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SR60-Mod - Page 59  

post #871 of 5003

Man are those Bill's cocobolos'? Ok, I admit that didn't come out right biggrin.gif

 

But you guys know what I'm getting at...with all the positive results, it does make me wanna give it a go.

 

Bill, I was wondering, if I use cocobolo to house the driver (you know, get rid of the dang plastic) then pair it with the aluminium of the 325is cups, how would they sound? I should think it would be how a HF-2 would sound like, which I have no idea since nobody I know over here has one.

post #872 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

I'm so pumped, I'm getting wood!!!!!!   LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Oh my!! ;)

post #873 of 5003

My Bilagrado SCM 6.0 is now fully functional and sitting on my head; and I must say sounds rather good. It has quite a bit of eyeball dressed in cocobolo and jumbos. I wasnt quite sure about the jumbos at first but I'm really starting to like them. I didnt like them on the HF2 at all but they behave totally different on the modded 60. on the HF2 it seemed like they sucked out the mids or recessed them to much. they dont seem to be doing that to the Bilagrado at all. There is a sense of a lot more space than what these behaved like in plastic with comfies. The addition of the silver cable also seems to have improved the clarity. I cant say for sure because it's been a while since I heard them but when I had my 225's they sounded very, very similar to the 60 to me, only more detailed and a little airier. With Silver cable these things sound more detailed and a little airier. The big difference is in the tone though, the resonance of the wood versus the plastic, the timbre of the bass, just everything about it is better than it was. I really like the way they turned out, Thanks Bill and everyone that has contributed in this thread Still reluctant to remove the grill cloth. For those of you have done it what is your before and after impression?

post #874 of 5003

The White linen thing? If yes, then sit in front of your hifi speakers with each speakers grill clothes on close your eyes and have someone remove them and you'll most likely hear a bit more clarity-subtle. Thats what taking the white linen off did, it was subtle, the most subtle of the mods so far. 

 

I like the new model-- BilaGrado

We'll have to submit photos of our BilaGrado's to Grado.

post #875 of 5003

Actually I used electrical tape as per Bilavideos youtube video.  You can't see it once you get the cups together and the pads on.

 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bill View Post


Hello KimChee, would you please tell us what material you used to make your shims??

 

Thanks in advance, Bill.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by KimChee View Post

I just got done............ shimming the Cocobolo cups, and putting them back on the forks.  

post #876 of 5003

Ive read someone with the Grado grattle problem emailed them and they suggested compressed air..
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

I seem to have a small rattle in my right cup during music with lots of bass. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? It doesn't seem to be hair, I have tried blowing in it with no effect, I am just hoping its nothing major. Its weird because it seems fairly intermittent, doesn't appear to be happening all the time.

post #877 of 5003

I tried blowing into my drivers, I really don't think its a fatal issue (as most of the Graddle ones seem to need to be sent back to Grado, something I likely couldn't do since I have already vented my drivers). I will have to play around with blowing into them again later, as it very well could be a hair. I have a large hairy dog (one reason I am leery to open up the cloth screens covering the driver). This issue does seem similar to when I get hair sticking through the pads on my KSC-75's. I might need to charge the old compressor up and blow things out a bit more. I am just hoping I didn't dammage the drivers, something I am doubting considering how easily I have been treating them.

post #878 of 5003

Are the magnet housings dampened? I had buzzing after increasing the bass through the vent mod. Dampening the magnet cured it.

post #879 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimChee View Post

Actually I used electrical tape as per Bilavideos youtube video.  You can't see it once you get the cups together and the pads on.

 


 



Thanks KimChee!

post #880 of 5003
Quote:

Originally Posted by KimChee:

View Post

 Thinking about possibly gluing the forks to cups I pushed the pins out so they would fit, now they slide a bit..any thoughts? 


I took my pins out and set them aside for the moment but I think the pins actually serve a very useful function. Aside from holding the cups more securely, I think they allow the cups to swivel and contour to your head better. With the pins out and the gimbal rings attached to the cups the empty holes should allow us to easily mark where we want the holes to go.

post #881 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmAndHammer View Post

Are the magnet housings dampened? I had buzzing after increasing the bass through the vent mod. Dampening the magnet cured it.


I haven't damped them, might need to try that with some Fun Tak later. Its weird that its only happening on one side though.

 

I have been thinking about how to secure my new rings to the gimbals as well and right now I am leaning towards using a small finishing nail, possibly cut, to take the place of the original plastic pins. My rings are tight enough to the gimbals that all I really need pins for is the stop the ring from sliding about in the gimbal, there really isn't room to allow rotation unless I do some more sanding.
 

post #882 of 5003

Just for kicks last night I put the stock earpads back on my modded SR60 to see what it would sound like, and its pretty sweet, nice tight bass, extended highs but not fatiguing-they weren't fatiguing with the large ones either, but the bass became much more prominent but not over done. I love options!!!

post #883 of 5003

About to knock out the plastic grills on My 60's. I got them used and had one question before I take them apart again. Is the red/blue wire pair for the left channel and white/blue for the right side. That's the way they are now. 

