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SR60-Mod - Page 57  

post #841 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Yeah I got these suckers done for now.

 

Using 1" thick oak with a 2" inner hole and 2.5" outer hole. They are a simple slip on cup, but for now, this is all I really am interested in.

 

Lets say these are in the "proof of concept phase". Got them together and am really happy with them. The biggest problem was that the oak really dulled my blades I think. After 3 cuts though, I have two nearly perfectly symmetrical cups. I need some grills to get these guys done and will likely be staining them tomorrow to see how things come together. Going to hit some more stores tomorrow to try to find cheap letter trays to cannibalize, if not I need to suck it up and pay the $8 for one from Staples or Office Depot. Considering how many of the tools I had, I am still under $20 in costs for these which makes me happy.

 

If I feel industrious later, I might take some pics of these unfinished messes.

 

Way to go!  You've crossed a threshold.  There's no going back.

post #842 of 5003

Well here's what I am working with for now.

 

Next up is finding some grills tomorrow. And I am likely going to stain them tomorrow. I also want to figure out how to best attach the cups to the gimbals so they aren't just floating around like they are now.

 

EDIT: Can't get the pics to upload tonight. For some reason Head-Fi is erring on me and I can't get my code from Imageshack to post. Oh well.

 

Listening to some Dream Theater and they sound really good. Really really good. I think Bila is right and this is just going to be the beginning.

post #843 of 5003

My G cush pads arrived and I stuck them on the HF2 for a bit. Comfort wise they were awesome, sound wise I think I like the bowls better. Attached them to the 60's for a bit too. Not sure how to evalute that pairing yet. My listening experience at the moment is limited to holding the drivers to my ears. I sort of attached the wood cups I received and they sound warmer. I'm hoping  Tuesday I will have the time and the tools to cut a little notch for the wire. I'm holding off until then to remove the grill cloth and liberate the drivers. Still waiting on a C clamp from Grado too. I Spoke with somebody at Grado and they said would send one out gradis. Crossing my figures and hoping it comes. I tried to get Todd to send me one with the pads but he didnt have any. Soon...very...very soon I hope.

post #844 of 5003

I'd like to have a go with woodies, if not just for unliberated drivers. If any of you skilled modders have an extra pair lying around drop a line :)

 

At first I was very excited with going all the way with these mods but a reality check reminds me I don't have any tools or skills to build these. And I'm pretty sure a recable would be no more than a health hazzard for the drivers... and me probably. Bila's awsome instructional videos made me scared lol.

 

If I manage the woodies all go for the mods up until the recable/driver liberation mode. At least for a while... maybe a recable later... best thread in a long while and making me come back to these boards again after getting my Stax gear.

post #845 of 5003

OK... here is the current status the DIY upgrades to my SR125i cans: When I opened 4 holes in the back of the drivers, I REALLY opened those holes. I did not just "poke" a hole with a BIC pen, but rather rolled the pen around enough to COMPLETELY open the hole. To me, the mid-base/lower-mids were just too boomy and I was loosing details in that region. Sure it had greater bass SLAM, but I did not enjoy the overall muddy sound. So last night, I cut very small (3/16" square) pieces of a clear band-aid. I used the part that sticks to your skin, not the padded part that covers a wound. This is a very thin material. Naturally, the base tightened up but also diminished. Actually they sounded really good. Then I noticed that when I pushed in (toward my head) on the bottom of the cans, I had more (but still tight) bass. Not a huge difference but noticeable and pleasant. I then realized that the ear pads were actually not pressing equally on the top and bottom of my ears. They were pressing slightly harder on the upper part of my ear. So I adjusted the headband by bending it slightly to get equal pressure on the upper and lower parts of my ears. That did the trick. Now I have no idea if there is a sound difference between the original material over those driver holes and my extremely thin plastic "band-aid" material. After listening for a while, I will next try to SLIGHTLY" increase bass response, by using a needle. I’ll make one TINY pin hole in each of my "band-aid" covers on those 4 hoses. Are we having fun yet?

