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cd player mod, pls help

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

I would like to mod the Teac C-1D cd player. Apart from the opamp mod, what else can I do with this? The cap in the circle may the the output buffer but i am not sure. There is no value on it therefore I am not sure what can I change. I have already got the service manual. Any suggestions are welcome.

The service manual are available and I am glad to share if you want to have a look. Thanks. DSC05430s.jpg

post #2 of 15

Any suggestions....

 

try asking on diyaudio?

post #3 of 15

Replace all monolithic voltage regulators with Regulator Boosters?

post #4 of 15

Reasonable upgrade: replace op-amps as you mentioned and replace all diodes with Schottky 11DQ10.

Expensive upgrade: go with discrete op-amps like the http://www.newclassd.com/index.php?page=55

and maybe also go all out with a reference clock http://www.lcaudio.com/index.php?page=4

 

Here some more info. about regulators: http://www.newclassd.com/index.php?page=70


Edited by Albedo - 9/7/10 at 4:01pm
post #5 of 15

c535 and the electrolytic next to it might be for output coupling ( there is a similar pair on the other side of the opamp, for the other channel?).

 

a picture of the under side of the board might be helpful.


Edited by AudioCats - 9/7/10 at 8:19pm
post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 

thx. I have changed the opamp from opa2604 to lme49720. The next step may be  Schottky 11DQ10. What is the sonic effect of this Schottky diodes?

post #7 of 15

Changing the diodes reduces the grain in the sound and makes it smoother.. less "digital", it drops the noise floor and gives a overall noticeable improvement to the sound.

post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 

Regarding the Schottky 11DQ10, should I care about the value? Can I just change all diode in the cdp with 11DQ10? The value of diodes in service manual are 1S60I, 1A3-I, zener diode 30V 1/2W, zener diode 5.1v 1/2W J, 1SS133-T-77. I am not familar with electronic so it is difficult for me.

 

the following info are found on data sheet:

For 11DQ10, Maximum Recurrent Peak Reverse Voltage=100V

For 1A3,  Maximum Recurrent Peak Reverse Voltage=200V

For 1S60, Maximum Recurrent Peak Reverse Voltage=60V

 

If I replace the 1A3/1S60 with 11DQ10, will I burn the board?


Edited by geneltd - 9/12/10 at 9:51pm
post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 

I have just measure the power out from transformer. The stepped down AC voltage from 5 wires are

 

1---9V

2---ground?

3---9V


4--3.5V

5--3.5V

 

I think any diode will do the job of bridge rectifiers as the voltage is so low (pls correct me if I am wrong). Why the company decided to use a diode with Maximum Recurrent Peak Reverse Voltage=200V/60V? It doesn't make sense... Any one know the answer?

 

 

post #10 of 15

Only info. I have on the diodes are the instructions from Hi-Fi News & Record Review Jan. 1999 on a Cambridge Audio DacMagic mod. project:

Quote:
Rectification diodes were swapped from cheap 1N4004 to Schottky 11DQ10 for all rectification stages. Careful orientation should again be observed, with the 'banded' diode end corresponding to the 'line' (cathode) side marked in the circuit diagrams (and printed on the board itself).

 

At diyaudio.com a member said: "Possibly one of the biggest improvements (after changing op-amps) we got out of all kinds of tricks were replacing all the diodes to I think BYT53". 

 

That's all I can contribute with concerning diodes, another cheap trick that worked for me was putting a ferrite on the wires from the transformers to the main board. Also putting some rubber grommet or blue tack on the housing covering the main clock crystal may improve the sound.


Edited by Albedo - 9/13/10 at 8:32am
post #11 of 15

You can't replace a zener diode with an 11DQ10, at least not without some annoying consequences :)

 

Replace the rectifier diodes only.

post #12 of 15
Thread Starter 

blue tack ?? interesting idea. theory?

post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 


thx
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pars View Post

You can't replace a zener diode with an 11DQ10, at least not without some annoying consequences :)

 

Replace the rectifier diodes only.



 

post #14 of 15

Quote:

Originally Posted by geneltd View Post

blue tack ?? interesting idea. theory?

 

Well it's just something I remembered, probably it's just placebo as where vibration is a problem there is isolation mounted crystal, but blue tac is cheap and it might reduce jitter. Have seen some biased reports that it had an effect, but not any cold measured data. Best thing is to go with the lowest priced jitter clock upgrade -> http://www.trichordresearch.com/cdupgrades.html
 

post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks Albedo. Your recommendation is great. The 11DQ10 work like magic. The sound is much smooth. The base control is improved. May be i upload some photo of my work later.

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