Quote:
Originally Posted by
baka1969 
Although I appreciate what Bill said, I agree with Peter. I would add that the HF-2 is another I would upgrade to as well as the RS1.
I've owned the 225 and the 325is at the same time. I also owned the 325is and the HF-2 at the same time. Just not all three at once. I thought the 325is was just too shrill and piercing to me. IMHO, the 225(i) is the sweet spot on the entire Grado lineup.
Although, if you have the skill, you could do mods like Bill does. :)
I also agree with Peter. The SR325 does have an issue with shrillness. It's just that this problem is the result of a tonal imbalance in unmodded, unamped, 325s. The 325 delivers some pretty sweet sparkle but without an equal amount of bass, you can only turn the volume up so much before things grate. Properly amped, the 325 has enough bass to even out - and when it does, it's an unsung hero in the Grado lineup. Without an amp, the SR225 is a safer choice, but with the right amp, the 325 shines.
With respect to mods, I discovered a few interesting things when I opened up the 325. Take a look at this:

On the back of the driver frame, there is a paper/cloth that covers 10 tiny holes. The paper/cloth is semi-permeable, to allow some venting of the driver. It's a form of bass reflex, but because the driver runs on such low wattage, this driver cloth usually needs a little push from an amp to get the kind of airflow these headphones need to match the sparkling highs with decent bass.

Right out of the box, the permeability, as reflected in the degree of translucency, is pretty weak.

With a little steam, you can soften up the glue that holds the shells together and then pry the cups and shells apart.

Not only is the cloth a little heavy for unamped sound; the aluminum cups have plastic blockage. In addition to the plastic button on the outside, there's a plastic ring inside, which Grado uses to hold the metal-mesh screen in place without welding.

With a pen you can vent the driver backs. I've found ball-point pens to be most effective. They pop what they need to pop, but because of their wedge-like nature, they stop short of damaging the diaphragm. Before I discovered the benefits of the ball-point, driver venting was a little more perilous.

Venting the driver really brings out the bass. It allows the driver the kind of airflow it would normally need an amp to achieve. Grado pops four of these holes in its top drivers. I pop the full ten because I like the effect. I know of others who have scaled back in order to tighten up the bass. If you have a great amp, you don't need to do this, but it sure makes iPod listening more enjoyable.

As you can see, the 325is, like a number of other Grados redesigned in 2009, has four-connector wire, which is basically a double-wiring of each channel. This is why the better new Grados come with the "garden hose" for a cable.

The ten-hole "vent mod" opens things up in a terrific way. It vents some of that heavy sparkle. It also provides bass reflex. If you're planning to use a high-powered amp, you won't need the venting but for most people, a mod like this can work wonders.

I also like to remove the grill cloth, which I suspect to be different on different models.

Doing so leaves behind "sticks" or "spaghetti" which needs to be removed, either by the point of a knife, tweezers or nimble fingers.

A clean grill produces a cleaner sound. Whatever protection the grill cloth offers can be duplicated by lightly blowing on the grill periodically to remove dust and/or hair.


The next step is to get rid of the plastic ring and the plastic rear-grill button.

I removed mine by boiling the aluminum shell. This softened up the glue and made it easy to pry the plastic off, though it still left glue residue. My next step, then, is to use my soldering iron to heat the glue till it drips off the wire.

My camera has picked up the residual glue that I still need to remove. It's not as noticeable without the flash and high resolution but it's something I'll remove as occasion permits. Just removing the plastic ring and plastic button, however, have produced remarkable results - a much cleaner, more euphonic response.


The last of the cheap mods, before installing woodies and recabling, is to reposition the cushion so that the front hangs low while the rear rides the top of the front driver grill. This allows the pinnae to fit inside the bowl created by the cushions. This takes pressure off the ears. It keeps bass from escaping through the back. It positions the whole headphone squarely against the side of the head. It provides a version of the jumbo that angles the driver, fits better and maintains a lower profile. I think the soundstage is better as well - and without losing bass.

Edited by Bilavideo - 9/5/10 at 3:24am