post #846 of 5003

My DIY pads

 

photo.JPG


Edited by burnliff - 2/7/11 at 4:00pm
post #847 of 5003
Cut that straight, roll it down over the band and glue it and they'd actually look pretty darn good.
post #848 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by maverickronin View Post

Grados are actually the easiest cans to mod that I know of.  Its because they are held together so simply.  There are no tiny clips to break, no screw heads to ream out, no screw holes to strip, no stupidly tight tolerances, and no delicate sub-assemblies.  They're all held together with friction and hot glue.  Most anything short of completely removing the driver is very unlikely to cause any permanent damage, and even that's not too hard.



My experience has been difficult. The two Grados I've tried opening up were held together by crazy glue. I had to use some acetone which actually wound up softening the plastic (note to self: use some nail polish remover or something gentler than acetone next time). On the other hand, my friend was able to open up his with just his bare hands; didn't even have to heat them up.

post #849 of 5003

The ones I've had just needed a light steaming.

post #850 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by BlazerHead View Post

OK... here is the current status the DIY upgrades to my SR125i cans: When I opened 4 holes in the back of the drivers, I REALLY opened those holes. I did not just "poke" a hole with a BIC pen, but rather rolled the pen around enough to COMPLETELY open the hole. To me, the mid-base/lower-mids were just too boomy and I was loosing details in that region. Sure it had greater bass SLAM, but I did not enjoy the overall muddy sound. So last night, I cut very small (3/16" square) pieces of a clear band-aid. I used the part that sticks to your skin, not the padded part that covers a wound. This is a very thin material. Naturally, the base tightened up but also diminished. Actually they sounded really good. Then I noticed that when I pushed in (toward my head) on the bottom of the cans, I had more (but still tight) bass. Not a huge difference but noticeable and pleasant. I then realized that the ear pads were actually not pressing equally on the top and bottom of my ears. They were pressing slightly harder on the upper part of my ear. So I adjusted the headband by bending it slightly to get equal pressure on the upper and lower parts of my ears. That did the trick. Now I have no idea if there is a sound difference between the original material over those driver holes and my extremely thin plastic "band-aid" material. After listening for a while, I will next try to SLIGHTLY" increase bass response, by using a needle. I’ll make one TINY pin hole in each of my "band-aid" covers on those 4 hoses. Are we having fun yet?


Good job.  Trust your ears.  If something sounds wrong, change it, not your thinking.  Sometimes, however, a single change is not enough.  Grado keeps these holes covered for a reason: Improvements in one part of the system tend to draw attention to deficits in another part.  It's the lack of bass that made flats and comfies preferable with plastic Grados. Once you solve the bass problem, you end up with a new set of challenges.  First, the bass may be too prominent for comfies, which is actually a blessing disguise.  With more bass, you have the luxury of adjusting ear/driver distance to give yourself more soundstage.  You don't have to have your ear pressed up against the grill to actually get decent bass.  But the quality of that bass comes into question.  But why is the bass boomy, indicating not just an increase in bass but an increase in mid-bass?  Why would the frequency of the bass climb higher in the register now that the driver is playing to a larger chamber rather than the space between the diaphragm and the felt?  Take a look at a loudspeaker - whether we're talking about a woofer or a wide-frequency driver.  The diaphragm is not generally cut off from the speaker compartment.  The only real reason to do this with the cheaper Grados is to avoid bumping into the sonic weaknesses of plastic housing.  Plastic is to a rear chamber what nagahyde is to cushions.  

 

If venting didn't work, Grado wouldn't use it on its most expensive cans - the RS1, the GS1000 and the PS1000.  But you won't find it on the plastic Grados for obvious reasons.  The moment you vent them, you have to deal with the limitations of plastic housing.  A vented plastic Grado is a commercial for either aluminum or wood.

