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SR60-Mod - Page 61  

post #901 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Northern NJ. No shortage of dollar stores around, I will have to search for something suitable.


Yup Google shows a boat load of Dollar Trees. Hell more dots of dollar trees there than we have in real estate for sale.

post #902 of 5003

OK... I'm geting close to having my SR125i cans dialed in...

 

1) Dynamat Extreme (3/4 inch circle) on back of drivers.

2) Dynamat Extreme (3/8 inch strip) on (around) inside of both inner and outer shells.

3) 4 holes punched out but three now covered back up. (now only one hole open)

4) removed plastic screen and model # button.

5) replaced screen and button with black wire mesh from office products letter holder/devider.

6) lightly sanded paint off outer shell lettering. (now just black lettering)

7) now using L-cush bowls rather than stock S-cush pads.

8) still experimenting with bowls on normally versus reversed.

9) have not yet removed the white fabric mesh from the drivers, as I'm afraid they may get too brite.

 

This is sounding really good to me. More holes made the upper base and mids too boomy. These SR125i cans have the thicker cord made with double wires of the model 60s and 80s. So I'm not sure I'll go for a wire upgrade. I guess I now have to decide on wood or just stay where I am. Thanks for all of the advice.

post #903 of 5003

BlazerHead- The white linen was the most subtle change, it is letting the sound through so taking it off isn't going to make a "man I screwed it up now" moment. I like the way it looks on the cups, the donut bowls or whatever and the white linen look sharp. 

 Item 2)--confused me, are you saying you put a thin strip where the two tubes overlap?? Damp that edge??

post #904 of 5003

eclein... I'll try to explain...

 

1) The smaller half that contains the speaker driver: I have a 3/8" strip of Dynamat completely covering the inside circumference of this cup. That comes right up to the edge.

 

2) The larger half that fits over the smaller half: I have another 3/8" strip around the inner circumference at the end farthest away from the driver. In fact, this dynamat strip is what is holding my new screens in place.

 

This leaves the inner part of the large cup (3/8" closest to the driver) not covered, so that it can slip over the smaller cup as from the factory. When I put the two halves back together, the entire inside circumference is covered with Dynamat. The plastic edge of the smaller half touches the Dynamat on the larger half when pushed back together.

post #905 of 5003

So basically your putting dynamat on all interior walls of your cans?? Your not using wood???

So with all the dynamat and all what type of sound are you getting, is it still open and airy?? More Bass? Less?

 

I'm only asking because I think Bill at one point said he covered the inside of his with felt and it was not a good result....your doing the same except with dynamat correct??

 Great idea to use it to hold the screen!!!!!

post #906 of 5003

You are correct. The entire inside walls are lined with Dynamat. I am not sure that really has a positive effect on the sound. The human ear can not easily discern small differences in sound after even a short period of time. I can not easitly remove and replace that Dynamat for quick comparisons with/without.

 

Overall with my mods, I can say:

 

1) they seem more open, less muffled highs (likely the bowl pads being open in the middle.

2) more pronounced but not boomy bass. (likely the vented driver with one hole open) and maybe the dynamat on the back of the driver.

 

I wonder if there is a down side to the exposed aluminum of the Dynamat on the inside... a hard surface for sound to bounce around. I've though about loosly filling the rear cups with cotton, similar to what you see inside a stereo speaker when you open them up. This would help prevent sound waves from bouncing back to the drivers. this is likely a useless idea since the backs are completely open but for the screen.  And that may be why Grado has those holes in the driver covered to beging with!

post #907 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

So basically your putting dynamat on all interior walls of your cans?? Your not using wood???

So with all the dynamat and all what type of sound are you getting, is it still open and airy?? More Bass? Less?


The highs are slightly reduced, but the overall sound is less plasticy. I'm surprised he didn't notice anything, I immediately noticed an improvement

post #908 of 5003

I want the wood in my case to do its thing with the sound so I'm only going to use dynamat on top of the driver, maybe some to hold in the screen....it all depends on the sound.

post #909 of 5003


are you talking about the aluminum on the back of the dynamat? you should take that off if you are.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazerHead View Post

You are correct. The entire inside walls are lined with Dynamat. I am not sure that really has a positive effect on the sound. The human ear can not easily discern small differences in sound after even a short period of time. I can not easitly remove and replace that Dynamat for quick comparisons with/without.

 

Overall with my mods, I can say:

 

1) they seem more open, less muffled highs (likely the bowl pads being open in the middle.

2) more pronounced but not boomy bass. (likely the vented driver with one hole open) and maybe the dynamat on the back of the driver.

 

I wonder if there is a down side to the exposed aluminum of the Dynamat on the inside... a hard surface for sound to bounce around. I've though about loosly filling the rear cups with cotton, similar to what you see inside a stereo speaker when you open them up. This would help prevent sound waves from bouncing back to the drivers. this is likely a useless idea since the backs are completely open but for the screen.  And that may be why Grado has those holes in the driver covered to beging with!

post #910 of 5003

I tried removing the aluminum backing from the Dynamat but that is not possible. It is stuck really well to the soft gooey rubber. You can not peel the rubber off the aluminum and still have some type of "sheet" to work with. And if you stick the Dynamat where you want it after removing the paper side, you can then not remove the aluminum with pulling off much of the rubber.

post #911 of 5003

One thing I've mentioned before is using hot glue instead of dynamat or felt. To line the chamber with a thin layer, simply apply a bead of glue all around, then use the side of the glue gun nozzle to smooth it out.

post #912 of 5003

Here's a couple pics, this isn't the finished product but this what I have so far: 

 

The cocobolo cups are Bill's, the pictures don't do the Cocobolo cups justice.  They are really nice wooden cups.

I made the leather headband, it's a bit messy even though I was very careful-I never want to make another one of those again.

 

IMG_0641.JPG

 

IMG_0638.JPG

 

 

IMG_0640.JPG

 

 

 

post #913 of 5003
What kind of leather did you use?

And now that I've seen the loose mesh, I feel more willing to buy the hex mesh I saw to use it on the future cups. But how are the screens attached? The don't look bent at all.
post #914 of 5003

I received a second sr80i today, and I think it sounds pretty damn good stock. I'll be pimping this one out too.

post #915 of 5003

How do they sound, they look fantastic!!!!!   Bravo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Kimchee- Did you just put the leather and padding over the existing headband??

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