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SR60-Mod - Page 55  

post #811 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

No love for the brass screen?? What looks best with Coccobollo Black??? Silver? Orange-I'm thinking Orange, I like Orange....LOL.

I got my Musical Paradise MP-301 today and its rocking some Grado's, JBL's, fun stuff...


Let me see the brass and I'll let you know... I think it could look alright, but depending on how the cocobolo actually looks (darkness and color), it might look like cheesy gold and make them look kinda cheap. But orange on really dark cocobolo could look pretty nice. I like orange and black so orange and really dark brown would probably look really good (to me biggrin.gif)

 

post #812 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Photo on 2010-12-24 at 13.10.jpg


Photo on 2010-12-24 at 13.11 #2.jpg

 


 

Photo on 2010-12-24 at 13.24.jpg

 



Also, sorry to quote pictures, but what size hole saws were used to cut these rings? I would like to replicate these if possible. And I am assuming this was done with 1" thick wood? Thanks again.

post #813 of 5003

When I formally am Coccobollo-ed and see it in person, I'll determine color...I could see Brass not looking good, if its too bright it would look cheesy. Orange is my favorite color...could spry paint some screen if thats the way I decide to go...OH and did I say this is friggin fun....

 I busted up my plastic screens last night and the cans sound better now....LOL, no buttons, big hole in center....I got an idea........Orange Screen with hole in the center outlined in Black somehow...could be the ticket...

post #814 of 5003

I need the saw sizes from the master. Harbor freight has several 5 or 10 piece hole saw sets for less than $10 that have 2" and 2.5" hole saws. I am hoping that's what the cups above were made with.

 

Hopefully some letter tray screens will look better than my current holes.

post #815 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Photo on 2010-12-24 at 13.10.jpg


Photo on 2010-12-24 at 13.11 #2.jpg

 


 

Photo on 2010-12-24 at 13.24.jpg

 



Also, sorry to quote pictures, but what size hole saws were used to cut these rings? I would like to replicate these if possible. And I am assuming this was done with 1" thick wood? Thanks again.


You'll need two hole saws per shell and there are two shells involved here.  A better woodworker would be able to make everything just slide together the way David Copperfield makes the Statue of Liberty disappear.  My mileage tends to vary a bit from that exalted standard.

 

For the forward shells, the wooden version of the plastic inners, go with either 1 3/4 or 1 7/8.  If you go with 1 3/4, you'll need a dremel to hollow out a little more space for the driver.  If you go with 1 7/8, you'll need to shim it in.  Unfortunately, the sweet spot is somewhere between these two.  That will give you an inner hole, but you don't want to start with an "inner hole."  You need to start with the outer hole, representing the outer wall of this ring.  

 

The softer the wood, the more perilous it is to have thin walls.  When I worked with poplar, thin walls simply had no lifespan.  I added thickness, even if it meant going wider in the end.  With harder words, you have the ability to stay thin without compromising structural integrity.

 

For the outer wells of this first shell, you can go as thin as 2" (if your first cut was 1 3/4) or 2 1/8 (if your cut was 1 7/8).  I tend to cut 1 7/8 to 2 1/8.  This puts me slightly at odds with Grado specs.  A 40mm driver is slightly larger than 1 1/2 but slightly smaller than 1 3/4.  Because there's a metal ring that circles the driver, you have to factor that part in.  I haven't been super successful in getting a good fit with 1 3/4 but with a little bit of dremel work, it could be done and you could be in synch with Grado.

 

(In the spirit of full disclosure, I've debated about this fit question for some time now.  It's easier to not have to dremel out the first-stage ring but I wonder if I'm losing some bass energy by relying on shims, whose softness - relative to the wood - may weaken or damp the transmission of that energy to the shell.)

 

For the second-stage shells, I tend to cut 2" (for the inner hole) and 2 5/8" (for the outer wall).  This is again about 1/2" off of Grado specs.  Measuring the inner ring of the SR325, I noticed it to most closely fit 2 3/8".  My wider dimensions put me at odds with the C clamps, at least with the idea of suspending the second shell on pins within them.  I tend to pop out the pins and just let the C clamps hold the shell like Sammy Sosa gripping a corked bat.  Because of the value many Grado fans place on suspending the shell between two pins, I may end up revising my cutting specs, at least when modding headphones for friends.

post #816 of 5003

I'm still confused about the two shells. Right now my Grado's have two pieces, the piece that surrounds the driver and the piece that contains the grille. The piece that has the grill slips over the other piece to a certain point and that's that. My confusion is based on the fact that in the first two pictures above, it appears you have a 1" deep ring just slipped over the driver housing, which is what my intention is. Apparently I am missing something.

 

Simply put, my goal now is to mimic the piece with the grill as much as possible out of a more common wood. I am not even sure I am going to be able to find mahoganey so I will be looking for as hard a wood as possible. My biggest worry is being able to find hole saws in dimensions other than 1/2" increments.