 

As for opening those holes, I've recently stumbled upon a follow-up measure to the ball point pen.  Believe it or not, the ordinary mini plug is the perfect tool for reaming those holes, as long as you don't push the plug in past the first of its three rings.  If you pushed it all the way through, you'd go right through the diaphragm (bad move), but keeping within the first ring, you'll be able to widen the hole to create a very clean vent.

post #851 of 5003

I got my test Grados a few days ago, and within 30 minutes had them open, vented,quarter modded pads (silver dollar modded now), and took the white loin cloth off.  The steam method worked perfectly, I watched the video and left the cups in some steamy water for a minute exactly and they came apart with no need to use any brute force.  Compare this to the time I busted through the plastic screen and scraped the glue off from with a small screwdriver-which took about an hour.  I tried the spoon method in the past on a different set, and ended up slightly damaging the cup.  

 

I damped the cups with adhesive foam and felt pads which took away the HF too much for my tastes-I like me some sparkly treble.  I think I am going to use some of the dynamat that was offered a couple of pages back instead.  I've used dynamat before and it was great at completely eliminating road/outside noise, and creating a good environment for music, but it is extremely heavy.  The Xtreme is supposed to be better and not as heavy, but I've never used it before.  Other options might be B-quiet, Brown Bread, fatmat,etc.  These are most of the options, I've ever seen in the car audio world..

I've heard of people using some of the roofing stuff at Lowes but I can imagine it stinks like asphalt, though there are a couple alternatives that are butyl based. 

 

I used extreme restraint and only punched 4 holes, and to me that is plenty as I mostly listen to rock, I can't imagine the bass with all 10 holes punched-wow.  I've got some cocobolo cups on the way, and I think that will do it for a while.  I've had a lot of fun doing this so far, and I'm eyeing some spare cable and a neutrik plug I have on my computer desk, and got a few templates cut out for a headband replacement.  

 

I like the idea of recabling, but I was wondering what people are doing for the strain relief for the cables that come outside the cup?  I am a fan of silver cable, I have the Null Audio Enyo Cable for my triple fi 10, and I think it makes a big difference.  Also I saw this on Ebay a couple of days, I tried to email the seller to see if it was silver, but got no response, what do you guys think of chopping the ends off this and soldering it.  It looks relatively cheap...I probably won't end up doing either the headband or any recabling, but just a thought..

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Crystal-Upgrade-Cable-Ultimate-ears-/270593811024?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3f00a5e250

 

Mods so far:

 

-loin cloth removed

-quarter modded pads

-4 hole punch/vent

-dynamat

-cocobolo cups

 

Future upgrades:

-Recabling

-leather headband

 

thanks Bill for all the experimenting, it's appreciated by guys who don't want to do it first etysmile.gif

 

post #852 of 5003

I read a post on another forum where the guy recabled his and took those zip ties and pulled them real tight and snipped them placing the tie right behind the cup opening to hold the cord from being pulled out...follow me, I thought it was brilliant!!!!

post #853 of 5003

Agreed. Wholeheartedly. After doing all these wonderful mods, I can confidently say that it is such a pleasure listening to my 325is now with jumbo pads. Prior to this, I hated how the 325is sounded like with the jumbos up to point that I almost bashed my head on the wall for buying them. I almost even put those up on eBay...fortunately, I stumbled on Bill's mod page (this wonderful thread) and that changed everything.

 

I tried going back to bowls but didn't enjoy the bass with it (and I am guessing it's a proximity issue) but I ain't gonna b**ch about it. Somehow the jumbos just bring out the best from vented (and properly dampened) Grados. There's no turning back now...

post #854 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by KimChee View Post

I got my test Grados a few days ago, and within 30 minutes had them open, vented,quarter modded pads (silver dollar modded now), and took the white loin cloth off.  The steam method worked perfectly, I watched the video and left the cups in some steamy water for a minute exactly and they came apart with no need to use any brute force.  Compare this to the time I busted through the plastic screen and scraped the glue off from with a small screwdriver-which took about an hour.  I tried the spoon method in the past on a different set, and ended up slightly damaging the cup.  