 

 

Thanks

 


 

post #884 of 5003

Yeah I was a bit hasty and pushed them out into the garbage, should have thought of keeping them..lol
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post



Quote:

Originally Posted by KimChee:

View Post

 Thinking about possibly gluing the forks to cups I pushed the pins out so they would fit, now they slide a bit..any thoughts? 


I took my pins out and set them aside for the moment but I think the pins actually serve a very useful function. Aside from holding the cups more securely, I think they allow the cups to swivel and contour to your head better. With the pins out and the gimbal rings attached to the cups the empty holes should allow us to easily mark where we want the holes to go.

post #885 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

I seem to have a small rattle in my right cup during music with lots of bass. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? It doesn't seem to be hair, I have tried blowing in it with no effect, I am just hoping its nothing major. Its weird because it seems fairly intermittent, doesn't appear to be happening all the time.


I've had that before.  Here are some possible causes, depending on your situation:

 

1.  Hair or dust on the driver, which you've ruled out.  The older the headphones, the more likely this is.  I blow on the drivers to dust them without making contact.

 

2.  A wrinkle/crinkle in the Mylar.  This can happen for any number of reasons, including an odd gust of wind or a particularly bassy track.  There are various ways to reset the diaphragm, including light suction on the front (mouth-to-mouth), blowing through the back or opening the driver up and applying the tape method.  In all three cases, care should be taken to avoid pulling out the voice coil.  The diaphragm, while flimsy, is surprisingly resilient but it crinkles easily.  Unlike the DT770s, whose drivers are covered in a rubbery substance, the Grado drivers are vulnerable to heavy bass.

 

3.  Failure to damp.  When you open up the driver, using what Nickchen is now calling the "punch hole" method, everything becomes more dynamic.  This means that the center of the driver is going hammered with back waves more than ever before.  If you don't damp the back plate, you end up with the same kind of buzzing (though at a smaller form factor) than a car door when you're driving heavy bass through it.  Damping not only attacks buzzing; it cleans up the HF response noticeably.  I love it because it revealed details I'd not heard from any Grado, including the expensive big cans that are supposed to be fully damped.  On The Cars' "Let's Go," I heard such amazing artifacts in the rhythm and texture of the song, I could barely contain myself.

 

4. Incomplete securing of the driver.  Often, while still in the process of making improvements - where the hood was still up, so to speak - I've secured my drivers but not completely.  During such times, I've heard my share of buzzing, which went away once I anchored and sealed everything in properly.

 

5. Cone breakup.  The reason the HD800 went with a center-less design was to avoid cone breakup, which is a problem with Mylar diaphragms.  While I am thrilled with Mylar's success as a replacement for the old stiff-paper drivers, I agree with the assessment that Mylar was used for reasons related to cost.  I would like, at some time in the not-too-distant future, to start constructing a driver made of something other than Mylar.  Such a driver may cost more than a few dollars per driver, but would definitely be worth it.  Unless one goes the way of beyerdynamic, in globbing up the diaphragm with a resilient goo that resists cone breakup, CBU will always be a problem with Mylar.  What I've said about plastic, as not being the tonally optimal material for an air chamber, is also true of plastic film as a speaker material.  I'm not convinced that plastic film is the best we can do - whether it's in getting the most resilient low bass or in capturing the clearest, most detailed, highs.  I honestly think that some of what we're being handed as treble is not really as good as that of a first-class full-size tweeter.  And for all of the hype surrounding the "revolutionary" drivers in the HD800 and the T1, I'm just not seeing - or hearing - it.  Don't get me wrong; these are great headphones.  I'm just not married to Mylar as the future of HeadFi.

 

To be a tad funereal about it, there IS a glass ceiling, an upper limit that presents itself at some point.  I've been told the ceiling is imposed by the SR60's limitations, but I think the problem is bigger than the SR60s.  I've had the best in-production Grados available - including the RS1, the GS1000, the PS1000 and the HF2 - and the problem remains.  These Grado drivers can only go so low (not much lower than 100 Hz) and the bigger you go, the more you push the cone breakup threshold.  That's why Joseph Grado, the one who actually worked for Marantz, the one who put this company on the map, never took the Grados beyond a certain point.  He sold the classic PS1, which now sells on the used market for $3,000 (if you're lucky enough to find a seller who's willing to sell).  The PS1 used aluminum (which has a very dynamic velocity of sound) and flats.  Uncle Joseph knew his limitations.  He knew that you couldn't push these drivers beyond a certain point - so he used a housing material that would amplify well and he stuck with pads that kept the ears glued to the drivers.  The flats mute HF but make the most of any available bass.  They narrowed the soundstage but made it easier to get the most of these drivers at a relatively low volume.

 

The bigger you make the housing and pads, the more you have to adjust for the changes.  Bigger cans promise more soundstage but need more bass energy to stay up with all of that spaciousness.  Bass either gets pushed or comes off as anemic.  The problem is that the harder you punch the bass, the more you're testing the resilience of the drivers.  At some point, you're going to hit a stresspoint where the drivers simply aren't going to be able to deliver as well.  Cone breakup will enter the picture.

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