 

Sorry for being a PITA, I am just trying to figure this out as closely as possible.

post #817 of 5003

Bill...what do you do with the waste?? You could make wood buttons? Do the rod tips, but thats probably a pain in the ass.....very interesting...

post #818 of 5003
Thread Starter 

LEATHER HEADBANDS

 

Photo on 2011-01-16 at 01.47 #2.jpg

Photo on 2011-01-16 at 01.47 #3.jpg

Photo on 2011-01-16 at 01.48.jpg

Photo on 2011-01-16 at 01.48 #2.jpg

post #819 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

I'm still confused about the two shells. Right now my Grado's have two pieces, the piece that surrounds the driver and the piece that contains the grille. The piece that has the grill slips over the other piece to a certain point and that's that. My confusion is based on the fact that in the first two pictures above, it appears you have a 1" deep ring just slipped over the driver housing, which is what my intention is. Apparently I am missing something.

 

Simply put, my goal now is to mimic the piece with the grill as much as possible out of a more common wood. I am not even sure I am going to be able to find mahoganey so I will be looking for as hard a wood as possible. My biggest worry is being able to find hole saws in dimensions other than 1/2" increments.

 

Sorry for being a PITA, I am just trying to figure this out as closely as possible.


If you look closely at the last two pictures, there's a plastic inner ring with a slip-on shell (the one covering the rear grill).  To make that shell, I used two drill saws at 2" and 2 5/8".  

 

Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Bill...what do you do with the waste?? You could make wood buttons? Do the rod tips, but thats probably a pain in the ass.....very interesting...


My goal is to do just that.  There's no reason a Grado mod couldn't include a wood replacement for the gimbal holder, the rod tops and maybe a few other cool spots, like the y splitter and the plug.

post #820 of 5003

What would you think of an iGrado based build? As mentioned earlier in this thread it should be easy enough to extract the drivers from those. Of course rest of the parts would have to be fabricated. With the exception of headband and pads those should be fairly straightforward in case you are going for a "woody" build. It ought to be easy to get pads (HD414, Grado cushions work). It's the headband I'm worried about. Any idea how to deal with that?

post #821 of 5003
Nice headbands may input in a request for crocodile as an option?
post #822 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by KimChee View Post

Nice headbands may input in a request for crocodile as an option?


This is a leather print, but as a guy in Florida, I happen to know that gator is available.

 

Photo on 2011-01-16 at 08.01 #2.jpg

 

This is what's cool about Grados.  They are almost infinitely moddable.  What other headphone brand has as many people figuring out ways to take those cans to the next level?  With the exception of that Headfier who decided to carbon fiber his HD800, I don't remember the last time I've seen a Sennheiser fanatic doing much of anything to their headphone.  It's not because Sennheisers are perfect.  It's because Sennheiser fans don't touch their headphones, except to put them on and take them off.  There's no pad swapping.  There's no woodification.  There's no damping of driver backs or headband reinvention.  Over at Team Sennheiser, a recabling is the ultimate upgrade; at Team Grado, it's foreplay.

post #823 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 


Originally Posted by bebraw View Post

What would you think of an iGrado based build? As mentioned earlier in this thread it should be easy enough to extract the drivers from those. Of course rest of the parts would have to be fabricated. With the exception of headband and pads those should be fairly straightforward in case you are going for a "woody" build. It ought to be easy to get pads (HD414, Grado cushions work). It's the headband I'm worried about. Any idea how to deal with that?


I think it's the least expensive way to get Grado drivers brand new.  You'd have to build a headband, but it's totally doable.  In fact, I can see this as a future photo essay.  The key to success here is getting your hands on a material for a wire headband, such as this galvanized steel wire.

 

flat steel wire.jpg

post #824 of 5003

Bill is right, I have seen nothing anywhere about other folks going nuts like we do with our Grado's...very cool stuff. I have a new setup and last night while enjoying it I put on my trusty Ultrasones to hear really good headphones and took them off immediately-the modded Grado's absolutely smoke the Ultrasones I have (Hfi-700 Alienware Ozma).I am so "all in" with these mods....I found bronze mesh somewhere, stainless mesh, plutonium mesh--LOL..........

 Thank you guys for getting me into this...I needed a lift..dt880smile.png

post #825 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

I don't remember the last time I've seen a Sennheiser fanatic doing much of anything to their headphone.  It's not because Sennheisers are perfect.  It's because Sennheiser fans don't touch their headphones, except to put them on and take them off.  There's no pad swapping.  There's no woodification.  There's no damping of driver backs or headband reinvention.  Over at Team Sennheiser, a recabling is the ultimate upgrade..


I disagree. http://apuresound.com/hdsennmod.html

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