling techniques, and i know i am. my plan would be to use shielded, two-conductor, relatively low-guage (big) wire from the plug to the y splitter, then for each driver, run the positive and negative wires braided with a "shield" wire, both shield wires being directly soldered to the shielding which terminates in the splitter. anyone have any better ideas? the only change i can think of would be to use continuous wire all the way to the driver using 4-conductor wire to eliminate the resistance caused by solder. ive always found it cumbersome to solder 4 wires to a stereo plug though.
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Ruch: Sorry for disappearing, I forgot about this and my life got in the way...
The wires inside the cups are still not pulled tight so it's safe to say the drivers are fine, it is a break in the cable somewhere... It may be in the knot as the wire there is already under pressure there - if you unstick the knot and play with it while music is playing can you get sound? The break could be literally anywhere though, if you bend the wire at the break you will get sound as it briefly reconnects. If this is near the plug or earpieces you could just shorten the cable either end - remember which colour goes where on the driver (you have pics, so all good there) or destroy the plug. If the break is in the middle you'll need a new cable.
£40 for the work alone seems very steep and will only get you another weak cable, you might be better looking elsewhere. My offer to have a go at fixing them still stands and I promise to check back this time!
suicidal orange - no problem! thanks for the offer, honestly that would be great - how much do the parts to a new cable usually cost? If I'm replacing the cable obviously I'd want to get one of higher quality, (of sound and of durability), but my main problem is that I also wear these a lot when out/travelling.
So I can't have a cable that's too "clunky" and thick - what price would we be talking about?
Also I've tried playing around with the cable at different parts and still can't get any sound - when they got caught they did get yanked pretty damn hard so it may a complete snap as opposed to a minor one. I'll let you know if I find out where the damage occurred!
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update - I went a bit crazy and decided to get rid of the insulation on the wire to determine where the break was.
It did indeed happen at the knot, so now what I need to do is recable the headphones completely as I'm now left with only the cable above the knot :(
does your offer still stand suicidal_orange? :)
Edited by ruch182 - 9/10/10 at 9:10am
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it might be cool to put a little plug on each housing so that you can completely disconnect the cable from the headphones. that way, it wont be weakened by storing the cable looped up or whatever, and if you ever pull really hard on it again, it will just disconnect. i might give this a shot on mine.
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That's a shame - it would have been a very quick job to cut them off at the knot, but a recable it is!
The only problem with a portable recable is finding a thin enough wire, but I'll have a look. Do you want it to look sane or are pretty colours OK? Many people use mini quad for recables and that tends to be two blue and two white wires, one of each to each ear. You can cover it in techflex or nylon fillament to make it black but this does cost more... I'll get back to you later tonight if I've found anything that looks suitable.
As to cost it's a couple of quid for a plug and wire is sold by the meter - I've never actually bought cable for a recable but have used premade cables on two of my headphones so choosing the materials is more worrying than the work!
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Sorry for the delay, I've been looking and http://uk.farnell.com/belden/1804a/cable-1804a-4-core-per-m/dp/1279078 is the smallest quad cable I can find, but it's not cheap. That's the blue and white I was expecting to see but has silver plated conductors may sound different to the original copper only cable... http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/20492/30-920_MOGAMI-2893-CABLE is cheaper but bigger and it's four colours after the split, and is not silver plated. These might be available cheaper elsewhere, but I'm not going to look unless you're interested 
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