 

I damped the cups with adhesive foam and felt pads which took away the HF too much for my tastes-I like me some sparkly treble.  I think I am going to use some of the dynamat that was offered a couple of pages back instead.  I've used dynamat before and it was great at completely eliminating road/outside noise, and creating a good environment for music, but it is extremely heavy.  The Xtreme is supposed to be better and not as heavy, but I've never used it before.  Other options might be B-quiet, Brown Bread, fatmat,etc.  These are most of the options, I've ever seen in the car audio world..

I've heard of people using some of the roofing stuff at Lowes but I can imagine it stinks like asphalt, though there are a couple alternatives that are butyl based. 

 

I used extreme restraint and only punched 4 holes, and to me that is plenty as I mostly listen to rock, I can't imagine the bass with all 10 holes punched-wow.  I've got some cocobolo cups on the way, and I think that will do it for a while.  I've had a lot of fun doing this so far, and I'm eyeing some spare cable and a neutrik plug I have on my computer desk, and got a few templates cut out for a headband replacement.  

 

I like the idea of recabling, but I was wondering what people are doing for the strain relief for the cables that come outside the cup?  I am a fan of silver cable, I have the Null Audio Enyo Cable for my triple fi 10, and I think it makes a big difference.  Also I saw this on Ebay a couple of days, I tried to email the seller to see if it was silver, but got no response, what do you guys think of chopping the ends off this and soldering it.  It looks relatively cheap...I probably won't end up doing either the headband or any recabling, but just a thought..

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Crystal-Upgrade-Cable-Ultimate-ears-/270593811024?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3f00a5e250

 

Mods so far:

 

-loin cloth removed

-quarter modded pads

-4 hole punch/vent

-dynamat

-cocobolo cups

 

Future upgrades:

-Recabling

-leather headband

 

thanks Bill for all the experimenting, it's appreciated by guys who don't want to do it first etysmile.gif

 


KimChee, thanks for the kind words.  Your experience with the foam is similar to my own.  When I tried foam of various types, as well as adhesive felt, I lost a lot of play.  The only damping I use now is Dynamat on the magnet backplate.  Whatever you use, it has more to do with absorbing the shock of the material it covers than cushioning in-chamber resonance.  What you're essentially damping is the center of the driver, by way of the magnet plate.  Compared to the amount of vibration channeling through the back of the magnet, everything else is small potatoes.

 

You asked about strain relief.  My first solution was SuperGlue.  I would dab it onto the hole the cable attaches through, so the cable would stick to it.  In a good yank, the cable would remain stuck onto the wall of that hole.  It would take a pretty strong yank to pop it loose and a second evil yank after that to endanger the driver.  I have since moved to a slightly different common-sense approach: Before I solder the cable in, I create a knot bigger than the hole, so even if I get a second evil yank, breaking the bond of the SuperGlue, it's impossible to yank the cable through the hole.

 

You also asked for comments about the cable.  You'll probably get a lot of suggestions, so I'll make mine brief.  The cable you're looking at was made for IEMs.  It's using standard copper cable of a very high gauge (small diameter).  This adds to the impedance of the cable, but it's considered a workable tradeoff with IEMs because they don't need as much power - and wearing them from the ears puts a premium on lighter cable, with less "microphonics."  I would not use this type of cable with a full-size headphone.  You really want a lower gauge (greater thickness) of the conductor, in order to lower the impedance, which is also important to getting full bass.

post #855 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

I read a post on another forum where the guy recabled his and took those zip ties and pulled them real tight and snipped them placing the tie right behind the cup opening to hold the cord from being pulled out...follow me, I thought it was brilliant!!!!


This is how the strain relief in my (stock) MS-1s is worked in. When I trialed some SR-80is I remembered it being different, possibly just glue. Does this mean it's a Grado-approved method? (read: the cheapest solution available)

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